there is a product called "pebble tec" that is great. better than both products you mentioned. it is a little more expensive, but looks and lasts much better. other wise i would stay with plaster. from what i understand it adhears better to the gunite.
Marbelite is the most common. Made up of crushed marble dust and white cement, the mixture is 2 parts marble dust and one part white cement
Gunite is covered with plaster. It is sprayed on concrete sorta. They mix it in the hoses and it is blown on. You can go to youtube and see them gunite a pool. I am only aware of plaster, vinyl or painted pool surfaces. The vinyl is just like thin rubber.
No, because gunite will not dry if it is constantly being mixed with water. Drain your pool first.
I general, the answer is yes. It the crack comes from the pool moving, and the gunite has cracked, then the gunite has to be repaired before the plaster. Sometimes opening up the gunite crack and refilling with concrete will answer the problem. If movement of the soil is the problem then that has to be fixed first.The soil getting excessivly wet and dry can mean that the pool will move, if it is only part of the pool then there will be a structuaral crack. Only opening up the crack will tell you whether it is a plaster crack or a gunite crack. A replaster is from about $2000 up and structuaral repairs from about $1000
By Gunite I assume that you were told you have a gunite pool, The gunite part is the foundation of the pool and does not require watering. The surface which is plaster over the top of the gunite needs water. If you just had your pool replastered in the last couple of days it is critical to fill it with water so the plaster can dry. If your plaster is older and been under water before a few days is not going to hurt. Although you do want to get it full of water as soon as possible. Kenny Kummer Brody Chemical
It is know to be concrete, gunite or shotcrete.
Hum, not sure if you can actually plaster a fiberglass pool. The glass would have to be removed first. You will have to consult a pool builder, a company that installs fiberglass shells or a company that installs fiberglass in plastered pools - thus converting a gunite/plaster pool into a gunite/fiberglass pool. The later uses the old pool shell as the sub-grade or foundation so to speak. k
I would think if the the crack is present only in the plaster, and not the tile, it may be surface. If, for instance my pool, has a cracked tile and the crack is extended down the side of the plaster, it is structural.
Rebar and or ties exposed in a gunite/shotcrete pool shell is bad but not unrepairable. The exposed steel can rust, and may bleed through the plaster leaving a stain. It may also cause the plaster to delaminate in that area. To remedy the situation the rebar and ties should be cut back or ground out and into the concrete. Hydraulic cement can be used to patch over the areas before the pool is plastered.
The plaster would not adhere to the liner. k
If a pool is left empty, it will lift partially out of the ground due to moisture under the pool after a heavy rain.
The hairline cracks in the Diamond Bright will not cause the pool to leak. You must have got plastered in hot weather and the plaster cured quickly. It is just cosmetic on the surface and not through the entire layer of plaster.
The finish plaster is normally white all the way through. It sounds like you are dealing with a pool that has been replastered by the method of putting a "brown coat"/"scratch coat" (the gray plaster you noted) over the original finish plaster surface, and a new finish coat of white plaster on top of that. The scratch coat more like a thin concrete than plaster (doesn't have the white marble dust in it) and is used to get a better bond to the old surface.