MY 2001 suburban abs light in on and a fan runs when the engine is off?

Answer 1

Your ABS module is the problem. There is a company called Circuit Solutions that can repair it. Below is all the information you need. They fixed mine and it's been working great for over a year. Hope that helps. Steve Brooks

GMC/CHEVY/HONDA/ISUZU ABS PUMP RUNNING AND HAD TO PULL THE FUSE? NOW YOUR EBCM CAN BE REBUILT PERMANENTLY INSTEAD OF COSTLY REPLACEMENT!!

We provide a complete ABS repair and upgrade service with a 5-year warranty for your following ABS modules: GMC or Chevy Silverado, Yukon, Trailblazer, Suburban, Bravada, Sonoma, K2500, Envoy, Sierra, Z71, Tahoe, Blazer, Jimmy, S-10, S-15, Isuzu Rodeo and Amigo, Honda Passport or Opel Frontera equipped with a 1999+ Kelsey Hayes(TM) ABS control module.

Please read our customer feedback. We do not repair, but actually upgrade your EBCM. Each rebuilt EBCM is tested on a computer controlled test fixture to ensure proper functionality before being sent back to the customer. In addition, all history error codes are cleared.

Please note that the top photograph depicts a typical repaired module ready to send back to customer. This auction is not for a physical module, you must send us your defective module so it can be rebuilt. The photograph below showing the module and pump assembly taken apart is to indicate the motor wire corrosion problem (described in the FAQ) as well as present the componentry under the EBCM.

There are no loose parts or fluids to leak out when the EBCM has been removed. Everything is sealed. The good news is you will still be able to safely drive your vehicle with conventional non-ABS brakes while the module is removed and being repaired. Please contact me if you have any questions. Phone numbers listed farther down.

Don't let the lengthy item description of this auction deter you! The EBCM repair process on your part is relatively simple. To encompass the complete scope of all of our customers' questions; the answers are all provided here in text form.

This repair is permanent - definitely exceeding original design expectations. It is not a quick-fix "patch" or other temporary type of repair. The replacement parts selected are significantly better and more costly than the OEM originals to avoid any future recurring problems.

If you experienced a constantly running pump motor and had to pull the fuse, and face orange and red dashboard lights, this repair will solve your problem permanently and save you major money. Your trade in value will immediately increase by $1000.00 after the repair as this is what dealers look for. The pump and manifold are okay, the electronic control module is At Fault and can be properly serviced without costly replacement. The module must be upgraded by ModuleMaster for the permanent solution.

The defective amplifier chip inside the ABS module (also called the EBCM or Electronic Brake Control Module) is replaced with a proprietary device to restore normal and reliable ABS module operation. The EBCM is also upgraded with a high speed voltage suppressor to protect the EBCM and the new amplifier from voltage spikes created by the pump motor.

ABS repair service includes the following work performed on your stock EBCM ABS module:

• Replacement of the single original failed 75 amp pump motor power amplifier with a double duty rated 140 amp (460 amp surge) device.
• Replacement of the original electro-mechanical ABS Module's relay with a more efficient, latest design unit.
• Reflow silver bearing solder of critical power management and control circuitry as a preventive maintenance measure. ABS Module original connections risk failure due to weak solder application at the factory.
• Installation of pump motor voltage suppressor/wave shaper of all ABS Module rebuilds.
• Testing via our proprietary computer-controlled test fixture. The rebuilt EBCM/ABS-Module is put through a battery of tests to verify perfect operation. All history error codes are then cleared.
• Controller housing cleaning and waterproofing during re-assembly. All exposed module hardware is resin coated to prevent further corrosion.
• All terminally damaged/corroded abs module specific hardware is replaced with new.
• Solenoid assemblies are spray coated as required with enamel to stop corrosion.
• Automatic Self-Test during first startup; no diagnostic or programming tools required for setup during installation. Plug it in and go.
• Rebuilt modules use higher capacity parts than original for much greater reliability.
• NO FRUSTRATING DOWNTIME OF YOUR VEHICLE... keep driving while your ABS module is rebuilt at our facility.

All work is guaranteed against unexpected module failure for five years with a full refund of your money or module reservice if our rebuilt EBCM fails again and cannot be rebuilt. If we are not able to resolve the problem, your money will be returned. The higher capacity parts that are installed should eliminate any future headaches with this otherwise very well-designed ABS system. Warranty covers cost of parts and labor or refund.

All EBCM EEPROM data belonging to YOUR VEHICLE stays in the module... because it all came from your vehicle; your module and data inside goes back! No configuration updates and no module matching. There are no risks involving the repaired ABS controller being "rejected" by the engine and drive train computers. This is common with mis-matched units from salvage yards or pre-production test units with the stamped aluminum sheet metal tops instead of die-cast.

Incorrect (look the same outside, but different software) ABS modules typically leave you without ABS and a cranky pickup truck with a host of other problems.

You will have to remove the controller module from the vehicle or have someone do this for you. Many independent brake or mechanic shops will do this work for as little as $40.

You will still be able to drive the vehicle while the module is in for repair. Brakes will operate as conventional non-ABS brakes. Traction control and electronic 4X4 equipped vehicles may lose these specific features during the time the module is removed from the vehicle. ABS performance and safety will not be altered in any manner during the repair process. The safety system is inside of the pump manifold that remains with you.

Once the unit is re-installed in your vehicle, it will perform an extensive self-diagnostic routine at the first engine start, and forward movement between 5-10MPH and then turn off the amber "ABS" and red "brake" lamp. The ABS system in your vehicle will then be completely restored.

• Do I have any options besides paying $700-$1100 for a new EBCM?
• Why is my ABS pump motor running even with the key off?
• My pump is running right now, what should I do?
• Can I still drive my truck when I send my EBCM to ModuleMaster?
• I have the module uninstalled from my vehicle. Where do I send it?
• How long does it take to fix my ABS controller?
• When nearing to a complete stop or pulling into a parking space on dry pavement, my ABS seems to come on unexpectedly and my stopping distance is increased. Is my EBCM bad?
• What are ABS Brakes?
• How does ABS failure affect my car?
• Isn't this a safety issue?
• Shouldn't there be a recall?
• What is the EBCM?
• I bought a used ABS module and now my 4WD has quit working. What is going on!?
• Am I compromising my safety or the safety of my family with a repaired module?
• Why is four-wheel-drive (4WD) disabled when my ABS module is removed?
• Where is the ABS controller located in my 1999-2003 GMC/Chevy truck? My Isuzu? My Honda?
• My ABS quit with both the amber "ABS" and red "BRAKE" lights illuminated. The pump motor never ran continually and the fuse did not have to be pulled. The dealer has informed me that I need to buy a whole new ABS pump/manifold because the pump motor is bad; can it be repaired like the EBCM?
• Do I have to disconnect all of my brake lines to get to the ABS controller?
• Can I bleed the brakes myself? I've been told there is a special procedure.

Do I have any options besides shelling out $700-$1100 for a new EBCM?

YES! The EBCM can be properly repaired in almost all instances of a "pump running constantly" failure mode for much less than a new one. Our repaired modules should outlast new ones.

Why is my ABS pump motor running even with the key off?

The electronic "motor power switch" in the ABS control unit (also called the EBCM - Electronic Brake Control Module) has failed causing the pump to run all of the time. The ABS controller has told it to stop, but the failed switch stays "on" all of the time. The switch is actually a high power semiconductor silicon chip.

My pump is running right now, what should I do?

Shut the pump off as quickly as possible. Don't let it run the battery down. Your pump was not designed to operate any longer than the very brief periods of time required during ABS stops. Burnout of the motor is very rare however.

If You don't feel confident to stop the pump motor or opening the hood is something scary; go to a good mechanic or your local GM dealer.

Disconnect the positive (red) battery terminal first to shut it down. Then locate and pull the ABS pump fuse located in the power distribution center under the hood. Basically you are looking for a fuse box with large amperage fuses and some relays. Look along the fender well in the engine compartment relatively close to the battery. It is a 60 amp fuse in most instances and should be clearly labeled "ABS" in the large fuse box with other similarly oversize fuses used for other high power subsystems Reconnect your battery after pulling the fuse. The motor should no longer be running.

Can I still drive my truck when I send my EBCM to ModuleMaster?

Yes. By the design of the ABS system, all solenoid valves in the ABS brake manifold are in safety "bypass" mode when powered down or when the ABS control module has been removed. You will have standard everyday power brakes no different than brakes built without the ABS system.

After removing the EBCM; I realized that I just gave my brake system a lobotomy! What should I do with the exposed clean metal surfaces to protect them?

You should keep the part of the manifold that the ABS controller once covered as clean as possible. Cover the area with plastic wrapping and tape or similar material. Make a dirt-proof and waterproof "cap" out of Duct Tape. Avoid driving your vehicle on dusty or wet roads if possible. Protect the plug ends of the cables from moisture with electrical tape as well. For those who have electronic four-wheel-drives, 4WD may not function properly until the ABS controller is put back in place and powered up. If you use duct tape, any sticky residue will have to be removed using carburetor cleaner.

I now have the module uninstalled from my vehicle. How should I pack it for its journey?

You need to package the unit carefully as if it were a very expensive computer circuit, modem or graphics card. Wrap the clean dry unit in common cooking aluminum foil (Reynolds Wrap) or silvery ESD pouch to protect it from static electricity during shipping. Wrap the unit with one or two layers of bubble wrap afterwards. Place the unit in a sturdy cardboard box (W7" X L7" X H6") or larger and fill the empty space with packing peanuts. Place your payment, shipping label, and a separate note with your full name, email and postal addresses inside the box and seal the box securely with packing tape.

Payment and Shipping Methods

The best way to handle shipping is to get a return label at the same time you buy your sending label. UPS may require 2nd day shipping or better for this option. Fed Ex you just fill out the form with prepayment or check the "bill payment to recipient" box. Kinko's, Mailboxes etc, UPS Store or your local Fed Ex office will gladly assist you with this. Be sure to include the return label in the package. Do not schedule a "pick up", because the UPS man will be at our door before we even get the module to fix! Just include the return label inside of the box with the broken ABS module.

With USPS Priority mail or Express mail you can include the stamps or simply add the dollar amount to the repair money order.

We strongly recommend insuring the device both ways for at least the $700 replacement cost. Return shipping is provided by you as stamps, a return label or additional money. Typically $14 for USPS priority with the $700 insurance and shipping for a 2 lb EBCM.

Double check the details...

1) properly wrapped, shielded (common aluminum cooking foil or metalized pouch) and bubble wrap padded unit.

2) 3x5 card/paper with your full name, physical address and email address so we can let you know progress. A money order payable to "Circuit Solutions" for the amount of the repair in US Funds; all shipping costs/insurance included or added to the repair Money Order

Send the insured unit to the "Payment Address" listed in this auction or call us toll free 888-892-0764 if you have any questions.

When nearing to a complete stop or pulling into a parking space on dry pavement, my ABS seems to come on unexpectedly and my stopping distance is increased. Is my EBCM bad and causing this problem?

Not necessarily. Based upon customer feedback, the problem is corrosion of the front wheel sensors. Try the following to cure the problem:

You will need to remove the front wheel sensor from the hub. Make sure both sensor and hub are absolutely clean beforehand. This will assure that no dirt will not fall into the hub and bearings when the sensor is removed. A single Allen head bolt is all that holds the sensor in place.

Remove the sensor and plug the hole with a paper towel or clean rag. Then clean all of the rust from the sensor and its mating surface on the hub. Do the same to the hub and its mating surface to the sensor. Use a gasket scraping tool or wire brush to remove all traces of rust; keeping it out of the hole where the sensor goes. Spray the areas with carb cleaner to remove any remaining residue. Be careful not to let carb cleaner flow inside of the hub as it will dilute the bearing grease.

Apparently, rust formation on the cast iron hub pushes the sensor up just a few thousandths of an inch dropping the voltage low enough to cause ABS engagement at low speeds. This may also cause the 4WD service light to come on as well.

Reinstall the cleaned sensor into the cleaned hub and test the system by driving. If it works normally, then spray the hub and sensor with several coats of rubberized undercoating spray to prevent any further corrosion.

How long does it take to fix my ABS controller?

The repair time in our shop is a one day turnaround in most cases. If we get the bad controller on Wednesday, it goes out repaired on Thursday! If unusually busy such as after a Holiday weekend, please anticipate up to a three day turnaround.

What are ABS Brakes?

ABS is short for "Anti-lock Braking System". The ABS is designed to pump the pressure in your braking system to help prevent brake "lock-up" and loss of vehicle control. A skilled driver can perform this with his/her foot on the brake pedal and "pumping" of course; but ABS plays its critical role during panic stops when thinking about braking is the least of concern. The ABS system has a very powerful 16 bit computer that monitors all wheels and pumps the brakes for you so you don't have to. In fact the ABS computer pumps (or modulates) the brake system much faster and efficient than humanly possible.

In the event that the ABS system encounters failure, it is engineered to fail safely by continuing to function like a conventional (non-ABS) brake system. The ABS system notifies the driver of the failure by turning on the (ABS) light. When the ABS light it on you do not have ABS until the system is serviced. Some ABS systems will continue to maintain rear wheel ABS functionality if the system failure affects front wheels only.

How does ABS failure affect my car?

ABS systems in all cars are engineered with human life as the top priority. Every ABS system is an additional part of a conventional hydraulic brake system. It is simply a system "bolted on" the same traditional power braking system you have always used.

The ABS computer (or EBCM) performs self tests constantly when your vehicle is in operation; even when the ABS is not being used. When the ABS light is off, your ABS system is functioning normally. The EBCM is so intelligent, it even knows if the "ABS" lamp is bad and activates another warning lamp.

Isn't this a safety issue?

Yes it can be. It is important to remember to pump your brakes when coming to a stop especially during emergency stops. The ABS system simply does this pumping action for you. Much like power brakes help you push harder than you can normally, ABS helps you pump more effectively than you can normally. This can be a real factor during panic stops or during rain storms. Many people still safely drive cars without ABS Brakes every day.

Shouldn't there be a recall?

On "paper" the specifications of the original semiconductor switch should have worked. However, it appears that the switch may be too small and is overloaded by the powerful pump motor. Manufacturers generally only recall products when there are many cases of complete failure or obvious poor design of a subsystem. This system works very well but it may be getting "over-worked" faster than anticipated.

What is the EBCM?

EBCM is short for "Electronic Brake Control Module" It is the advanced computer than controls the electric motor pump and valves of your ABS system.

I bought a used ABS module, the ABS light is still on and now my 4WD has quit working. What is going on?

You probably have the wrong module for your specific vehicle or the module has the incorrect software version to match your vehicle. Each module is specific to each vehicle; even brand new modules specifically ordered for your vehicle sometime require set up and calibration information to be updated. When you get your module from the wrecking yard, used sales source or even new; there is a risk that the module will not work. The other computers in your truck may recognize the new/used ABS controller as belonging to a differently equipped vehicle and will "reject" it. Repairing your existing EBCM avoids this costly risk completely.

Am I compromising my safety or the safety of my family with a repaired module?

No! Your brake system is not being modified in any way; we just replace the broken switch that turns the ABS pump motor on and off. The electronic module has "superficial control" of your brake system. If the electronic module fails, all control is granted to the mechanical spring loaded valves in the pump/manifold. The pump/manifold stays in your vehicle so you can keep driving it. It is impossible for the bad or malfunctioning EBCM (ABS module) to cause total loss of braking!

The repaired EBCM has a higher quality switch installed which should actually reduce the chance of any unanticipated ABS failures. All EBCMs repaired by Circuit Solutions use high energy switches that are rated to handle nearly 40% more power than the original OEM part.

These are the highest rated switches currently available for this application to ensure trouble free ABS operation in your expensive GMC/Chevy vehicle.

Why is electronic push button four-wheel-drive (4WD) disabled when my ABS module is removed?

The ABS module runs a different anti-skid program when the vehicle is in 4WD. Certain vehicles also use information from the ABS module; such as front and rear wheel speeds to operate the "automatic" 4 wheel feature. If the module is removed or completely powered down, the transfer case control unit will disable itself and 4WD.

Where is the ABS controller located in my 1999-2003 GMC/Chevy truck? My Isuzu? My Honda?

In most GMC and Chevy vehicles the ABS controller/computer (EBCM) is piggybacked with the hydraulic manifold attached to the vehicle frame on the driver's side under the seat. It is outside of the cab in the dirt and elements, not inside. The ABS controller is the black plastic module with the aluminum lid. It is bolted to the top of the aluminum manifold which has the electric motor protruding from the side. You will see that the control module has three (3) wire harnesses plugging into it. One of these three (3) goes directly to the electric motor.

For Isuzu and Honda vehicle owners, the exact same ABS pump/EBCM unit is located in the engine compartment within easy reach. Lucky you!

Photo Diagram of typical EBCM Location in a GMC/Chevy is here. The unit outlined in red is the part you send to us. You will need a Torx T20 driver bit (available at Wal-Mart or hardware store) to remove the computer module.

My ABS quit with both the amber "ABS" and red "BRAKE" lights illuminated.

The pump motor never ran continually and the fuse did not have to be pulled. The dealer has informed me that I need to buy a whole new ABS pump/manifold because the pump motor is bad; can it be repaired like the EBCM?

If you live in a region where roads are salted due to extreme winter climates, then the chances are very high that the wires going to the electric pump motor have corroded. This is fairly common. The motor is still perfectly good, but the wires will have to be resoldered to the terminals on the motor.

The wires will look perfectly good, but underneath the black shrink tubing the copper conductor will have completely transformed into a powdery bright green copper oxide. The remaining intact portion of the wire will have to be cleaned, resoldered, heat shrinked and waterproofed to restore the motor.

DO NOT REMOVE THE TWO BOLTS ATTACHING THE MOTOR TO THE ALUMINUM PUMP MANIFOLD. It takes a special tool to align the internal pump mechanism with the motor shaft. Work on the motor while it is attached to the manifold.

We can perform this repair for you if you desire.

Do I have to disconnect all of my brake lines to get to the ABS controller?

Most people have reported successful removal of the ABS controller without disconnection of the brake lines. However, you may have to disconnect all five (5) hydraulic lines for success if the roads are salted and the Torx T20 bolts are rusted in place. In such circumstance, it is best to remove the entire ABS assembly from the truck for easier removal of the ABS controller by drilling out the bolt heads.

There is very little room to access these four bolts under the truck in such stubborn cases. It is suggested that you disconnect the lines and remove the entire assembly. Take the assembly to a workbench or drill press to drill/grind the heads off of the bolts. If this sounds too ugly and disconnecting the five brake lines will ruin your day; you can instead remove the three hex head bolts attaching the ABS pump/manifold to the vehicle frame and CAREFULLY lower it. You must support the heavy pump assembly so you don't kink the brake lines. Then you will have room to get a small grinder or Dremel Tool to grind the heads off of the evil rusted bolts.

Removal of any of the brake lines will require bleeding of the brakes upon re-installation. Your vehicle is probably overdue for a brake fluid flush anyways. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water) and the water molecules will congregate in the lowest parts of the brake system eventually corroding critical brake components. Modern vehicles should have their brake fluid flushed on a regular basis; so you are providing your vehicle a much needed service in the process of this repair.

Can I bleed the brakes myself? I've been told there is a special procedure.

NOTE: this only applies if brake lines had to be disconnected.

If certain steps are followed, you won't have to mess with the "special procedure" annoyance. The "special bleeding procedure" typically involves a GM technician and his computer sending a set of commands to your ABS controller to open certain valves with the pump running. This is performed to flush out pockets of air trapped within the ABS manifold's labyrinth of orifices and cavities etc. In most cases this is not really necessary. When the pump/manifold is removed from the truck, all of the valves are closed sealing the manifold's "insides" from drawing in air. When you re-install the manifold, make sure the battery is disconnected (assuming repaired ABS controller is in place).

Then bleed the brakes as you would any conventional vehicle. When you are confident all air is out of the lines, connect the vehicle's battery and start the truck but do not roll forward or backward. Make sure that the brake pedal is firm and not spongy. Verify that there are no leaks where the hydraulic lines were re-connected and that the brake pedal keeps it position without slowly dropping to the floor. If all is good, take the vehicle for a low speed test drive. The ABS system will then perform a self check once you are above 5 MPH and the "ABS" and "brake" lamps should go dark. During this test the controller runs the pump motor and operates all of the valves very briefly. If the brake pedal keeps its firm feeling, there is no air in the manifold and you're done! If the pedal begins to feel soft or spongy, park the vehicle and manually bleed the brakes again. Test drive again, park and repeat the bleeding process until brakes are firm. This ABS "self-test" is performed every time you start and drive. It is similar to the "bleeding command" the GM tech performs, but your test drive makes your ABS controller do the same thing in the driveway without the GM tech and his computer. For the following next month you should check the brake lines at the manifold every few days to make sure there is no fluid leakage. At the same time, keep an eye on the brake fluid level in the reservoir for sudden changes. Safety first!

Regardless, you should have your brake fluid flushed every 3 years or 30,000 miles to keep all mechanical parts of your ABS system clean and in perfect working order