Even using a 2x12 the spacing for 20 feet will be less than 12 inches on center. I would recommend splitting the distance with a double beam perpendicular to the joist run. This will allow you to go up to 24 inches on center. Your span will only be ten feet aproximately this way. I would double the beam. (2-2x12 joined together) Good luck.
when building your beam make sure the laps on the beam are at least 6 foot apart and put a good wood glue on the 2x12s plus for added strength put 1/2 inch O.S.B. in between the 2x12 and I would also lag or bolt them together, at about 16 to 24 inches O.S.B. = Oscilating Strand Board.
Not really. All joists will be the same whether you are working on a 1st or second floor, so your floor does not have a bunch of different levels. Usually we use 2 x 12 lumber, doubling joists which have walls above them or decreasing the spacing if you are at the limits of the span. example you have a 22' span in a garage with living area above it, you would use 2 x 12 with 12" on center spacing.
For ceiling joists, the minimum dimension per the IBC is a 2 x 12 inch, with spacing dependent on the load. Ideally, these would be screwed to blocking between the joists.
Depends on which way it runs. They should be spaced every 16 inches on center. Sometimes they are spaced 24 inches. So if they run the 10 foot way, spaced 16 inches there would be between 7 -8.
If you are talking about a house, the attic would be on the third floor as you have a ground floor (first floor), then a second floor (upstairs) and then a third floor (the attic), However if it was a bungalow, it would be on the second floor because bungalow's don't have an upstairs.
You would be putting a permanent floor over a temporary floor & that would not be wise. Might work but if it doesn't you lose it all...
Not really. All joists will be the same whether you are working on a 1st or second floor, so your floor does not have a bunch of different levels. Usually we use 2 x 12 lumber, doubling joists which have walls above them or decreasing the spacing if you are at the limits of the span. example you have a 22' span in a garage with living area above it, you would use 2 x 12 with 12" on center spacing.
For ceiling joists, the minimum dimension per the IBC is a 2 x 12 inch, with spacing dependent on the load. Ideally, these would be screwed to blocking between the joists.
You would either have to remove the ceiling in the kitchen or the floor in the bath, and add additional joists to strengthen them, or possibly add steel in combination with the joists.
answerYou would lay timber floor joists acroos the the size would depend upon how high you need to raise the floor. Then you'd lay floor boards over the joists. the joists would be layed every 400mm and would require noggings to reduce movevement and 'creaking'. The floor boards should be of a tongue and groove type for the same reasons. The cheapest floor bords are made of chipboard and are 8' by 2' and they should be glued.If you wanted to raise it a matter of a few inches then you could just screed over the top of it. If you wanted just a few mm then a self leveling liquid can be applied.
A joist note on a first floor plan would refer to the Joist below that floor, a joist note on the third floor plan woud be for that floor.
If you have access to the underside you can screw another 2 x 6 along side of each existing 2 x 6 to add strength. If you do not have access, you would have to remove the flooring and sub-floor to do this.
The job is difficult, very uncomfortable, strenuous, and time consuming. All the nails attaching sub-floor and hardwood floor to the joist will have to be cut, the joist cut out two at a time, and then new, full-length joists installed in place. Depending on the year the house was built, this can be almost impossible to do as they will have to be position diagonally and then forced perpendicular to the direction of the floor. Once the new joists are positioned and supported on either end, the task of re-attaching the floor to the joists is undertaken. This will have to be done precisely and skillfully from underneath without allowing the fasteners (screws) to puncture through the floor into the living space. Pre-applying construction adhesive to the top of the joists is effective, but adds another difficult step to the installation (all while in the crawl space). I operate in New England and would charge $60.00/hr for the un-pleasure of this job. Of course the size of the room dictates the length of the job, but you could count on $2500.00 in labor plus materials.
I don't understand your question completely, but I think what you are asking is how far apart support can be for a subfloor or floor decking. It will vary with the type of construction, but for residential housing it's almost always 16 inches between the floor joists. That would be measured from the center of the joist to the center of the next joist.
That depends on the sise and the type of timber the floor boards are made of, However standard practice with flooring is 450mm centers or 600mm centers if the boards are thicker to allow for the extra 150 millimeter's
Depends on which way it runs. They should be spaced every 16 inches on center. Sometimes they are spaced 24 inches. So if they run the 10 foot way, spaced 16 inches there would be between 7 -8.
I would use 2 x 6 joists 16" on center and cover them with 3/4 tongue and groove plywood. You can then cover the plywood with wood flooring or carpet.
No Spacing