You can remove a Beetle master cylinder from the car, but it's not really attached to the pedal. The actuator is a rod connected to the pedal that pushes against a diaphragm in the master cylinder... Anyway, here's whatcha do. Start by looking at your brake pedal arm. You'll see the clevis with the brake actuating pin attached. If you're lucky there's a circlip holding it on. Remove the circlip, then the clevis. Or just the clevis, if the previous owner lost the circlip and didn't replace it. (Which, on a car that's thirty to forty years old, happens.) This gives you better access to the two bolts that hold the MC to the firewall. Remove them. Next, crawl under the left front of your car, put a pan under the master cylinder, and remove the brake lines, the brake light switch connectors, and the hoses leading to the reservoir. Once all that's free, the MC just pulls right out.
The one on the master cylinder is the brake light switch. The one on the brake pedal is for the automatic transmission, assuming that the car is automatic.
In a Classic Beetle, it's screwed into the master cylinder. New Beetles will have it in the vicinity of the brake pedal lever.
It's bolted to the firewall on the driver's side, right in front of the brake pedal. The fluid container is in the trunk, and is connected to the master cylinder with a hose.
Remove the clevis pin from the pedal the remove the master cyl from the bulkhead A quick way to test the cylinder is clamp the flexible hose that leads to the slave cylinder when the hose is clamped, the clutch pedal should be solid.
The clutch pedal assembly has a clutch rod that pushes in on a clutch master cylinder. There is a hydro line that goes from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder.
Hello,Here is a simple walk-through on replacing the master cylinder on a '90 CRX:Disconnect the negative battery cable and disable the SRS system (if equipped.) At the top of the clutch pedal, remove the cotter pin and pull the pedal pin out of the yoke.Remove the nuts and bolts holding the clutch master cylinder and remove the cylinder from the engine compartment.Disconnect and plug the hydraulic lines from the master cylinder.Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.
check the master cylinder.
go to one of your bleeder valves ,and drain brake fluid,then remove end ofrod from brake pedal , then remove bolts holding master cylinder on.take off and put new one in.
The fluid is leaking from the master cylinder and running back towad the pedal. Replace the master cylinderanswerchange master cylinder and slave properly then bleed the system properly.
The master clutch cylinder is attached to the clutch pedal. When one depresses the pedal hydraulic fluid is forced from the master cylinder through the hard line to the slave cylinder. The piston in the slave cylinder is driven against the clutch linkage thereby releasing the clutch.
The most common symptom of a master cylinder that has failed is that when you stop and hold your foot on the brake pedal it will slowly fall to the floor. This is called pedal fade and means the seals within the master cylinder are leaking. If you push the brake pedal and it does not return it may be defective. You may also see a leak at the master cylinder.
Remove master cylinder-hopefully there is enough room not to have to disconnect brake lines Remove Brake pedal linkage at brake pedal Remove vacuum line Unbolt and twist vacuum booster to remove