make sure the engine is cold,use anti-seize, don't over tighten
If you're talking about accessibility, you may find it easier to jack up the truck, remove the front tire and access some of the plugs from under the fender.
From "Old Dan":
The instructions below are great, and the advice above is good. I'd like to add a couple of points. First, after you have blown the crud out of the plug wells, loosen the plugs about 1/8th turn, then squirt some good penetrant (PB Blaster or, if you can find it, Chemsearch "Yield") in the well and allow it to soak in for a few minutes before trying to remove the plugs the rest of the way. Also, remember that the anti-seize used on the new plugs should be nickel-based, NOT copper or aluminum, and only a light film on the threads, making sure not to get any on the electrodes.
How to Change Spark Plugs on 4.6 & 5.4 Liter
By Dave West
I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4Ls now (the 4.6L with plug wires is similar) and once you've done a set they really are not as bad as they look. Contrary to what some people will say, you don't have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil on Plug (COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail. I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the radiator support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my tummy. It makes the job way less painful.
Start by removing the cover over the throttle body (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it; disconnect the connector on the AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body. Next remove the brace from the Power Steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on. Now you should be able to see the COPs.
To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nut driver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above. If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out.
After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Don't be surprised if there is rust and junk in them. Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you is good.
On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet. The plugs are way down in the hole which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall.
Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the radiator support....usually .052-.056". Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Cross threaded plug threads are no fun! The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet. Don't over tighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. After that just put everything back together in reverse order. Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them.
I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it takes a few hours.
#1 thing one wire at a time twist the plug boots one full round before pulling off
1. Make sure the spark plugs are connected in the proper order. 2. Make sure all plug wires are tight to the distributor and plugs. 3. Inspect cap and rotor for damage or wear.
It depends on the plugs you use. I use Bosch Platinum tips and can go 60K easily with no degraded performance. I keep a high maintenance on my car so I might be pushing the envelope. If you have lower grade plugs or the plugs that came with the car, I would recommend changing them.
Finger Tips was created on 2001-09-03.
Be sure to review the "Related Questions" below for lots of tips on changing the spark plugs on a Taurus - Sable.Although mostly written to the 1996-2000 or so engines - the majority still applies to 2002.
There are many ways to changing in a locker room. The most recommended tips are to use towels to cover oneself and to change in a more secluded part of the room.
Jim Grant's Tech Tips `02 Kia Sportage, Where Are The Spark Plugs? Q: I own a
The cast of D.A.R.E. Safety Tips Starring Retro Bill - 2001 includes: Robert Romanus as Stranger in car
Some tips to avoid car crashes are: Pay attention, check blind spots before changing lanes, look both ways before entering an intersection, signal before changing lanes, adhere to speed limits.
Yes, and the gap is .051, set at the factory. DO NOT GAP THEM OR YOU WILL RUIN THE PLATINUM COATING ON THE TIPS!
q-tips fingers head set wash cloth ear plugs pencil
Spark plugs were changed at about 10,000 mile intervals. The arrival of plugs made with special metals such as platignum tips, or irridium, has extended the interval to as much as 60,000 miles. You need to check which type of plugs are fitted to any car, as standard plugs could have been used instead of the longer life ones. The handbook will usually recommend which type to use.