Your daytime running lights (DRL) are on.
lignt browon
Yes, the 3DS/2DS is backwards compatible and can play DS and DSi games.
Traction control. Take the car to the dealer and have them fix it. There may be a technical bulletin for this problem-ask them about it. It could be parking brake not compleatly released....or...Wheel sensor,most likely one on the rear.Get one and just plug it up,see if the lignt goes off.If it does then go through the process of swapping it out.Same thing happened to me.
Go to auto zone and have the codes read for free. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY I disconnected the battery and the light did not reset On my '95 maxima I have to leave the battery disconnected for ~24 hours to reset the engine lignt. On my 1987 Maxima there is a button to push to reset the light. It is located underneath the passenger kick panel. On my 1999 Maxima I had to disconnect the battery for 24 hours : Go to autozone and have them clear it, easiest way, go to yoru local mechanic, he should have a obd scan tool, pay to have him remove it.
It's lignt, reasonably cheap and easy to shape, doesn't stain or transfer taste to most foods, and it conducts heat well which is good when cooking.
Lignt being a wave must express the phenomenon of bending at the edges. But this is not easily observed. This is mainly because of the shorter wavelength of light. Hence we come to the conclusion that light never bends and always travel in straight lines. This is what we call rectilinear propagation of light. This was successfully explained by Young and Fresnel with the concept of half period zones. Also light waves considered as transverse in nature.
My 1996 Windstar had the same problem, I found that the sliding door had some type of swinging switch. Looking into the door latch of sliding door is a square hole with rubber around. I used wd-40 and some other lubes. Each oil change I spray the hole and latch system. On each door is a set of contacts. I use scotch brite pad and clean them on both contact points. It does not so this any more.Note. When you do this it takes time for the lube to work. After 2 days of moving and such it stops. If you notice the lignt and bell starts when you are stopping or starting. I found this information some years back and it has saved me from trading the van. Good luck. I also found that when my door ajar light was stuck on (liftgate in my case), the interior lights were automatically deactivated. Once the false ajar signal went away, the lights resumed normal behavior.Also, when the dashboard dimmer wheel switch is in the all the way down position, it deactivates the interior lights - handy for when tail-gating or cleaning the van with the doors open.See "Related Questions" below for more about false door ajar signals...
the brake light switch on the brake peda is by far the most likely cause ---but it would be nice to know which vehicle your talking aboutA Bad or Broken Brake light switch would be my first guess. Most brake light switches are mounted under the dash to the brake pedal however some cars have another switch there also to prevent you from starting the car until the brake pedal is pressed don't confuse the two. EzForJesus check the break lignt senser located next to your break pedalOn my 97 Chevy Blazer, the taillights work, hazards work, turn signals worked, but my two main brake lights didn't, the high mounted center l.e.d. brake light up top worked and my trailer hitch brake light worked but the other 2 didn't. My emergency hazard switch broke off, in it, Chevy has that multifunction switch that controls the brake lights, wipers, turn signals, all of that... there is a connector on that hazard light switch that when pushed or put in it's original place, makes contact on 2 of the lines inside it, i jimmy rigged mine with a screw to hold it in the place it was suppose to be at.... I need to replace that whole switch, it's called the cruise control assembly at autozone, but two hundred dollars is the price and I'm not paying it...Try the "WD40" trick on the Hazard Switch. Use a can with the red straw nozzle and just shoot a little into the area around your hazard switch, then move it up and down, on/off--just generally wiggle it a little bit. On many vehicles (especially FORDS, but others as well) this will allow the switch to fully disengage and return brake lights and turn signals to functionality.