It works great I replaced mine and they work like a charm comes with instructions! Respectfully! Randy I just used a piece of fuel line hose and a hose clamp and put it on the little plastic knobby that the lever butts up against when it closes. It is typically the worn gear that causes the issue, but I found that the lever becomes bent also and causes the gear to slip. Decreasing the distance the lever has to travel by placing a small hose piece and a hose clamp on there might fix it as well. It essentially will prevent the gear from disengaging at the end point, where the motor sensor is looking for a specific tension before stopping. If the lever hits the end, but its not tight, it will spin the two gears when they are not meshed together properly. The hose trick worked for me. A lot easier than the pulling the motor, ripping it apart, and gluing it back together. Give that a shot.
I had a similar situation with a 91 Firebird. The gears inside the motor and gearbox unit had missing teeth. I had to replace the unit. The cost was about $110 and I found it at Partstrain.com . Replacement was not hard. I had to remove the headlamp assembly (2 bolts on top and 2 underneath) to replace the motor.
When the stomata opens the guard cells become turgid, and when the stomata closes it becomes flaccid. How does that happen? When light (blue) hits the stomata it causes the hydrogen channels to open. Hydrogen is pumped in response to increased blue light levels. In response to hydrogen moving out potassium moves in, and water follows, which increases turgor pressure. At night what happens is that there is no blue light to cause the stomata to open therefore it closes.
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