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If you are referring to the type of wrench that usually has an open end to tighten the bolt or nut and a point on the other end...the point is called a "drift pin" and is used to line up the hole that the bolt is going into. That style of wrench is called a "drift pin wrench".
Pin supports consist of a pin through 2 components which allows rotation about the joint but no translation relative to the pin due to the reactive forces from the pin preventing this movement.
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Using a slider crank opposite to the conventional sense, (ie, input to the slider and output obtained at the crank) should do the job. This should help you : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZO-BhkWIMM
The safety pin was invented to pay off a debt.
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remove the inspection plate. rotate the ring gear until you see the head of a small bolt. remove the bolt. the pin will fall out
The distance betwen center axiess of the crank sahft and crank pin
The bolt carrier, the firing pin, the carrier pin, the extractor, the cam pin, the bolt, the extractor retaining pin.... that's the assembly, but the charging handle is also defined as part of the bolt carrier group.
it is the product of the crank pin effort (Ft) and the crank radius (r).it is denoted by T.T = Ft * rT = Fp * r (sin θ + sin 2θ / 2n)
There's a 10mm bolt at the back of the block just above the o/s drive shaft, you have to take this out and put in the timing pin (i just used a drill bit that was long enough) when you put the pin in , turn the pulley wheel anti clockwise until you feel the drill bit drop into the timing slot , then remove the pin and replace the bolt and bobs your uncle
behind the window crank handle, there is a horseshoe shaped pin, pop that pin off and the crank handle should pull right off.
behind the window crank handle, there is a horseshoe shaped pin, pop that pin off and the crank handle should pull right off.
After the bolt carrier is removed, the pin is driven straight down to remove.
Open the bolt. On the top of the bolt, near the firing pin, is a clip that runs most of the length of the bolt. at the firing pin, push this clip up so that it clears the bolt and turn it to the right. then remove the bolt.
Field strip the weapon down to the bolt and bolt carrier and then use a steel punch to drive out the firing pin retainer pin on the back edge of the bolt. The firing pin and firing pin rebound spring will drop out into your hand. To reverse that, put the bolt face down on a table and force the firing pin/spring forward into the slot to allow the retainer pin to be replaced. Reassemble weapon as usual.
Be very careful before you loosen the pulley bolt on the crankshaft. Most of these engines DO NOT have a woodruff key in the crank and once the bolt is loose the crank spocket is free to move independantly of the crank. Make sure you have the locking pin set (3 pins, one of which is threaded) One goes in the camshaft at around 10 o clock, One in the injector pump. But the most important one is the one that goes into the block just under the starter motor. There is a male torx bolt to undo (fiddly) then the pin is screwed into the block as far as it will go. Now turn the crank shaft clock wise until the crank web just touches the pin and that's tdc. (I find taking the starter out makes it easier to lock the flywheel and mark it for tdc) To loosen the bolt on the crank pulley don't leae any pins in or you'll bend them. Use an air impact driver with the car in first and someone pressing the brake pedal. You can use a long bar but it's tight and you don't want to move the crank too much. Once you have done one it's easy. Sealy make the timing pin kits and some sell on eBay for around 13-15 quid. If your doing a belt then change the tensioner as well.