A clutch not disengaging is usually a hydraulic issue. Check your clutch fluid. Then check your clutch master and slave cylinders for leaks.
It's the slave cylinder.
Properly operated the clutch should last at least three or five years of normal driving without servicing being necessary. If a driver often "rides" the clutch, that is keeps his foot on it, then the main clutch bearing will deteriorate faster. When it becomes difficult to engage the clutch and change gears, for example it does not disengage until you step on it all the way to the floor, then the clutch should be inspected and the parts replaced as necessary.
If you just replaced the clutch and pressure plate, the only "little rod" I can think of is in the slave cylinder. It is what pushes the fork in to disengage the clutch. If you did not put it in, you should not be able to shift or engage the clutch. The slave cylinder should blow out the seal when you step on the clutch pedal. The rod is about the diameter of a pencil and 2 inches long more or less?
It's a cycling clutch compressor. It disengages to keep system pressure where it should be. When it reaches the high point, it disengages. Then it engages again when it reaches the predetermined low point.
Clutch wear can be told by noticing no wheel spin when the engine revs are higher than they should be for the speed you are going. Make sure your foot is off the clutch. Thrust bearing wear on the shaft make a sound when you engage or disengage the clutch. You may also feel the oddness in the pedal when the noise occurs.
Three Allen head bolts or t-25 torx bolts. it should separate from the outer primary case. There will be an o-ring gasket behind that.
Plug gap for the Sportster 883 or 1200 should be .040
ive never worked on that truck but it should be a cable clutch. you will have to get under the truck with acouple wrenches. there should be a lever stickout of of the trans by the front of it. there will be a cable hooked to it and there should be 2 nuts near it. break them both free and tighten the other one. tighten the locking nut and boom. be carefull you dont want too much or too little adjustment because you will either be riding the clutch or it wont disengage enough
It sounds as if the clevis connector for the clutch master cylinder may be incorrectly adjusted too far out. Removing the cotter retaining pin and the pin that attaches the clevis to the clutch pedal and turning the adjustment nut to shorten the clutch 'travel' should fix the problem. (or if you had a shop do the clutch replacement, bring it back to the shop and have them correctly adjust the clutch master cylinder travel) Hope this helps
You add fluid to the clutch reservoir. If it is empty, you have a leak and probably got air into the system. Proper repairs should be done to correct the problem.
This is normal in a sequential transmission motorcycles use. The transmission needs a source of power to move the gears in place, if you shift more than one or two gears down, you will have to disengage the clutch to continue shifting down. You should plan your stops accordingly and shift down while stopping so that you can shift to first just about when you are rolling to a stop.
30-36 fluid ounces should be correct...this should bring the fluid level to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm