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What should be done to correct a clutch that will not disengage on a 1994 HD sportster?

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Answered 2009-05-05 03:03:27

A clutch not disengaging is usually a hydraulic issue. Check your clutch fluid. Then check your clutch master and slave cylinders for leaks.

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Properly operated the clutch should last at least three or five years of normal driving without servicing being necessary. If a driver often "rides" the clutch, that is keeps his foot on it, then the main clutch bearing will deteriorate faster. When it becomes difficult to engage the clutch and change gears, for example it does not disengage until you step on it all the way to the floor, then the clutch should be inspected and the parts replaced as necessary.


If you just replaced the clutch and pressure plate, the only "little rod" I can think of is in the slave cylinder. It is what pushes the fork in to disengage the clutch. If you did not put it in, you should not be able to shift or engage the clutch. The slave cylinder should blow out the seal when you step on the clutch pedal. The rod is about the diameter of a pencil and 2 inches long more or less?


It's a cycling clutch compressor. It disengages to keep system pressure where it should be. When it reaches the high point, it disengages. Then it engages again when it reaches the predetermined low point.


Clutch wear can be told by noticing no wheel spin when the engine revs are higher than they should be for the speed you are going. Make sure your foot is off the clutch. Thrust bearing wear on the shaft make a sound when you engage or disengage the clutch. You may also feel the oddness in the pedal when the noise occurs.


Plug gap for the Sportster 883 or 1200 should be .040


Three Allen head bolts or t-25 torx bolts. it should separate from the outer primary case. There will be an o-ring gasket behind that.


It sounds as if the clevis connector for the clutch master cylinder may be incorrectly adjusted too far out. Removing the cotter retaining pin and the pin that attaches the clevis to the clutch pedal and turning the adjustment nut to shorten the clutch 'travel' should fix the problem. (or if you had a shop do the clutch replacement, bring it back to the shop and have them correctly adjust the clutch master cylinder travel) Hope this helps


ive never worked on that truck but it should be a cable clutch. you will have to get under the truck with acouple wrenches. there should be a lever stickout of of the trans by the front of it. there will be a cable hooked to it and there should be 2 nuts near it. break them both free and tighten the other one. tighten the locking nut and boom. be carefull you dont want too much or too little adjustment because you will either be riding the clutch or it wont disengage enough


You add fluid to the clutch reservoir. If it is empty, you have a leak and probably got air into the system. Proper repairs should be done to correct the problem.



30-36 fluid ounces should be correct...this should bring the fluid level to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm


This is normal in a sequential transmission motorcycles use. The transmission needs a source of power to move the gears in place, if you shift more than one or two gears down, you will have to disengage the clutch to continue shifting down. You should plan your stops accordingly and shift down while stopping so that you can shift to first just about when you are rolling to a stop.


`By disengage I assume you mean you can't change gears or get it out of gear. You may be able to change gears if it is not running. If this is so, it is one of several possibilities. You have a hydrolic clutch. The master cylinder can be empty, or more likely, the slave cylinder located on the transmission housing is bad. You should be able to see the slave cylinder. Have someone push the clutch in and see if there is any movement in the slave. The clutch disc can be screwed up, but that's a long shot.


remove clutch cover on left side of primary cover " hold in on cover while unbolting" as to not let the spring fall or move and keeping rubber gasket in place, "bike must be standing level - not on kickstand" oil should cover bottom of clutch basket! oil should be replaced every 10,000 miles. clutch cover should be carefully put against primary cover not to twist or pinch rubber gasket, torque should be 84 to 108 inch lbs. or times by 12 for ft lbs. goodluck.


did you check your slave cylinder? is the hydraulic master cylinder leaking? did you try bleeding the clutch at all? what exactly does your pedal do? does it go straight to the floor or does it have pedal? there may be an air pocket in your lines? it could be alot of things you have to be more specific with your question


bleeding the clutchI have spoken to few people around and the sensis is to vaccumm bleed the clutch, i have a problem of getting the car in reverse with a bit of grinding and i am told that i need to bleed the clutch or replace it can someone help me in that problem? most clutchs are self bleedingANSWERNO NEED TO BENCH BLEED,INSTALLED THEM VIRGIN BUT THE MAIN KEY IS THOSE FLUID PIPE LINES ARE INSTALLED VERY TIGHT AND INSTALLED THE RIGHT WAY IT IS THE MAIN KEY,OR ELSE YOU WONT GET A NICE CLUTCH,IF ITS NO LEAKS VACUUM BLEED THE SYSTEM PROPERLY,IF YOU WANT XTRA CLUTCH BLEED THE SYSTEM DISENGAGE FROM THE FORK AFTER THAT IT SHOULD BE OK,IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU NEED TO DISENGAGE THE SLAVE CYLINDER JUST ONCE OR ANY OF THE PUMPS OR ELSE YOU WILL NEVER GET IT RIGHT,TRY TO PREVENT USING THE SLAVE OR MASTER CYLINDER PRESSING THEM SPECIALLY THE TWON MAN BLEEDING PRESSING BY FOOT IT IS THE WRONG THING TO DO,HOPE THIS HELPS


Same as the engine oil. I use a synthetic 20w50. 32oz or 1quarts should b enough. There is a small hex bolt behind the clutch housing, remove the screw, level the bike, and add the oil thru the primary chain inspection hole till oil comes out of the screw hole. Put everything back and your done.


Clutch judder is a British term use to describe a clutch shudder. It is caused by the flywheel and the components of the clutch not meeting as they should. It usually means something has gotten on the surface of the clutch.


The clutch should last approx 150,000 miles. There is no need to replace this if it isn't abused


The dipstick on a Harley-Davidson Sportster motorcycle is read by noting the position of the oil in relation to the markings. The oil should be between the full and add marks.



This should have a hydraulic clutch and would not be adjustable


The throw out bearing may not be releasing properly. The pilot shaft bearing may be bad. The clutch itself could have a broken spring, or the slave cylinder could not be allowing the clutch to disengage properly. There should be an access hole on the bell housing to look and see what's happening (with the engine not running.) If you don't see a problem then the transmission will need to be removed to find the cause.


Hydraulic .. be sure to keep the level correct , but you should not need to keep topping up if all is OK



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