What symptoms would a 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe experience if the power steering gearbox was out and is it a difficult task to change one?

Answer 1

The Power Steering unit will either begin to whine when you turn the wheel, or you will experience hard spots as you turn the wheel right and left. You coudl add some Lucas Power Steering Pump addative and it may help these problems. It did help mine stop leaking for awhile but I had to replace the unit eventually. This is how I replaced the power steering unit Answer I just did this on my 97 and this is how I did it.... disconnect the neg post on battery remove the top fan shroud 7 screws in all release tension on the belt using the idler pulley and slide the belt off, make sure you know how it routes back on. there is an S shaped bracket on the BACK of the power steering pump, one of the ends of the S bolts close to the where the exhaust manifold is, the other is under the block near the front. USe a very bright light to look under to find it. There is also an electrical connection at the back of the power steering pump that needs to be disconnected so pry the clip up and slide the connector off. Your 95 may not have this, it is a power steering pump low fluid warning device. There are 2 long blots and ONE NUT that hold the aluminum plate to the block Loosen the bolts and the nut to make the aluminum bracket loose. Note there are 4 long bolts that hold the A/C compressor to the aluminum bracket. The A/C compressor is heavy so if you remove the 2 bolts and the nut mentioned previously be ready to handle the whole bracket assembly which will be heavy with the A/C compressor and the power steering pump on it. I removed the 4 long bolts, and the 1 black bolt that attched the bracket that held the 2 throttle cables and sat the compressor back on top of the engine to remove that weight from the bracket. There are 3 bolts that hold the power steering pump to the aluminum bracket but they are BEHIND the pulley. Pull the pulley off and then remove the 3 bolts that hold the pump to the aluminum bracket and have a grip on the pump when you pull the 3 bolts out Now you have to manipulate the pump from between the block and the aluminum manifold lifting it and finding a resting place for it, unscrew the 2 fittings that go to the steering column and be ready for fluid loss. Once you have the pump and hoses loose, lift it up and out. I had to transfer the S bracket to the new pump, the electrical connector and I transferred the 2 hoses and a small black bracket that bolted to the 4th front hole in the pump. It appears to be a protective bracket to keep the metal tube close to the side of the pump. I used a gasket sealant on the threads or you can use Teflon tape to prevent leaks. To install is reverse.......I used antiseize on threads since you do have different metals being bolted together. The S bracket on the back of the pump is the key to getting it off and on, it's almost like it rests on the 2 studs allowing you to insert one or two of the front bolts and then adjusting everything. One word of caution, do not overtighten the bolts, and do NOT crossthread them. start all bolts by hand and keep jiggling the pump while you try to start them. Everythign MUST line up correctly or else you will crossthread adn then have a bigger problem. Once you get the pump back in and bolted up, then replace the pulley. You may want to try to locate a special tool that allows you to remove the FAN. I loosened the fan and it helped a bit but removing it makes getting the pulley off and on a lot easier. The tool prevents the fan from turning while breaking loose the large nut that is REVERSED threaded. Without the tool, I don't see how you cna remove the fan. This job was one I am not sure I would tackle again alone.........and without the fan removal tool. I left a lot of flesh trying to get my hands in places not meant for large hands as well as trying to figure out how the electrical connector on the back is attached. IT IS PUSHED IN AND THEN THREADED. Garages I took the pump to didn't know how it was attached, they thought it was pressed in. The key is to remove the spring clips on the back, and then turning the large black nut on the piece unthread it and it will pop out when it reaches the ends of the threads. You have to push it in and catch the threads on the new unit if you are transferring it.........you won't see any threads in the hole when you look, because you have to push IN and then turn to catch the threads. make sure you know how to bleed the air from your new pump otherwise you will be doing this ugly job again soon. I hope I don't have to do it for another 100,000 miles.