The speed of the motor vehicle is gently slowed down. The more aggressive the brakes are applied the faster the vehicle slows down eventually coming to a full stop.
Assuming we are talking about "S" cam air brakes on a truck, check the angle at the end of the slack adjuster to the actuator rod coming out of the air brake can when brakes are applied, it should be 90 degrees, if the slack adjuster is manual adjust it with the brakes not applied and then test again. If they are automatic slack adjusters and you do not have 90 degrees with brakes applied it is worn out or not installed correctly.
the abs light means you have a problem in your brake system it also means get it to a shop and have it fixed before the brakes fail and you are in a wreck as for feeling like it wants to go when the brakes are applied that in itself tells you there is a problem if the brakes are inadequate while stopped, how is it going to stop you in an emergency
There are many different kinds of smells that could be coming from the brakes. There could be a burning smell.
It can be attached to the bottom of the master cylinder or on the drivers side frame between the firewall and the radiator. Follow the brake lines coming out of the master cylinder.
That sound it the air being aloud to escape from the air system though the quick release valve. This usally happens when the driver has applied the parking brakes. But, it can happen during other times you dont want it to.
you need to replace your brake pads. if you don't, in due time, they will wear down and put grooves on your rotors and that is NO bueno.
Sounds like a vacuum leak - check the hoses to the vacuum actuated motors under dash Could be a bad check valve in the vacuum booster (for brakes)
your rear brakes are your emergency brakes. if your handle is coming up to much you need new brakes most likely or sometimes just an adjustment.
More than likely you have a warped rotor(s). You need to determine if it's coming from the front or rear brakes or both. The suspect rotor(s) would need to be turned or replaced along with brake pads if needed.
Increased stopping distances ... a slight high pitch "ringing" when the brakes are applied (this is a metal post that is coming into contact with the rotors). Disk brake pads should last for about 60,000 miles ... drum brake pads, 40,000 ... taking into consideration that the application and use of the brakes is normal and not having to slam on the brakes for each and every stop.
There can be two possibilities. The first is your wheel bearing going bad. The second could be the drive axle wearing out.
The brakes are not releasing and need to be brought back to whoever put them on.
Just know that if that is happening you are in serious trouble as it means that your brakes are leaking. In MLs the brakes use air pressure so if there is a hissing sound it means air is leaking thus your brakes could possibly fail. The best solution is to go to a registered Mercedes Benz garage so they can fix the problem. Alternatively if you dont have the money you could pretend that there is no noise and eventually you brakes will fail and you'll be in an accident i.e. GET YOU BRAKES FIXED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE
a concret beam or slab that seperates drivers coming towards other drivers
The grinding could be coming from the rear brakes.
It is a cause and effect thing. Was the other axle inspected if all the brakes, front and rear, were not replaced? Can you tell where it's coming from at all? Is the noise identical from when before the brakes were replaced? Year, make, model and mileage would help as well. Drum on rear? Don't assume the brakes were done correctly. Believe it or not, I have done a few where someone put the pads in backwards with the backing plate against the rotor. If someone worked on it for you, take it back to them and complain.
Have the brakes checked.
There is a ground fault in one of your wire connections into your taillight. It is usually a connector for your rear light assembly. Starting with the side that blinkers flash fast when brakes are applied, remove the 2 mounting screws from the rear light assembly using an allen wrench. Disconnect the plug from the tail light assembly . You will find that the pin to your ground will have a blackish tint on the pin (on the rear light assembly). Clean this pin and the corresponding plug recepticle. I added a tiny piece of tin foil to the plug in the ground pin hole to ensure a tight connection. Plug in the unit while not installed and see if that eliminates the blinker lights from coming on on the dash when the brakes are applied and the blinker is on. This worked on my 2001 Montana rear drivers side. I also had the back up lights coming on when brake was applied when blinkers were activated. This fixed every problem
The distance a vehicle will travel between putting on the brakes and coming to a stop.
More info: 87 Crown Victoria 5.0 engine The sound is coming from the drivers side wheel vicinity and can be heard better when the window is rolled up (less outside noise to drown it out?) It does not occur when standing still. The sound is cyclical according to how fast I am going. It squeals faster as the car speeds up and like wise slows down when I do. It is not likely the brakes as it is not a high pitched whine like the brakes and makes the sound when not braking. It was faint a few days ago but is steadily getting louder.
Yes and I have applied yeah!
Definitely, otherwise she is coming from a planet where gravity is quite unusual.
any leak on your drivers door, or firewall. could be just about anything.