There is no hydraulic fluid in the transmission. However, there is hydraulic fluid in the clutch system. If the clutch fluid reservoir is empty it would cause clutch not to operate.
yes hydraulic could cause this also the clutch pressure plate could be collapsed
if its hydraulic there could be air in your line. bleed your clutch and refill.
A worn out clutch release bearing would cause a whining sound when you put your foot on the clutch.
Bad hydraulic cylinders.
Slack in the clutch release or clutch basket. It might adjust out.
It is a hydraulic clutch. An excess of fluid in the system will cause it to be hard to pull back. Either that, or you need to lift some weights so that you won't notice.
The clutch on a 1984 Honda Goldwing GL1200 is hydraulic and is not adjustable. There is a slave cylinder for the clutch located behind the engine that must be bled to eliminate air in the system. This air (or old fluid) can cause the clutch lever to engage at the end of it's arc of travel.
According to www.ehow.com this problem can be caused by your clutch reservoir being empty of brake fluid. The whole article is here: http://www.ehow.com/how_7677_check-fluid-hydraulic.html Hope this helps It may also be a symptom of a bad clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder-- or perhaps a leaking hose or connection. Whatever the case, the primary cause is the fact that the hydraulic pressure is not building enough to disengage the clutch fully. I always start with the simple solutions first-- check the fluid levels and check thoroughly for any leaks--then bleed the clutch hydraulic system-- if that doesn't improve performance then I'd replace the master AND the slave cylinder and rebleed the system. That should get you shifting smoothly again.
If the clutch is froze, I assume disengagment is the problem. Check the freeplay, or if it is hydraulic, check to see if linkage is disengaging the throwout bearing. Unless you know what you are doing, take your ranger in to an A.S.E. certified auto technician. A faulty clutch system can cause serious damage and injury to you and other's.
Either the clutch fluid level could have gotten low allowing air into the lines or you may need to replace your clutch master cylinder. Try adding DOT3 brake fluid and then pumping the clutch pedal. If you start to notice some resistance then you need to bleed the clutch hydraulic lines.
the most common reason for this would be a worn throwout bearing sizing when hot or worn fingers on clutch plate both require removal of transmission to fix
A leak around the release screw most likely culprit.
If there were no operating clearance the clutch release bearing would constantly be in contact with the spring diaphragm causing wear on both the diaphragm and the bearing itself, also the bearing pushing on the diaphragm could cause the clutch friction plate to not be fully engaged and slip.
Check the fluid level first, but beyond that, any internal wear which allows hydraulic pressure leaks would cause the problem you describe. It could be a clutch pack, valve body, hydraulic pump or even a partially plugged filter.
I am not sure what you mean by repair because it is a wear item. It would need to be replaced which would involve disconnecting your transmission from the engine, removing the pressure plate and flywheel bolts to disassemble the old unit then either getting the flywheel resurfaced or replacing it with new as well as a new pressure plate and clutch. You need a clutch alignment tool when you are reassembling the clutch,flywheel and pressure plate set. It usually comes with a clutch "kit" then you would reassemble and it would be wise to bleed to slave cylinder or adjust the clutch cable if it happens to be a mechanical transmission versus hydraulic. IF it is a mechanical transmission then you would be wise to first check the tension on the clutch cable to see if maybe you are not engaging the clutch entirely when you release the pedal as this can be a common cause of slippage in a mechanical transmission.
Too high a temperature
Regulates hydraulic pressure at a predetermined pressure setting so not to cause damage to hydraulic system.
Check the clutch release bearing, and also loot at the clutch release arm. Whenever the clutch release bearing is not properly lubricated, (ON THE SURFACES OF CONTACT TO THE PRESSURE PLATE AND THE MAINSHAFT) then the metal drag will pull and cause the release bearings holding bracket to "sit and click" Let me know how it goes, firstname.lastname@example.org (I KNOW FROM EXPERIENCEI HAVE AN 88 LEGEND COUPE THAT I HAVE REPLACED THE TRANSMISSION ON)
Typically, yes. When a clutch engages it is the result of the springs of the pressure plate pinching the clutch plate into the flywheel. Anything that results in less pressure against the clutch plate will result in slipping. A worn damaged plate spring can end up creating less pressure. A worn clutch plate will not be as thick resulting in less pressure. Slipping can also be caused by oil that may have leaked onto the clutch plate. Unfortunately, the only way you can determine the cause of the problem will be to remove either the transmission or the engine so that you can examine the clutch assembly.
There are a few issues that can cause starting problems in the Kia Sephia. Some include a bad or drained battery, faulty starter, or a bad alternator.
If adjustable, otherwise replace. Hyundai vehicles use a hydraulic clutch set up which are not adjustable. When replacing the clutch do not machine the flywheel; this changes the clearances and will cause clutch engagement issues. Inspect flywheel for cracks or heat related damage, if none sand using 3M sanding disk or equivlent, if there is damage replace flywheel. Note: I believe the torque specs on the pressure plate are 12-16 ft-lbs.
A slipping clutch.
Oiling the a/c clutch will cause the clutch to slip and burn up........
rapid release of the cluth pedal. When stationary can cause a car to stall. When on the move can restart an engine, as in bump starting.