You can find the dipstick for the transmission fluid of an automatic transmission on the passenger side of the engine block (this is where the automatic transmission is mounted). It is way down in there and somewhat difficult to see - a flashlight will be helpful in locating it. You need to be careful when checking it because it is easy to burn your arm on the radiator hose as you reach down in there to grab the dipstick. As for the engine revving, depends if it is an automatic or manual transmission. If it isn't the clutch or the transmission, it could be a faulty throttle position sensor, bad oxygen sensor, bad fast idle thermovalve, or many other things.
Check to see if your transmission has a vacuum modulator. If it does, it could be leaking and fluid could be getting sucked into the engine. If it's a slow leak, the engine would burn that much fluid without too much trouble. See if there is a vacuum line between the transmission and engine. If so, disconnect it and see if there is fluid in it. If it has fluid, there is a vacuum leak in the transmission and you'll need to get it fixed.
Remove the engine speed sensor which is located directly behind the engine on the clutch bellhousing side of the transaxle case below and to the left of the brake master cyinder. It sticks straight up and has a bolt on the side holding it down. Remove the electric connector attached to it and if there is a speedometer cable remove that also. Unscrew the retaining bolt at the base of the sensor and wiggle it out. The fluild level should reach the top of the gear on the sensor when inserted. This is also where you add fluid to the transaxle/transmission(use a funnel with a long stem). Note although this is a manual transmission it requires MERCON ATF(automatic transmission) fluid or equivalent. Do not use gear oil!!!
Maybe, 95 windstar has a different plug for transmission shift and the netrual safety switch ,But the plug for the trans can be changed,also you must have both in front of you to compare.95-97 ,98-01,your trans is an AX4N and uses syn fluild,,the car computer makes the trans shift.95 is an AX4S,I think it will work but as always you will have things to deal with.
the only way to check trans fluid level on '02 explorer is from under the truck.. you will need a special tool to hold nut on drain plug while you unscrew the center screw which has a tube attached to it... basically you will add fluid till it starts to leak out, then you know you are full... hope this helps..
No dip stick or filler tube exists on the 03 4.0L Ford Explorer so you can't add or remove fluild unless you crawl under the vehicle. A fill plug exists on the Trans Case or Trans pan. If you need just a simple service take your vehicle to a transmission shop but if you experiencing hard or late shifts or dash O/D light blinking problems it time for an overhaul. These problems occur around the 50K mile mark and are do to inferior design and material used in the manufacture of this Automatic.
The owners manual and the Ford Website state the fluid is to be changed at 60,000 miles, a flush and filter change at 150,000 miles.. My dealer keeps trying to get me to do a fluid change at 30,000 miles, where the service only requires the fluid level to be checked at this mileage.Counterpoint to the above; while it might not be required, and the dealership service department is in business to make a profit, it might be in this one instance they are actually giving good advice to do a flush and fill every 30,000 miles. Consider that replacing your transmission will cost you somewhere between $2500 and $3500 and during that time you'll have no transportation. There is no doubt that more frequent fluid changes will not harm your transmission, and will most probably extend it's life. Spending $100-$150 every 30,000 miles seems like insurance to me. But the choice is certainly up to each individual.As for the original question, Ford recommends flushing and filling your automatic transmission verses simply changing the fluid. This is because when draining the fluild in a conventional manner, you leave roughly 2/3 of the dirty transmission fluid in your torque converter. Flushing the system captures most of this fluid and replaces it with fresh fluid, therefore extending the life of your transmission. Just about any quality transmission shop can do flush and fills, in addition to the dealership.If you have to do it yourself for financial reasons, I would suggest buying a good manual and spending some time with it before attempting it, rather than trying to do it by following instructions online.
Well, the scientific theory of physhiology states that not only can a cell be submerged in isotonic fluild for diffusion to prosper, but that it can also be sliced into horizontal strips for a cell's asymmetrates to line up and increase the practical surfaxe area that makes the shape slightly oblique.
your heater core has an internal issue. if that is not it, then its leaking into your oil, an easy way to check that is drain a small glass cup full of oil. now oil floats on top of radiator fluid so if you have any discolored part of fluild in the cup then you have a blown seal in the engine. but this is a "just in case" type of thing, i doubt it happened to you. but the easiest way to get this thing solved is run a diagnostics on it, autozone is free, and even though nothing shows up on the dash, the computer might know something you dont
consider boundary layer over any body.... fact is that they have surface velocity as zero this cause no slip condition.... so that any body over the surface of them will not slip when they are moving in stream of fluild.. eg we see in earth boundary layer over the earth does not allow one to slip from one place to another during jumping.
Change the transmission fluid and filter according the the schedule listed in your owner's manual. Don't have one then change it every 36,000 miles. Do not flush! FLUSH it every 30,000 miles or even less. The fluid seems to burn up fairly quickly in the windstars. Just draining a few quarts out and put a few quarts in doesn't do you much good. It's like doing half an oil change and actually increases your chances of having a failure. If you've got a lot of miles on the transmission. Go to www.bgfindashop.com and find a store near you that does a transmission flush. If you've got under 50,000 miles you get a free protection plan that gives you up to $2,000 towards a new trans for the next 30,000 miles. If you keep flushing it every 30k, you can get the protection up until 150,000 miles. I disagree with answer #2. This is a 5 year old vehicle and as such probably has over 60,000 miles on it. Flushing a transmission with this many miles on it is asking for trouble. You may stir up more problems than you clean out. BTW, this vehicle does not burn transmission fluid. A complete fluid change including the torque converter will remove all the old fluid. Do not FLUSH! When I said "burns up" I meant goes black, gets fried, or otherwise destroys the detergent package that protects the transmission. The only way to do a "complete fluid exchange" is to flush it. Draining the pan and converter don't get all the fluid out. Most modern flushing machines don't put extra pressure on the vehicles transmission they just use the transmission pump on the car to push out all the old fluid while replacing it with new. It just gets ALL the old fluild out. A vehicle with only 60,000 miles shouldn't have any problems after a flush. OK, I got you on the burn. Also what you call a flush is nothing more that a complete drain, which is fine. I am referring to a chemical flush, which I highly recommend against. A chemical flush removes varnish and deposits, which can then cause problems. I say again, do not flush, only change the fluid. It is a matter of terminology.
I have not worked on a Toyota Corolla brakes, but have with many others. First remove your master cylinder resivoir cap under hood where the brake fluid is added.This way a extra fluid you move through the cylinder has a place to go, you may want to place a few rags under your brake resivoir to prevent fluild from spilling all over. The Purpose of doing what I am trying to explain below is to keep air out of your brake system. However even with this procedure you may still have to bleed (remove air) from your brake system. If caliper is still on rotor, take a clear plastic tube a glass jar and clean brake fluid. Add some brake fluid to to the container place one end of plastic tube into container and now get the right size wrench (or carefully with a crescent wrench)to attach to the brake caliper bleeded screw on the caliper (should look like a grease zert fitting). So attach the wrench then the plastic hose over the front of the fitting. Have someone slowly depress the brake pedal while you loosen the bleed screw, brake fluild should be released through the fitting into the tub and jar BEFORE the brake pedal is released retighten the screw so air does not enter your break system. If you do not care about the air in your brake sysyem then just loosen the bleed screw and grab hold of your rotor moving back and fourth until it comes off the rotor. Once off the rotor you can carefully use a c-clamp or pry leverage to push the caliper cyclender back in.
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