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If a Salamander Grill keeps going out and the thermocouple is okay and the valve is new then a faulty thermostat could be the cause. Replacing the thermostat or re-calibrating it generally solves the issue.
You mean GLOBE valve and that would depend on the size of the valve and the maker
I would use a butterfly valve to set the flow and a pitot tube to measure it. Nexus Valve makes a good one and it is price competetive as well.
The gate valve (sometimes known as a sluice valve) is usually manufactured by casting the body, the gate and the bonnet of a suitable material (brass, iron, steel or another alloy) and machining the mating and assembly surfaces, and also the stem. There are a number of different ones made of plastic, too. They are usually injection molded, and because of the precision of the molding process, they generally don't have to machine the parts. Let's look at the metal ones. The body has four critical areas that must be made "to spec" for the valve to make the grade and work well. The primary area is the seat in the middle of the body of the valve. Recall that the gate slides down into the seat area and "wedges" itself in between the two seating surfaces. These are on either side of the gate when it is in the "shut" position. The planes of the seats must not skew, and their angles must be precise. The gate's seats must be comparibly precise. If the gate is to work and seal the fluid path through the valve body, here's where we need precise work. There are the flange areas on either side of the body on the ends where the valve mates to other piping. They are clean and machined for bolting or machined to allow piping to fit snugly into the body where it is welded or brazed. And of course the top of the valve where the bonnet is bolted on or screwed in has to be machined, as well as the operating threads for the stem, which are machined into the body below where the bonnet fits. The bonnet will be machined and have the hole in it for the valve stem. And the packing flange or packing nut will fit on the bonnet to compress the packing that seals the stem. The stem has the operating threads machined on it, and the shaft above is machined smooth so the packing will be effective. With all the parts cast and machined, it's just a matter of putting the thing together. Links are provided to some pictures and drawings.
Never. Throttling will erode the valve seat and then the valve will never shut off completely.
The thermocouple proves to the system that the pilot light is lit and the gas valve can safely open.
You can purchase a Honeywell gas valve from any good plumbers merchant on the high street. You can also go online to websites like ScrewFix or Amazon where they sell these.
No, that is part of the function of the pilot light. To light the burner and to keep the gas valve open. The thermocouple sits in the flame of the pilot and produces a small electrical current that keep the gas valve open. When the tank cools down, the thermostat opens the valve to the burner so that it can light. When the pilot goes out, it is usually the thermocouple that is bad.
A thermopile generates electricity from the heat of a pilot light. It generates about 750 mV that turns on the main gas valve to the fireplace.A thermocouple is heated by the pilot light but it uses pressure to hold the pilot light gas supply valve open. When the thermocouple is heated, pressure increases holding open the main gas valve. If it cools down, the pressure goes down and closes the gas valve.
THERMOCOUPLE or defective gas valve
yes
The thermocouple is bad. The thermocouple is the small metal tube that sits in the pilot light flame and runs to the control valve. The thermocouple generates a very small electrical current that keeps the gas valve open. They go bad regularly. **** I would have to say to check to make sure the valve is not in the "Pilot" position. If it is then turn it to the "On' position. If it still isn't working then you may have a bad Gas Control Valve. If the thermocouple was bad the pilot light would not stay lit. If the pilot light stay lit, it is doing what it is supossed to do.
If the pilot flame is too high a thermocouples life could be shortened. Check the specs of the unit supplied by the gas valve for the working pilot pressure. Or put the gas valve in pilot and depress the pilot push button. Keep the button down with a small screwdriver, remove the thermocouple from the gas valve and check the millivolts on the thermocouple. Place one lead on the copper tubing and the other lead on the end of the thermocouple, the silver looking part that touches the inside of the gas valve. With the pilot flame on you should read anywhere from 22-29 millivolts. Anything below that is a sign that your thermocouple is failing. It might work for awhile, but it will probably go out in the middle of a long cold winter night. ;)
No. The pilot valve is closed when no flame is sensed by the thermocouple.
It is most likely the thermocouple that is bad. That is what keeps the pilot light on. The thermocouple is the small tube that sits in the flame of the pilot and runs to the control valve.
In terms of security, the thermocouple is an integral component of the furnace. A little flame that burns continuously is a thermocouple. It is frequently employed in gas furnaces that have standing pilots. In order to maintain a warm tip, the thermocouple's top is placed in the flame. When the pilot flame goes out, the thermocouple automatically shuts off the gas valve in the furnace. Thermocouples are used in everyday good ,electric power generator etc you can avail thermocouple for best price at partshnc website
valve stem seals