Usually to the motor housing. Might be OK hooked to the door frame too. Kinda whatever works.
the door
If your connecting a stereo, it's always best to ground directly to the negative side of the battery: however you can connect to a ground under the dash also. Some autos have a ground block at the fuse panel that can also be used but you will need a spade connector. your cars body is the ground.connect the stereo ground to a metal part of the car,leave the battery connected to a ground,engine should also be connected to a ground
It could be a fuse, check the fuse panel. It could also be a short in the window wire or a short on the way to the window wire.
i am going to be doing this this weekend....this is how my chilton says to do it lower window to down position(if you can) remove door panel remove window weatherstripping remove black window surrond(should be a screw on top of surrond towards back edge) then stationary window should unbolt then remove pins that hold operator to track pick up and pull out the operating window
First remove the door panel with 5 screws - don't forget the one behind the door lever! With screws removed, carefully lift up and out - then unhook the door lever from the latching mechanism, and unplug the connectors for the windows and mirror and locks. Now that you have full access to the innards of the door, figure out what went wrong and fix it! That's all I got for now. Hopefully somebody can explain the details of the window mechanism including cables and stuff.
Remove doop panel, remove dust cover, remove two nuts holding window, unbolt guide post, unbolt motor, swing assembly thru openning
there is no ground in a car electrical system.
Connect other end to the ground lug in the service entrance part of your panel.
If you're asking whether you have to connect the fixture ground to the house ground, you do. The idea is to connect any exposed portion of a metal fixture to ground, keeping anything you would be able to touch from having a hazardous potential on it. The way to do this is to connect the fixture ground (which is connected to the metal chassis) to the building ground (which comes from your electrical panel).
Many panels do not have a ground buss. Look for a set of screws mounted directly on the back of the panel adjacent to the breaker outputs. These are to be used for the ground wires. Square D panels are one of many that use this configuration.
The new cooktop has a 4 wire connection. Red & Black are hot. White is neutral, and green is ground. You existing panel is wired with 3 wires. Black & Red are hot and green is ground. There is no neutral wire. Connect the black to black, red to red, and then connect the white and ground together at the plug.
Panel
take of the door panel and apply power and ground to the motor only takes about 10 minutes to get the panel on and off.
you need to remove the inner door panel. Usually pop grommets but may be screwed. That will give you acess to the crank and the inner workings of the door to remove and connect a power window if needed.
Any ground wire has to be connected to an independent ground wire that returns directly to the distribution panel and not to the neutral of the circuit.
I assume you mean you are wiring a 220 volt circuit. You will install a 220 volt double pole breaker of the correct size for the circuit. An example would be for an electric dryer that requires a 30 amp double pole breaker wired with 10/3 wire. You connect the Red & Black wires to the breaker. One on each screw. You now connect the White wire to the neutral bus bar in the service panel. Then connect the bare copper ground wire to the ground bus bar in the service panel. At the dryer outlet connect the black & red to the hot screws, white to the neutral, and ground to ground. They will be labeled on the back of the outlet.
I always connect the ground wire to the box. However, if there is no real ground wire running back to the panel it really does you no good. The NEC requires that you rewire the circuit with the proper conductors. Remember that the ground is for your protection. Without a proper ground, you run the risk of injury or death if the fixture wiring fails.
A typical panel has three large wires entering the main panel from the electric meter and a bare ground wire. Two of the large wires are hot and go to the busses where the breakers are mounted. The third wire is common and is connected to one or more common bus locations. It will usually be silver in color with a screw on top to connect white wires from branch circuits. The ground is the metal of the panel itself and there will be one or more ground busses usually copper colored that are connected to the metal of the panel by screws there by "bonding" these ground busses to the metal of the panel. You should also see a copper wire coming from a ground rod connected to the metal of the panel. At the main panel you need to bond the common to the ground. There is usually a screw that allows this bonding to occur. If you have subpanels ground and common are NOT connected at the subpanels.