did you try to loosen the bleeder screw before using the c clamps You have to turn the piston clockwise in order for it to go back into the caliper.
The "bleeder screws" that come to mind are:Brake bleed - found at each wheel caliper / wheel cylinderEngine coolant - NOT found on a Windstar engine. Cooling system bleeding/burping is basically through just running the engine with the coolant reservoir cap off.
Remove caliper,rotor comes right out
7mm Allen wrench
There is NO adjustment screw ANY where on the caliper. When putting new pads in, the caliper piston must be pushed in so it fits over the new pads.
I have a 2003 Escape and it took a 7 mm socket.
It should have a bleeder screw on top of the thermostat housing.
- remove wheel - remove clips holding pads on - loosen bleeder valve and compress cylinder - remove recessed bolt on back of caliper (10mm deep socket) - remove caliper - slide pads off
Well ont my Protoege 5 it may not be the right way but on the rear Caliper I disconnected the brake line from the Caliper due to the fact that the bleeder vlave was froze. Then removed the top screw on the Claiper pulled the Caliper free from the rotor and removed the old pads. Then turnrd the piston clockwise until it was retracted far enough to replace the pads. Then on the front remove the bottom screw from the Caliper pull up the front Caliper until it cleaars the rotor. Remove the old pads and with a large channel lock type pliers I squeezed the piston back all the way until it was almost fluch with the housing of the Caliper and replace your pads and rotor if necessary or have them turned. You want to be vareful not to damage the rubber boot. Make sure you fill those screw boots on the Calipers with a good brake type grease.
You twist it in. use a big screw driver or big flat object to screw it in counter clockwise. You will see a big slit in the piston to do this
Yes! There is! At least on a 2002 Montana! It cost me $110.00 to find this out the hard way. If you change your calipers, take extreme care to put the new ones on the same way the old ones came of. It has to do with the height of the bleeder screw, believe it or not. If you get them on the wrong side, you can't bleed all the air out. Nobody told me this when I bought the new ones. Be careful!
First unbolt the slide bolts and pull the caliper from the rotor. Take the pads out. Then support the caliper with wire or bungee cord or whatever. Now also support the new caliper near the old one. Undo the bolt that the line goes to and remove it . Now bolt the bolt to the new caliper. MAKE SURE to use new brass washers usually supplied with the new caliper. Remove the old caliper out of the way. Put the new pads in and replace the caliper onto the rotor. Then bleed the caliper. There is a bleed screw on the caliper. Connect a plastic see-through tube to this bleed screw then have someone pump the brakes and hold them. Open this screw to push the air out. Keep doing this until you see nothing but fluid in the tube. Its easier if you use a closed ended wrench with tube running through it to do this. Now it should be done. Good luck.