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Man I searched this for hours and said screw it and ripped my car apart. Pull out your stereo, and on the left side inside the hole, its mounted to the side. theres 1 bolt on the bottom that holds it in. unscrew that and it pulls down. they you may have 3-4 connectors depending on the transmission options. note the clear number on the plastic case. If you get a replacement, make sure that number is the same as what you pulled. I found one on Ebay for 19.95. Thats probably cheaper than the Junk yard, so dont get yourself dirty if you can buy it "known good" online.

2001 Ford Explorer XLT AWD 4 door 4,0L

I'll drop this too because I hated not getting the info I needed online and spent 2 days reading. Hayes repair book doesnt tell you crap. you can search online documents and pictures of wiring diagrams with no luck, so this is what i learned:

If you have a VSS problem, thats vehicle speed sensor, its located on the rear differential on the top. they say look for chipped gears inside but thats a long shot. I checked the teeth on the "tone ring"(i think thats name) by feeling through the hole with sensor out. kick the tire while jacked up and trans in neutral.. finger on the gears, spin one revolution, no breaks? its good. Vss resistance is like 26 ohms or go check it online. put metal to the sensor, and resistance will jump to infinity and back. thats good.

Confusing about speed sensors on these vehicles ! ! the transmission speed sensor, mine is 5R55E trans. is on the top, 3/4 of the way back. Its another magnetic one like the VSS on differential. torx screw on top, pulls right out. resistance is around 40 ohms. same test as VSS to see it operate. check the connector. does it plug on tight? check the square sockets in the connector. they may need to be tightened. a code Po720 is this sensor, not the VSS on the differential.

If you have a transfer case, they have 2 speed sensors on them too. one is behind the motor that shifts lo to high. 4 bolts takes it off. these are supposedly hall effect transistors (thats why theres 3 wires). Careful pulling them out. the one is below the motor, the other is on the very rear of the transfer case.. (and those wires are tight).. take both out with care. if you get new ones at junk yard, pull out the motor and 2 sensors all at one time and disconnect the large plug that connects them all. there is one Grey wire that goes to the back of the transfer case.. thats for an electric clutch... (power goes to it and it locks gears inside)... pull out the red thing in the connector and pull the tab by the pin, and pull that grey one out. now you can take the motor, and 2 sensors out all at one time. then pull the pins out for the 2 sensors. take home, do the same with the one on your car and just plug the pins in. The transfer case aparently watches the speed in and out of it for the computer.

Also another thing is there is a Transfer case relay. Its located behind the Transmission control module. (about 4 inches from the bottom) its grey, and match the numbers on it to your cars.. they're mostly all the same.

Another tip. The VSS vehicle speed sensor on the differential.. i followed the wires looking for a short... they come around the back of the car, then up under the driver seat, front center. then out again and across the running step board. then out under the dash left most, bottom in that huge harness. the wire colors should be RED/Pink, Green/Black. (or similar).. they then go out to the ABS unit behind the Battery. I measured 2k ohms at the ABS Connector. (good) from there it supposedly goes to the PCM (car computer) on a grey wire but i had no luck following that).. hope this helps someone save some time.

also transmission, under pan, valve body with solenoids. the solenoids shift the valves to change the shift gears.. its controlled by the PCM. some of these can be bad. the valve body has a known problem where it mounts to the bottom of the transmission, the gasket breaks and the shifting goes off.. hard shifts etc. basically the fluids pump across grooves and throw each other off. I found valve body with solenoids tested good on ebay for 120.00. this is a major concern for this model car.

also the myth about transmission bands. Not hard at all. the adjustments are on the outside of the transmission. on the driver side toward the front of the car is the overdrive band.. its a nut 3/4 with a center screw with a square head on it around 3/8. You need a 8 edge socket to grab this square thing. (or the socket with a lot of internal edges) technique is crack open the 3/4 nut, screw in the center screw with a torque wrench to 10 ft pounds (120 inch pounds) then back out the center screw 2 turns. (older cars could be 2.5 so recheck this). the second band is in the center of the transmission, looks the same from the outside. do the same thing for this. its called the internediate band and im not sure what it does. (mid gears?) the last band is for the reverse and 1st gear. THIS ONE HAS NO ADJUSTMENT.

If you have a broken band, if you screw in the inner screw and it doesnt tighten,, the band could be broken. this means it has to be taken apart. dont unscrew the bold and nut all the way, it could disenguage from the band and i heard its real hard to get it back in, (if at all).. you may need to put Teflon tape on the nut too, its on mine and i read it could leak. the shift cable is in the way of these too.. annoying i know.

One last thing... if your transmission hard clunks into reverse, or delays into reverse or 1st gear.. open the trans drain pan. on one end of the valve body there is a round /square thing on one side. this is a pump of some sort. there are 4 bolts holding it in.. inside is a piston that can be pulled down without anything falling out. There is a large o ring on this. I read put on a vita? ring on there, and the piston wont slip fluid by it and will get your shift to drive or reverse working like new again.

Scott

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Q: Where is the transmission control module on a 2001 Ford Explorer sport trac?
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