Where is the water pump located on a 1997 Ford Contour 2.5 V6?

Answer 1

Perhaps this will help... for a complete R/R I just replaced the WP on a 96 2.5 as follows... DANGEROUS CHEMICAL NOTICE REGARDING GLYCOL BASED COOLANT: WASH DOWN THE WORK AREA COMPLETELY WITH WATER REMOVING ALL TRACES OF COOLANT. ANIMALS AND SMALL CHILDREN LIKE THE TASTE OF COOLANT AND IT IS FATAL- REPEAT- FATAL, THIS COULD BE YOUR CHILD OR PET. DISPOSE OF COOLANT PROPERLY, CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL GARAGE OR AUTO PARTS STORE. Viewing the engine from the front of the car, there is a plastic cover between the FWD cylinder bank and the front frame. Remove the 3x screws w/ 7mm; there is the WP on the right hand side at the bottom of the belt. WITH THE ENGINE DEAD (overnight) COLD REMOVE the battery completely, 10mm wrench for clamps, deep 10mm for hold-down nuts. Place a nice size (3gal) tub under the car and loosen the coolant cap- left side, looking aft. Remove the clamps on the short rubber hose between the forward metal pipe that runs under the fwd cyl, bank and the thermostat assembly; remove the short rubber hose. Below the thermostat is an electrical connector (MTX), push down on the tab, pull back out of the way. bag it if you're paranoid or just use a good contact cleaner upon re-assembly Undo the 1 in diam. coolant hose just aft of the thermostat assembly; that's why there's a coupler there. Remove the FWD of the thermostat assembly, 2 x 8mm, remove T-stat an crushed O-ring, replace both upon re-assembly... about $12.00 On the top left side of the belt tensioner, there's a notch for a screwdriver blade. Push the tensioner back and remove the belt. Remove the tensioner assembly 1x 8mm. Remove all bolts holding the WP, (Long and short 8mm and 1/4 in flex drive is really nice) start at the thru-bolt nearest the top and lay out in sequence of removal on the plastic trim piece in front of the front windscreen (96) Look down from the top of the WP and you will see an area where you can place a large screwdriver blade and GENTLY torque off the right side of the WP. Scrape off the old gasket material on the engine side, look for debris and trouble. NOT IN THE MANUAL! Affix the new WP gasket to the WP with a THIN coating of #2 NON-hardening Permatex; do NOT use on the engine side. Align all holes on the gasket, remove excess, set by gently warming with a hair dryer. Make sure it's tacky enough that the gasket doesn't move around Replace WP, replace bolts in sequence with a final cross-pattern torquing of ONE finger's torque on the wrench. Replace tensioner. Replace new thermostat vent rivet to the top, O-ring goes on the outside of the assy. connect front of assembly 2x 8mm Clean electrical connector with spray contact cleaner that IS SAFE for plastic, DO NOT use brake-kleen. Check to make sure it's locked down. Replace WP drive belt per decal on front frame. Replace short connector hose and clamps . Re-connect 1" coolant line Replace a few quarts of coolant and check for leaks, engine off (Don't ask me why)NO LEAKS? Proceed. Replace front cover, 3x 7mm Install battery, fire up, check for leaks WASH DOWN THE WORK AREA COMPLETELY WITH WATER REMOVING ALL TRACES OF COOLANT. ANIMALS AND SMALL CHILDREN LIKE THE TASTE OF COOLANT AND IT IS FATAL- REPEAT- FATAL, THIS COULD BE YOUR CHILD OR PET. DISPOSE OF COOLANT PROPERLY, CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL GARAGE OR AUTO PARTS STORE. For anyone working on a car's cooling system, you MUST check out the MUST-HAVE tool for dealing with those spring-type hose clamps!!

This tool has a pinching device on the end to securely grab the 'ears' on the hose clamp - squeeze the handle to open the clamp, and then automatically lock it open.

The next awesome feature of this tool: the clamping action is on the end of a cable - you work it down to the clamp buried down underneath, or directly next to some part of the engine - minimal clearance required. The very very best $40 you will ever invest into your tool collection!

Sears makes one - check it out at a local store and linked below.