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All the Chevy and GM cars I've had with rear drum brakes occasionally grab, especially right after a heavy rain. If it's doing it consistently, however, you'll want to check to make sure you don't have a leaking wheel cylinder. Remove the wheel and pull off the drum. You'll see brake fluid where it's not supposed to be. With a small screwdriver, gently pry up the edges of the rubber boots on the wheel cylinder to see whether they're full of brake fluid. If so, replace the wheel cylinder, top up the reservoir and bleed the brakes. If you've never replaced rear brake shoes, take some pictures of all the springs, levers, etc., before disassembly and take your time, carefully noting how everything is arranged. This is not difficult, but it is exacting and there are a dozen or so small pieces of hardware that all must be reassembled just right. It also helps to have tools for both the hold-down and return springs to save your fingers and make reassembly easier. If no leakage, you might want to check the brake shoe adjustment. With the small screwdriver, hold the self-adjuster lever away from the star adjuster and with another screwdriver turn it the same direction the self-adjuster would automatically turn it. After a few turns, put the drum back on, push the brakes to center the shoe, and with the drum pushed firmly against the hub, turn it. If you get any binding, or the drum won't go back on, back the adjuster out a turn. Normally, the self-adjusting mechanism takes care of this, but sometimes it fails to do so adequately, especially if the star adjuster lacks lubrication or is otherwise hard to turn. I don't think this car has an adjustment port in the backing plate, but those that do can allow you to adjust the brakes without removing the drum, which makes it easier to tell when you've adjusted them too tight.

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Q: Why do rear brakes grab on 1989 celebrity eurosport?
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