Hey Ken==The radiator cap isn't sealing. Replace it. GoodluckJoe
If replacing the radiator cap is not enough then look at your radiator as the problem. Your radiator when the car is running should be the same temperature top to bottom. Run your hand down the radiator (careful you can burn yourself) and see if it is cool toward the bottom. If it is cool at the bottom but hot at the top your radiator is clogged. Flush does not work so save your money. I would start looking online for a new radiator their cheap enough. Good luck.
If it still vents with a new cap then the excessive pressure could be due to a blown head gasket pushing combustion pressure into the coolant system, if the vehicle has been overheated recently it is a good possibility
I had the same problem. Check your upper and lower radiator hoses. You might also need to replace your thermostat. The thermostat is a spring seal for coolant. These get stuck open and closed often for civics in the 1990's. I had to replace mine 2 times within a month. Part of it was my fault, because i drove it like i stole it. When your engine gets hot, the thermostat opens up and lets coolant in. When it is too cold, it closes and doesn't let coolant into your engine so it will warm up. Your thermostat probably got stuck closed. Also, check the little hose running from the reservoir tank to the radiator, it might be clogged.
Why does the radiator fill up the reservoir
It sounds like you have a blown head gasket. Combustion gases can enter the cooling system through either a blown head gasket or cracked cylinder head. The gases (under pressure) force coolant out of the reservoir. This also causes a void in the upper part of the cooling system , leaving no coolant at the thermostat and the coolant temperature sending unit. The result is a erroneous temperature Reading and will even prevent the thermostat from opening.
A cracked radiator would leak the fluid out, leaving no coolant for your engine which would cause your engine to overheat and be destroyed pretty quickly. So the answer is NO.
Allow the car to cool. Remove radiator cap. Add water or coolant to fill radiator. Start engine leaving cap off. check to see if coolant is circulating in radiator. Locate upper rad hose, and squeeze to move air bubbles out, or to ecourage circulation. If large air bubble works its way out, add coolant to fill. Once coolant starts to expand and spill out, replace cap. Watch temperature gauge to esure the problem has been rectified. You may have to repeat this procedure.
TO MAKE A LONG STORY SHORT I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. I FOUND THAT THE COOLANT OUTLET CAP WAS NOT PROPERLY SEALING DUE TO CORROSION ON THE SEAT LIP OF THE OUTLET. THIS WAS CAUSING A WEEPING OF COOLANT TO THE RESERVOIR AND A LOSS OF PRESSURE REQUIRED TO PREVENT BOIL OVER. MY CHEAP SOLUTION WAS TO CAP THE COOLANT LINE TO THE RESERVOIR. PROBLEM SOLVED. If you replaced two caps then I doubt those caps are the problem...there is something else causing the pressure to be too great and thus flow out. You could have a bad head gasket, which allows the pressure from the combustion chamber to flow into the cooling circuit creating to great of pressure for the cap, and thus, flows out. Just capping that line cripples the functionality of your cooling system, it is designed to make use of the overflow tank, you shouldn't just disable it like that. IF your head gasket IS going out, the blocking the overflow tank will cause EXTREME pressure to build up, now your going to blow the radiator and your engine. Cheaper to fix the head gasket and keep the old radiator then replace a radiator and a head gasket. On a cold start, stand behind your car, someone starts the car, smell for coolant. When the car gets cold, the higher pressure in the cooling circuit could cause coolant to flow in the engine, so on a cold start, you may smell it. After it starts though, the coolant may not flow into the cylinders. Get a coolant tester kit to check for exhaust gases in your coolant, you can find them at your automotive stores. You may not see white smoke coming from the tail pipe after the car has warmed up because the coolant may not flowing into the engine combustion chamber while it is running...but you might see white smoke. I'm diagnosing my fiance's car right now with this same situation...new water pump, new radiator cap, etc etc...head gasket is the next possibility.
It could be a damaged or loose radiator hose, a damaged radiator, a faulty radiator cap, blown head gasket. Have a look around all the hoses and see where the water is coming from and then use common sense.
The expansion tank retains coolant in a reservoir that's been forced out of the car's radiatior under pressure. As you run your car, the temprerature of the coolant circulating through the water jackets naturally increases causing increasing pressure in the cooling system. When the pressure builds to a high enough point, the radiatior cap allows that pressure to escape into the coolant reservoir through a small black rubber tube, called an overflow tube connected by the neck of the radiator to the expansion tank. Most of the coolant that is forced into the expansion tank returns to the radiator naturally after a few hours or when the engine is cold. If you had no expansion tank on your car, then the coolant that was released under pressure would spill out onto the road. It also helps by dissipating air bubles that have accumulated in the system. If you keep having to fill the expansion tank with large amounts of coolant every day, more than a cupfull, then there is likely a small leak somewhere else in the system. That could also be due to a faulty radiator cap (which you should always replace first before worrying youself stupid), a faulty radiator (blockage), water pump or hoses or in the worst case scenario-a blown head gasket or cracked block. If in doubt, have the radiator pressure tested at 15psi to determine where the leak is coming from, also have the radiator coolant tested with a special plastic tube contaning blue liquid that sticks in the radiator neck to measure whether exhaust gases are mixing with the coolant. It takes seconds to do and turns yellow if the result is positive leaving you with a very expensive repair for a new head gasket. If not, thank your lucky stars.
Lower radiator hose.
lower radiator hose
check to make sure there is coolant in the radiator. if not, fill it, and bleed the air from the system by leaving the radiator cap off until it has warmed until normal operating temperature. Keep topping off the radiator, then cap when it stays full.
Most of the time the radiator fluid fails to complete its circuit and is probably clogged leaving it to overheat -------------- Bad thermostat Bad head gasket Cracked head Low coolant level Debris in the radiator fins Cooling system may need flushing
The thermostat is key to maintaining relatively constant temperatures. It is basically a temp. sensitive spring operating a plug. It can be open or closed or partially open, depending on the engine temperature. When the car is cold, the thermostat almost completely prevents coolant from entering or leaving the engine. As the engine warms up to operating temperature and higher, the thermostat opens and allows coolant to circulate from the engine to the radiator. If the engine becomes too cool, the thermostat will close again. Coolant circulation is aided by the waterpump. When the engine's heat contained in the coolant reaches the radiator, it passes through a maze of finned tubes which allow the heat to transfer to the air flowing through (sometimes aided by a fan) the radiator. Now the cooled coolant circulates back into the engine to absorb more heat and repeat the cycle.
search for the drain cup on the radiator, remove the lower radiator belt from the radiator and aim at a bucket to clean the antifreeze out of both the radiator and the engine. Crank engine over for a maximum of 5 seconds, remove sparkplugs so engine can't start. Once the engine and the radiator have stopped leaking coolant (may take 20-30 minutes), re-attach lower rad hose to both lower engine and radiator. Open vent cap on radiator look at the thermostat housing for a bleed valve, fill radiator, re-install spark plugs, crank engine over to force coolant from radiator to engine, leaving bleed valve open while you continue to fill the radiator until you have a steady stream with no air being released from the bleed valve, close bleed valve. Replace rad cap, allow engine to run 2-3 minutes, check temp gage for engine temp. Open rad cap, check level of coolant in rad. Top up fluid to just below the rad cap or the marked fill line on the radiator spout. If the engine is running warmer than normal, allow engine to continue to run, re-open bleed valve until vapour lock exits bleed valve and you again have a steady stream of coolant allowing engine to continue to run. Check temp gage to verify thermostat is operational and engine is at normal operating temp. If still running warmer than usual, redo the steps to remove any trapped air (vapour lock) until engine runs at normal operating temp. Fill engine coolant reservoir to maximum line and you should be fine
Drain the radiator. Leaving the drain plug open, run water from a hose into the radiator and continue to flush until the out coming water is clear.
The obvious would be coolant leaking out and leaving puddles on the ground. The less obvious would be coolant leaking into the engine and mixing with the engine oil. You may see evidence of coolant under the oil fill cap or on the dipstick itself when you pull out the dipstick. This is something you don't want to happen. This can cause serious damage to internal engine parts. So, if the coolant level in the reservoir keeps dropping and you don't see any leakage on the ground, it is probably getting into the engine.
When you mentioned you had checked for correct coolant levels what do you mean or think is correct? If you are filling the coolant level to the top of the radiator neck when the engine is cold (then you are overfiling the radiator - keep in mind your vehicle does not have a coolant recovery tank), once the engine heats up the coolant will expand and if the radiator was filled to the top of the radiator the expanding coolant will overcome the cap pressure (listed in psi on the top of the cap)I would recommend leaving the coolant level down approximately 1 inch from the overflow hose. If you are not overfilling the coolant level then it could be caused by a defective radiator cap. The pressure rating on the cap can be used to test the relief valve by using a radaitor/cap pressure tester (your local parts store more than likey has one that is available for customer use. Bottom line is a typical radiator should have a rating of 14 or 15 pounds. When they test the cap it should hold whatever the rating is on the cap. You will notice when the cap is tested it will quickly go t the rated pressure and slightly above then it should release the excess and remain at the prescibed poundage rating on the cap. If it does not hold replace the radiator cap. When you replace the cap I highly recmmend that you order one from your local GM dealer, due to the mettaurgy of the radiator (usually aluminum) if you put on a normal radiator cap you may end up with a problem with electrolysis which could cause pin holes in your radiator, heater core and even possibly in heavier metal parts. Again I would highly recommend that you replace it with OEM parts. Do not rely on the individual behind the counter at a non dealer parts house. He or she may not have the technical training and it couldcost you a $1,000.00 radiator. As I indicated earlier it is important to insure the radiator cap is working properly since 1 # of pressure increases the boiling point of water 3 degrees (at sea level). For example a 15 # radiator cap X 3 degrees would equate to raising the boiling point 45 degrees (3 X 15 = 45), add the 45 degrees to 212 degrees (the boiling point of water) and you end up with a boiling point of 257 degrees. When a car has a 190 degree thermostat it is designed to keep the car at approx 190 degrees as long as the car is running which will allow the water pump to circulate the coolant through the radiator which will allow the heat to disipate from the cooling system. When you turn an engine off the coolant temperature will raise 20 to 50 degrees, if it is already at 1190 degrees when running and it raises 30 degrees the temp of the water now exceeds the boiling point of water at sea level (if the radiator cap is not working the pressure would be the same as atmosheric presure) in other words the temp would be 190 + 30 = 220 degrees or 8 degrees above boiling and the coolant will boil and overflow. To diagnose your problem determine the proper coolant level, insure the cap holds the proper pressure and if there are stil problems you may have a radiator of coolant circulation problem with the engine. I did not discuss the fact that properly mixed oolant will also raise the boiling point of the coolant but the mi is more than likely not the issue unless you have pure anti-freeze. Good Luck Rich firstname.lastname@example.org
The meaning of coolant in a nuclear power plant is the same as the coolant in your car's gasoline or diesel engine: a fluid that flows through the system to remove heat. After that the heat is disposed of differently: in your car the coolant just passes through the car's radiator where the heat is disposed of as waste; in the nuclear power plant the coolant passes through a heat exchanger/steam generator to boil water and make steam and the steam is used to turn turbines that turn generators to make electricity, finally the spent steam from the turbines passes through a gigantic radiator inside a cooling tower where the remaining heat is disposed of as waste (water is usually sprayed over this gigantic radiator to make the disposal of waste heat more rapid, causing the large white clouds often seen leaving these towers that some people mistake for smoke). In both cars and nuclear power plants the cooling system is a closed loop, with the coolant returned after its heat is removed or transferred on.
Yes and keeps it working. Heat created by the burning of fuel in the combustion chambers needs to be removed quickly to prevent the engine form seizing. This is done in water cooled vehicles (Air is used in some older design cars) by a reservoir of liquid coolant (It used to be water) which is pumped through chambers in the cylinder head and engine block. The coolant is then passed through a radiator which exposes a large area of metal to air being forced into it by a fan or through the forward movement of the vehicle. The water pump (misnomer it should be coolant pump) is used to circulate the coolant through the radiator and engine to ensure the efficient cooling of the engine. If there was no water pump or it failed, the water would quickly boil resulting in the overheating of the car engine. The oil that is used to lubricate the engine would then boil and burn leaving residues which would literally glue the moving parts of the engine together. In extreme cases the metal can soften melt and smear. This is known as a seized engine.
In an emergency situation you can add water. But coolant contains anti-corrosive additives that prevent rust. Leaving plain water in your engine will eventually destroy it
Why not try for the simple solutions first before you decide to tear the engine apart to replace a head gasket. Can you find anyplace where the hoses, radiator or water pump have a buildup of coolant colored mineral. Often a slow leak will evaporate quickly, leaving a colored mineral deposit. Check the bottom of the water pump and look for signs around the radiator and hoses. Make sure your overflow is working properly, since it's intended to accept small amounts of coolant as the engine warms, then give back as the engine cools again. In general, if you're not blowing the coolant out, it's probably not a head gasket. If theres coolant in your oil.. then you have head gasket problems
The wind blows against the radiator keeping it cool which cools the engine, if it didn't the pistons would enlarge cause of the extreme temperature and could explode leaving your car a write off!
Streams leaving a mountain range deposit a large part of the load in a delta. A delta is located at the mouth of a river where it flows into an ocean, sea, estuary, lake, or reservoir.
First: Is there enough coolant/antifreeze in the radiator? Don't just look inside the plastic overflow bottle, but remove the radiator cap (when the engine is cold) and look inside the radiator. You should be able to physically see the fluid level if it is at its proper level. Most cars and trucks will hold 1 1/2-2 gallons of coolant and water mixture. If you have to add more than a pint of fluid you should have the cooling system pressure tested for a leak. If you see any obvious fluid loss on the ground or in the engine compartment, you should also have the system tested for leaks. Second: If no coolant leak or low fluid level is present, then determine when the overheating complaint occurs. If the engine overheats while at a stop or idle only: Most front wheel drive cars use an electric cooling fan motor located in front or behind the radiator. The function of the cooling fan is to improve airflow across the radiator at stops and low speeds. The fan is controlled by sensors that regulate the engine temperature and additional load that might be placed on the engine. The air conditioning compressor will require the cooling fan to operate at idle as long as the compressor is on. A quick way to check the cooling fan operation is to turn on the air conditioner. The cooling fan should come on with the air conditioner compressor. Some cars will have two electric fans, one is for the radiator and the other is the air conditioner condenser fan. Usually the radiator fan is closer to the middle of the radiator. The radiator fan is responsible for engine cooling, and the condenser fan is responsible for increasing air conditioning efficiency at idle and low speed. If your vehicle does not have an electric cooling fan on the radiator it will have a belt driven fan blade and fan clutch. This fan should be pulling a large amount of warm to hot air across the radiator onto the engine. What you want to determine with either fan situation is that there is ample airflow across the radiator at idle. The radiator is the primary heat exchange for the engine, and airflow is crucial. What if the engine overheats while at high speeds on the freeway? Again, airflow and coolant circulation are crucial. At 55 MPH we can assume you have ample airflow across the radiator, so proper antifreeze circulation is the thing to inspect. I compare overheating at 55MPH to jogging with a sock in your mouth. The faster and longer you jog, the more air you are going to require, and with a sock in your mouth you are going to have to breath extra hard to maintain the proper amount of air to keep you going. At 55MPH the water pump is pumping a large amount of hot antifreeze throughout the cooling system. If there is a restriction in the system like a kinked radiator hose, a restricted radiator, or a stuck thermostat, it will produce the same affect as the sock in the mouth scenario. Rust and water calcification can accumulate in the radiator and drastically reduce the flow of coolant at high speeds. Removing the radiator from the vehicle for disassembly and cleaning or radiator replacement are the only two real cures for a clogged radiator. Using a can of "radiator flush" additive might help as preventive maintenance, but will probably just be a waste of time and money trying to correct a restricted radiator. Of course there are more technical issues that could produce an overheating complaint, but the check list described above will identify the most common. Anything you can do to help the mechanic diagnose the problem will probably result in less diagnostic charges to you, and might help insure a proper diagnosis of the problem. Pontiac Fiero cooling system issues With the mid-mounted engine and long pipes carrying coolant to the front-mounted radiator, the Fiero was also prone to overheating if the cooling system had not been properly filled. Simply pouring coolant into the thermostat housing (on the engine) would leave a large bubble in the radiator, while adding coolant to the radiator would cause a large bubble in the engine's coolant passages. The classic symptom of a cooling system problem was that the temperature gauge swung wildly as large air pockets passed through the system. Of course, sudden temperature swings were likely to cause cracked heads and blocks or other engine damage. Owners who failed to follow the coolant fill procedure listed in the owner's manual for their car often had problems. ****The above is a generic answer which is correct for most cars... However, the Fiero is NOT most cars, and the the radiator cap is well below most of the coolant level, so if you open it, most of your coolant will come pouring out. There are 3 very common reasons for the Fiero to overheat: 1. The cooling system was improperly filled, leaving air pockets. 2. The electric fan isn't coming on 3. The car was improperly jacked up previously, crushing the coolant lines underneath, limiting coolant flow
I asume you have found no obvious leaks in your cooling system, but your coolant level keeps going down anyways. Two possible causes, one every expensive, one very cheap. You may have a blown head gasket or cracked head. In that case, get ready to pay. However, you may just have a bad radiator cap. I learned this after I was told I'd need a $2,000.00 top end job on my Chevy Suburban: If the small rubber seal in the radiator cap goes bad it can allow the coolant to escape the system in the form of vapor during driving, leaving no puddles. Instead of wasting two grand replacing the heads, a simple $8.00 radiator cap saved the day. I Hope this helps you out. P.B.