I'm supposing all other rads on the system are hot? If so, it sounds like you either have a flow problem, check wheel-head and locksheild valves are open. If they are you'll need to determine if water is actually passing the valve when open by un-doing the joint. I assume when you bled the valve air followed by water under pressure followed? If this occurred it's likely there is suitable flow and that the radiator itself is blocked with sediment.
The most cost effective measure is to remove rad and flush out individually with hose pipe, remembering to lock of valves before hand.
Observe how much silt/rust deposits comes out. Flush till clean and refit, open valves and re-bleed, see how you go. Are you using inhibitor in the system do you have an engineer service it every 12 months.
well it goes like dis bled... hay buissness woman whats your buissness woman, even though it ain't none of my buissness woman BLED/WORD
It's probably not getting heated coolant to the radiator. Check the heater control valve and the control on the dasboard.
If it is indoors it may be drying out by being too close to a radiator.
coolant is most likely leaking into combustion chamber,via cracked head
Yes , if the engine is cold
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u dont even know well i am not telling u
remove the splash guard on the bottom, and it will be on the drivers side of the car, by the side of the radiator facing the back of the car, just past the left most part of the radiator, undo from the bottom of the car, even though it is NOT visable from the bottom.
If it hurt or bled, otherwise not.
I've tried even 25 pellets at once but my tongue never bled.
IT is because warm air does out side and cooled air com inside
I would say that your heater core is ok...it sounds like you have a bled door promlem in the dash.