Defective voltage regulator, which is built into the alternator. Have the alternator tested. Most auto parts store will do this for free.
It is normal for this gauge to read a little over 13 volts.The extra voltage is necessary to "push" the current into the battery to recharge it.My vehicle sometimes reads in access of 14 volts
When your battery gage reads high, it means that your voltage regulator is shot. Your voltage is too high. You are about to wreck your battery and some of your electronics. You are facing an extremely expensive repair job if you do not get a fairly inexpensive part fixed.
My rpm light came on but not my check engine light so what does that mean when the rpm light is on
On my 1995 Ford Explorer the " check gage " light will come on if the engine coolant temperature is TOO HIGH , the oil pressure is TOO LOW , or the fuel gauge is at or near empty
There may be a problem with the alternator not putting out enough voltage. There could also be a problem with the oxygen censor malfunctioning as well.
check to see if there is a red button in the fuse box next to the battery. if there is push that and it should reset the oil change light.
The fuel gages, the battery gage, the oil pressure gage, and the coolant gage are on the upper instrument cluster?
The best and easyest ways to tell would be to use a voltage tester/volt meter with the engine running. I would take the volt meter and hook it up to the battery and take a reading with the engine running around 1000 R.P.M. .The average reading should be around 13.50 to 14.50 volts DC (this is with a 12 volt system) the truck should have something on the dash to indacate the status of the charging system,some times its a amp gage or a bulb.If you have a bulb system,the light should be out while the engine is running. To check the bulb with the engine off,key on the bulb should be lit,this is a way to check the bulb. the bulb should also be lit while cranking. If you have a gage-the gage is either volts or amps. if the gage reads in volts the reading should be simler to the volt meter reading that was taken at the battery. If you have a amp gage-their usually have a zero in the middle of the gage, usually to the left of the zero would indacate a negitive numbernot charging,if the reading is to the right of the zero that would indacate charging(note:amp readinga are with engine running @ 1000 R.P.M.) also note the you ahould have all accories turned off.
Check the charging system first. With the car running use a multimeter to see output of the alternator at the battery. Should be 13.5 + volts if the battery is not at 100% charge. If the guage is right and the voltage drops off check to be sure you have power to the back of the alternator. It's possible you may have a alternator problem or if it's externally regulated(I think it might be) a voltage regulator problem.
This is a voltage drop question. To answer this question a voltage has to be stated. The higher the voltage to the circuit becomes the smaller the wire size needed. After a certain voltage point the wire size will remain constant and the voltage drop at the load will become smaller.
The battery may be low on charge or possibly faulty.
Ignore the in-dash gauge. Find a good, well calibrated voltmeter, start the engine and test the voltage at the battery. If you're getting somewhere near 13.5 Volts with the engine just off idle, don't worry about it. If it's UNDER 12 Volts, you probably don't have a connection from the keyswitch to the alternator.