Check the level of hydraulic oil (aka brake fluid) in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. If it is empty you found your problem. Either the master or the slave cylinder is leaking.
i dont know. over heats
Yes. unless you bypass the safety device that prevents your car from starting if you dont have the clutch pressed.
these new clutches dont really have an adjustment per se but you can adjust the pedal travel to gain some time before replacement is necessary. At the floorboard where the clutch pedal is connected to the master cylinder there is a long threaded bolt through a bracket with 2 nuts on it.Move the nuts toward the end of the bolt and you will activate the clutch earlier in the pedal push. This is only for temporary help, it may not help at all depending on the condition of the clutch disk, be prepared to replace it very soon.
you dont it is a sealed hydraulic system the only thing you can adjust is the pedal travel inside the passenger comparptment
no fluid, it has a mechanical clutch cable. just like a bicycle brake cable. just bigger and beefier. there can be many causes: cable bad. pedal end feel off. bell houusing end fell off or the nut on end fell off. the throw out bearing , melted to nothing left. the clutch fingers have melted and bent due to above. the clutch plate cracked and broke up to chunks. seem them all but , bad cable. easy to test, 1 person push pedal , other look at clutch rod. if it dont move 3 inches , then cable is bad. if it does move then clutch is bad. 3 pieces, PedAL, CABLE, CLUTCH.
100 miles is my record for wrecking a clutch , racing. on road. 50k for bad driver. 100k for tons of city traffic, 150k my best . more if you have external slaves cyl, like all newer tracker have. much more. dont slip clutch. dont ride it. if a cable clutch, then keep free play of pedal at spec. 1/2 inch.
if you dont depress the pedal far enough when stationary the clutch drags a little making it difficult to engage gears push the pedal all the way and you will be ok
manual transmission:if you dont hold the clutch pedal in when you hit the brakes, then it will do that.AutoTrans: try putting in neutral before stopping
You need to find the slave cylinder (located on transmission) and have someone hold the pedal down then open valve and close when fluid stops coming out then they can release the pedal and repeat, hold pedal down (and dont move) open bleeder valve and close when fluid stops coming out, keep repeating and make sure the clutch fluid reserve does not go dry because you do not want air in system. Keep doing this until no more air comes out or you see new fluid (depending on what your trying to do). If you are trying to get clutch pedal stiffer and bleeding it does not work you may need to replace master and/or slave cylinders.
open bleeder valve on slave cylinder,gravity is going down hill,so get aclear hose and put on bleeder valve and openand pump clutch pedal until air is gone,dont let fluid get to low.
yes it does!.like all parts of a car, it depends on your driving style as well as manufacturer recomendation...for example if you tend to dump your clutch often then you clutch will need to be replaced frequently...you can tell when to replace your clutch by the feel of it when driving, if it tends to slip often or it is hard to engage a gear without depressing your clutch pedal several times, its high time to replace your clutch...when driving dont make it a habit to 'ride the clutch' ie:using your clutch when going down hill to disengage your gear without leaving the gear in neutral..
something is wrong with the clutch or something is wrong with the gas pedal. But it depends on the car. It happened the same with me with my 2009 Fararri. If its a car that will work but if its a truck than I dont know