If a switch was on the neutral wire the live wire would still be at the mains potential even when the switch was off. This would cause on en electric shock when one handles any conductor linked to the live wire
First of all, the correct term is 'line' and not 'phase' wire. The reason a switch is always placed in the line conductor, rather than in the neutral conductor, is that its function is not simply to break the circuit, but also to ensure that the circuit's load is disconnected from the line potential. If the switch were to be placed in the neutral conductor, it would still break the circuit, but the load will still be at line potential and present a shock hazard to anyone attempting to work on the load (e.g. to remove a lamp from its holder).
If an appliance is plugged in but the switch is OFF, the electrician should always consider the appliance as A. hazardous. C. safe. B. ungrounded. D. de-energized.
A Switch on a domestic supply has always got to be on the LIVE part of that circuit. A double pole switch switches both the LIVE and NEUTRAL off together.
the safest position for a switch is on the live wire and not on the neutral wire
See Discuss Question below.
It is called Double Insulated because any "hot" wires (= "live" wires in British English) inside the appliance have been made safe by using extra insulation and/or fuses to protect the user from getting a shock if the appliance suffers any damage. That is why it does not need a separate earth or ground wire. Always be sure to switch off the breakers at the main panel before you attempt to do any work on any mains power circuit.
If this is about a rebate from the state that you live in for energy efficient appliance purchases you will have to apply with your state tax department and you can probably do it at state web site. If it is from the manufacture of the appliance the dealer that sold the appliance to you should be able to help you with this.
The "can" or metal case of an appliance is supposed to be grounded so if the "live" wire touches it then the breaker or fuse will trip open and remove the power to the wire to prevent the person touching the appliance from being shocked.
Two different methods, either: 1) Faulty internal wiring is the most common cause. A live cable is somehow electrically connected to appliance. 2) Static build up, can be caused by internal mechanical movement. Note that the appliance may appear charged if a static shock is received, but the charge is not actually received from the appliance, but instead delivered to the appliance from the person.
Someone didn't know what they were doing. <<>> It could be that the switch box is used as a junction box. This is quite common in house wiring. If it is a three wire that you found this condition on then this is what is going on. If you shut the breaker off when you were working on the circuit, turn the breaker above it and the breaker below it and that should turn off the second hot wire.
So that the live wire is isolated when the fuse blows. If a fuse was placed in the neutral, the equipment would still be live when the fuse blows.
A fuse should be connected in the live wire, before reaching the appliance.
you can try appliance touch up paint but it will always stand out live with the chips it testifies to the age and good service the mixer gave you