Someone has either reversed the wires on the temperature gauge or damaged the wires from the engine to the gauge and spliced them back backwards. It is a simple reverse of polarity.
First, check your thermostat, your car may actually be overheating slightly due to the thermostat sticking. If it sticks then no anti-freeze flows through the heater core(providing the cab with heat), which will cause overheating. If it eventually opens, allowing flow, and cooling off the fluid/engine (gauge drops) then fluid flows again giving you anti-freeze through the heater core and heat pours out. Check it by removing it and putting it in a pan of water and boiling the water with a thermometer in the pan (try to hold them both off the pan surface with tongs, it may screw up your reading), watch close for the temp at which it opens, should be 180F, but check for your car.
Second step would be to check your water pump, low flow from a water pump could also cause the same problems.
After those two, "you're on your own kid"
It would be better to write: My gas gauge reads empty. Note that 'gauge' is singular, so it needs the singular verb, reads. If you had several cars all with gas gauges that read empty, then the verb would be read.
If your gauge is normal your thermostats okay, so its got to be your heater core. Usually located behind your dash board. Easy to swap just a pain to get to. Or it could be your gauge is out and your thermostats bad, but usually a couple gauges would go out with them. Hope this helps a little.
This would indicate that the system is low on coolant when the gauge is hot. Not enough coolant to service the heater core.
If you are absolutely sure you do not have air trapped in your cooling system then you may have a defective gauge if you are getting heat through your heater. Usually I would say you have a coolant flow problem with either a stuck thermostat or a bad water pump but if you have heat from your heater, then you must have circulating coolant in your system. I would check the gauge or the sensor.
A stove is a two pole 50, and hot water heater i would recommend the same.
A major clue would be the vehicle stopping.
i would recommend getting gas when that happens. perhaps take it to the mechanic to fix the gauge
check the connections behind the gauge they could pop loose
Check the coolant level, be sure it is to the full mark on the reservoir. Check the temperature gauge, when warmed up it should read aprox 200 degrees F, if not the thermostat may be stuck open, replace it. If the reservoir is full, with the engine running and the temp gauge reads aprox 200 degrees, feel the heater hoses with your hands, they should both be hot. If one is hot and the other is warm or cold, the heater is plugged and needs to be flushed. If both heater hoses are hot I would suspect the temperature blend door is at fault.
The thermostat is the most likely culprit. The major clue is that the engine temp stays in the lower middle of the gauge - the heater core would not cause this. The thermostat is most likely stuck in the open position - needs replacement.
change t.stat
1600 watts is unusually low for electric baseboard heaters! These usually are rated at about 6000 watts.Typical electric baseboard heaters operate on 220 volts thus you heater would pull about 7.3 amperes and 16 gauge wire can easily handle this.A standard 6000 watt baseboard heater pulls about 27 amperes and needs 10 gauge wire.