Why would the hazard lights work instead of the turn signals on the rear of a 1996 Chevy Blazer?

Answer 1

Sounds like you have a bad ground. Try replacing your main ground wire from the battery to the engine, if that doesn't work check all other grounds running off your battery. You should also check the brake light switch which is located on the brake pedal arm, if it is not working you will not have brake lights, and finally remove all the rear bulbs and check that they are the right type for the application, meaning that brake/turn signal combinations require a double contact bulb, not a single contact bulb. I have a '96 Chevy Blazer Lt and I went through the opposite of your question, but it is all connected. If you have checked the bulbs and brake switch you will find is you are left with two answers. If you are handy then you can do it yourself and save a lot of money ($300-$500 more specifically). If you aren't so handy then you need to pay someone to do it for you. The problem lies within the actual push-in, push-out switch of the assembly. That switch is in an assembly that ties your cruise control, wipers, turn signal, high beam, low beam, mister, and air bag. The Haynes and Chilton Total Car Care books will get so far as to replace the entire module (You can buy it at AutoZone for $178 or Chevy for $347). I did it without taking the steering wheel off. If you can remove the assembly off of the top of the steering wheel column then you are 3/4th of the way there. If you can loosen some of the plastic clips (on the assembly) around that push button, it will come out the top of the assembly. Be very careful with the turn signal housing, not so much the arm as the front plate on it. If it opens there is a spring that may fall out. In any case; if you get the button to come out you will notice that is has 3 brass triangle pads on the side of it. These pads are on spring-type cushions. Each triangle pad has raised contacts (bumps) on it. One, two, or all of these contacts are corroded. In addition, the brass strips that the contacts (bump) touch may also be corroded. I was able to take most of the assembly apart and clean these contacts and re-lubricate them with a die-electric grase, like you use on spark plugs. Because the opening of this button faces up, all kinds of dust can get in there too. Corrosion and dust equal no contact. That's the heart of your problem. If you work through it you save money, but if it sounds to intense then pay a mechanic to do it.