Why would the heater on a 1997 Chevy Suburban work at all speeds except high and the back blower not come on at all?
The two blowers share two things in common that are worth checking, the fuse (#12 on the interior panel) and therefore powersource, and the Hi-blower relay (3rd from the bottom-right of the under-hood relay/fuse block). Before continuing, however, it would be helpful to know the exact combinations of working/not-working for your problem. For instance, Front blower working off: Back blower Low - works Med - works High - works Front blower on low: Back blower Low - works Med - works Hight - fails Also, with/without the A/C on MAX, and the A/C on/off at all. You get the idea. Now back to my original comments... If you can test the scenario(s) at night when you have darkness and can examine subtle lighting changes, like the dome lights that would be good. Assuming that you don't have significant lighting changes when moving the switch(es) to different settings, you probably don't have a "short" problem. Note: a short may not always lead to a fuse blowing, but may have led to a burned switch and/or wire, motor, etc. It really sounds like you have two different problems. The "Hi" setting on the working blower and a fail-to-run problem on the other. The first thing to do would be to double check the relay I mentioned above in the under-hood panel. Once that's done, try the following steps to isolate the issue. Do: Remove the power lead to the rear blower and try the front blower in all positions. Then: If it works fine you know it can on it's own. Do: Plug the rear blower back in, and retry the front blower. Then: If it doesn't work, you probably have a rear motor burning the relay. Check it again. Also: If it works, you've shown the rear motor doesn't have an effect in the off position. Try turning the rear motor to different speeds and see if the front motor fails (while at high) in any power-on settings for the rear motor. Also: If not, you've shown the two to likely (99%) unrelated. For the rear motor... Do: Disconnect the motor and use leads to run the motor straight from the battery. NOTE: You should connect the leads to the battery and the motor with different leads, so that your final connection is with alligator clips or such. The final connection that powers the motor has the potential to burn the connection point. You don't want it to be the terminals or vehicle connections. Also, make a solid connection with waivering, then a solid release if it turns or does not turn. It will only take a second to check it. FUSE THE LEAD YOU USE!!!! use a lead that has an inline fuse with amperage to match the factory fuse in the fuse-block!! Then: If the motor turns, you will have to chase a connectivity issue (known as an open) throughout the system. Also: This will be best accomplished with the power off and an ohmmeter between the fuse block and all the locations you can imagine. Start with the front-upper-console, then the rear-upper console, then perhaps the lead at the motor. While checking the connections, move the switches to various postions to ensure you have some/none success in an "willing" position. The one place you should have success with the continuity check is the front-upper-console, in one of the various power positions. GOOD LUCK!! I'll check back. User - Atis
What could be causing the heater blower motor to work only in the full blast switch setting - 1988 Suburban?
Why does the heater blower on your 1993 K2500 Suburban work on high speed only and not the lower speeds and where is the relay for this motor located?
These and similar vehicles use a "hi-blow" relay to put the blower motor into high speed. The low speeds are controlled by putting various taps from a limiting resistor into the motor cicuit. The hi-blow relay is not going to be at fault since the motor runs fast. It's possible you have an electronic temperature control that has a defect. Most likely, though, is the resistor is burned out or disconnected. The resistor is usually…
If heater fan is working but nothing coming out would the problem be blower resistor or switch for 1999 Oldsmobile intrigue?
Year make model aside, most have power going to motor and grounds are through the blower motor resistor, setting speeds by using different resistors on the board, or in the case of automatic climate control, a power resistor control board, usually located in the heater box near the blower motor, google or ebay for one for your vehicle, get a picture of it in your head and look around the blower motor. They have diodes…
Can a 1994 Chevrolet Caprice Classic heater blower motor resistor be tested to see if it needs replacing?
If you have no blower speeds at all, first check the fuse. If the fuse is okay I would suspect the blower speed switch and its electrical plug has melted. If the switch checks okay I would suspect the blower motor is bad. If you have high speed only, I would replace the blower motor speed resistor. If you have all lower blower speeds but no high speed, replace the high speed relay.
I think I need a new blower relay for my 1993 olds delta 88 royal the heater fan will cut out at times and then come back on once it's on I do have all speeds working do you think it's the relay?
If its not the fuse how do you figure out why the heater fan stopped working on your 95 GMC Sierra 2500?
Check for 12V at the blower motor connection with ignition on and while selecting all blower speeds with fan switch. If you have power with all speeds at that connection you probably have a bad blower motor. If you don't have power there with any speed selected you probably have a faulty fan switch. If you have power there with only some of the speed selections you probably have a bad speed resister. If you…
Either than switch, the resistor, or the relay is bad. On my 1999 Buick Century, the blower motor quit working on the three lower speeds, and then went out completely. When the resistor goes bad, the lower speeds quit working. My blower motor was squealing, also. After I replaced the blower motor and the resistor, I tested it and found the blower worked great on every speed but high. It turned out that there is…
Could be the fan switch but also could be the blower resistor located behind the glove box in the heater case The heater speeds are normally achieved by placing resisters in line with the 12V power supplied to the blower. When some speeds work and others don't it is often because the resister for that speed has failed. The switch is probably OK. The resisters are normally mounted on the blower motor. I don't know…
Why do only things that work on my climate control on a 1995 Sierra 1500 are the first 3 blower settings and temperature control and nothing else?
dont know if your air works but my low speeds only worked on my 1995 gmc sierra and i found out there was a relay on top of the heater box after i took out the glove box. this works the high speed blower mode on the control switch. the low speeds are controlled by the blower resistor. the relay cost me about 15.00 at autozone.
If you have no speeds at all, including high speed and you have power at the fuse and the fuse is good, I would suspect the heater blower speed switch and or the electrical plug to the switch is cooked. If you have high speed only and the rest are dead, I would suspect the blower motor speed resistor.