I posted this question and finally was able to get them to retract with pure determination and elbow grease. The caliper piston is tight and takes many clockwise turns. Lube and loosen the seal around it with a very small screwdriver, so it doesn't tear when you turn the piston. You need a special spanner wrench to turn them. I was able to make one, by putting (2) 1/8" pins into the end of a 1 1/4" x 1/4" piece of bar stock, that was 10" long. I started to use a pair of vise grips(and you could get away with them) but they bugger up the end of the piston. If you use grips, file the end of the piston flat afterwards. Good luck, Eric J
Some of thoes pstons have 2 b turned clockwise (AS) U are pushing them in & also they sell a tool that's let u do the same thing
You will need to push the caliper piston back as well as rotated when you are replacing your rear brake pads. The caliper will need to be turned clockwise.
You will need the tool to retract the calipers. The piston in the rear calipers have to be turned clockwise as you compress them back in.
Assuming this is the rear caliper you are having trouble with, the piston must be turned clockwise as you gently compress it. You basically have to screw it back in while applying pressure.
---- You have to turn it (caliper piston) as you are depressing the piston back into the caliper. You can't just "jam" it in. I used a caliper tool (for depressing the caliper) and turned the piston with large jaw pliers. This gives both inward pressure and the turning motion. I turned it clockwise and that seemed to work. There is a special tool you can buy to turn the piston as you push it back into the body of the caliper but if you work carefully and you are VERY aware of the rubber boot (don't rip it) then pliers are ok (don't tell the Ford dealer). Cover the pliers with something so you don't scratch/ruin the piston. The front brakes are just a standard push - don't need to turn them. Why do the back brakes work this way? Has to do with the parking brake. If you look you can see that it is attached to the caliper on the rear.
Remove wheel; remember to block up front wheels as you need to take hand brake off. Remove wheel, undo 2 x 19mm bolts from rear of calipers and remove caliper off the disc, remove old pads, compress piston. The rear brakes have a slotted piston that needs to be turned clockwise to retract nd push piston rearward back into caliper. There is a special tool available at local autoparts store or you can try needle nose pliers. Replace pads and put caliper back on disc asnd bolt up.
the rear brakes have a 4 slotted piston that needs to be turned clockwise to retact piston back into caliper there is a special tool available at local autoparts store or you can try needle nose pliers.
Most likely the piston will need to be turned not compressed
Depending on the make/model/year of vehicle, you may have to get a rear caliper tool. Some rear calipers need to be turned to retract them.
The rear piston has to be turned in, it won't just push in, they make a tool at the parts store that makes it easier, if you have tried turning it in and it won't go you will have to replace the caliper as it's bad.
Not alot of info. But I suspect you are wondering how to retract the caliper piston so that you can get the new pads in and the whole assy back on the rotor. Since they are "self adjusting" real breaks (that tighten slightly when you use the brake while in reverse) the caliper piston must be rotated counter clockwise while being compressed. You need to make or buy a special tool. I got mine at harbor Freight for $20.00. Hope this helps. New Answerer: I just finished doing this job for a 1990 Cutlass Supreme. I was able to compress the piston by putting gentle pressure on the piston with a 7 or 8 inch C clamp and then rotated the piston CLOCKWISE with Channel Lock pliers for the right rear brakes. (I assume it is counter-clockwise for the left rear.) I got a friend to slowly tighten the clamp while I turned the piston. It is important to use just the edge of the pliers so that the rubber bellows around the piston will not be damaged. I also had to grind the edges of the rotor a little to take off the edges for several inches on each side of the rotor so that the new pad material would not be damaged when the caliper and new pads were slipped over the rotor.
Possible reasons: 1)You'll have to check, but some calipers have to be turned in like the cap on a bottle of soda. Others have to be pushed in while being turned. 2)The caliper is not seeded correctly meaning that it is not going in straight. 3)The caliper is seized up, meaning that there is something between the piston and wall keeping it from moving. Rust maybe. If the boot around the caliper is torn then this is probably the case. 4)It's unlikely, but on the inside of the walls of the caliper there is a seal, if the seal is damaged then it might keep the caliper from being pushed or turned in.