You need to turn (screw, rotate) the piston clockwise in the caliper a large number of times to make it fully retract. You can insert some kind of tool into the indentations in the face of the piston, or grip the very top edge of the piston with pliers in order to turn it. It has to be fully retracted to allow enough space for "new" pads to be installed.
Caliper pistons should retract if calipers are in working order. Calipers need to be removed and rebuilt or replaced. A brake fluid flush is highly recommended.
After changing pads? - pump brake pedal to set pads against rotor To retract to change pads? If parking brake is not connected to this caliper - compress piston into caliper body with a "C" clamp - if parking brake is installed on this unit a special tool (not expensive) is required because piston is threaded Tool is available at Sears or auto parts ========================= If you're talking about the rear disk pads, they are adjusted using a small screw (hidden behind a nother screw) on the caliper which adjusts the parking brake. You need to turn this screw to back off the calipers in order to install the new pads. Since the calipers are threaded, no amount of pushing will retract them.
The rear brakes you need a 3/8 standard wrench to open two bolts retaining the caliper. The piston caliper requires a special tool to "wind " it or screw it back in order to install the new brake pads. DO NOT PRESS THE CALIPER PISTON BACK. You have to "screw" or rotate it. The rear brakes you need a 3/8 standard wrench to open two bolts retaining the caliper. The piston caliper requires a special tool to "wind " it or screw it back in order to install the new brake pads. DO NOT PRESS THE CALIPER PISTON BACK. You have to "screw" or rotate it.
did you try to loosen the bleeder screw before using the c clamps You have to turn the piston clockwise in order for it to go back into the caliper.
Jack up the car, remove the rear wheel, find the caliper and behind it there are two large 19mm bolts (on a 2002) and loosen them both, pull the caliper off and be careful not to hyper extend the brake line hose, pop out the old pads...they are two different pads in a set, identify inside and outside, insert the pads, use a 'c' clamp to spread open the pads and replace the caliper unit, bolt on your wheel and take it easy braking for a few miles in order to seat the pads well. CHECK YOUR MODEL YEAR! DON'T COMPRESS WIHT CLAMP JUST YET! In my experience with the 97 Altima, the rear brake piston CANNOT be compressed in with a C-Clamp! If the piston face looks like a 4 leaf clover, it must be TURNED back in, not compressed! Use a pair of needle nose pliers and insert into the grooves in the face of the piston. Turn clockwise to get the piston back into the caliper. Using a clamp could damage the caliper.
You need a special tool to compress the piston back into the caliper. IF you have this simply unbolt the caliper, slide it off the brake disc, the pads slide out and the replacements slide in the same as the old ones came out, they'll only go in one way. However in order to refit you need the tool to compress the piston back into its start position. The piston 'screws' back into the caliper under pressure, the tool is essentially a threaded bar with a peg on end that locates in the groove/holes in the piston and a T on the other which goes against the caliper, you then wind the bar round and the pressure and screwing action winds the piston back in. The N/S piston has a reverse thread so needs to be wound the opposite way. With all the bits ready to go it can be done in an hour even without having done it before.
Remove wheel, remove caliper from mount, not from the brake line or the cable, get proper tool for working on rear disk brakes then twist the piston and compress it back into the caliper, install in reverse order.
Remove the two bolts holding the caliper over the rotor, remove caliper. You may have to gently persuade it with a dead blow or hammer. Once removed the pads come off by pushing them out. Use a clamp to press the caliper piston back into the caliper or you won't be able to put the caliper back over the rotor with the new pads installed. Now simply work in reverse order installing the pads and caliper, bleed your brakes, and hit the road.
remove wheel , remove brake calaper, take off pads, push caliper piston back with a C clamp , reistall in reverse order.
remove master cylinder cap, raise vehicle and take off tire, remove caliper mounting bolts, detach the caliper and be very carefull of brake hose.hang up caliper with something to prevent breaking hose. use a screwdriver to pull up the retaining spring on the outside pad while sliding it out of the caliper. unclip the inner pad from the piston, before putting on new pads, compress piston back in bore with a big c-clamp! place old pad on piston to compress. installation is in reverse order! when done do not forget to put master cap back on.
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number 1 jack up rear of car and put safety stands under. their are 2 bolts that hold the caliper on. take 2 bolts out and you can lift the caliper off the rotor. discard old brake pads and you have to push the piston back in the caliper. you will need to open the bleeder screw on the caliper. in order to push the piston back you will need vise grip pliers. after you push the piston back close bleeder screw. install new brake pads and put caliper back on with the 2 screws or bolts. after you install the pads and caliper check the brake fluid resivor and fill to full line. pump brake pedal several times. if you have a hard and high pedal your done. if the pedal is low you have to bleed the rear calipers starting with the right rear first then the left rear. you can bleed them by opening the bleeder screw on the right rear and pump the brake pedal slowly 3 or 4 times. then tighten the bleeder screw. pump the pedal again 3 or 4 times and check the fluid. then do the same to the left rear caliper in the same order.
Start by putting the car on the jack stands and removing the wheels. Spread some paper on the floor under each brake caliper, then hit the calipers and rotors with a big dose of brake cleaner. Be careful to work where there is plenty of ventilation and try not to breath in the brake cleaner fumes! Remove the Pads The center section of the caliper holds the pads in place and is connected to the outer section of the caliper with just two bolts called guide pin bolts. Remove these bolts and lift the center of the caliper up and off the brake pads. (You may need to hit them with a little PB Blaster or WD-40 to help loosen them). Remove the Caliper Here's where you need to take note of how the old pads fit in place. The pad towards the inside of the car has a metal tab that sticks out about half an inch. The pad on the outside is smooth. After you remove the old pads, unbolt the caliper mounting bracket by removing the two 18mm bolts holding it in place. Hang the caliper from the strut springs with the bungee cord to keep the caliper from hanging by the brake line. Re-Seat the Piston As your old brake pads wore down, the brake caliper piston was pushed further out to make up the difference, so in order for the new pads to fit the piston has to be forced back into the caliper. Use the C-clamp and an old brake pad to push the piston back into place. A note about re-seating the piston. If you've been a good doobie and filled the brake fluid reservoir as your brakes wore down, you'll need to siphon some fluid back out or it will overflow as you push the piston back in place. The rest of us slackers can just skip this step. Apply Brake Lube Put brake lube on the insides of the caliper, where the back of the pads make contact with the inside of the caliper and the piston. Remove the Rotor With the caliper off the front axle the rotor can be removed. It should just pull right off. A stubborn rotor can be removed with a few raps with a rubber mallet. Re-Assemble Now you can place the new rotor on, mount the caliper and brake pads. When replacing the caliper, note that the end of the guide pin mount has two flat spots. This piece is easily turned, and one of the flat spots has to be aligned with the flat section of the inner caliper. If the caliper won't slide completely in place this is most likely the reason. Caliper and Rotor Installed With the caliper back on all that's left to do is re-mount the wheel take the car off the jacks.
You need to buy a c clamp one that can open atleast 6 inches take the old brake pad place it back in the way it was in there then there should be a screw on the caliper losen the screw just a little bit then put the c clamp over the brake caliper one end of the c clamp on the old brake pad the other end on the back of the caliper then tight c clamp till the caliper piston is flush with the caliper note when you thighten the c clamp brake fluid will come out of the screw that you losend so after you do all that spary some brake cleaner on your caliper rotor then put your new brake pads on add some brake fluid if needed the your ready to go
On some vehicles there is a special tool required. The piston is pressed and turned at the same time. Of course you must remove the master cylinder cap, in order to be able to push it back on any car. If it has a criss cross patteren on the face of the piston, then you need this tool. Some Suto Parts stores will lend you the tool, if you buy the parts from them.
Answerin order to depress caliper you have to turn the top of the piston clockwise while adding pressure with clamp.AnswerThis could be caused by the piston having worn a groove into the cylinder wall of - it's catching up on the edge. In that case, best to replace the caliper, or at the very least have yours rebuilt.NOTE: when compressing pistons back, be sure there is enough room in the brake fluid container for the extra fluid that going to be pushed back into it. You may need to take some out to avoid a nasty over-flow(!)
what is piston order of 3.8 amc engine
I had same problem, 1st see if you can pry open the piston just a little bit byshoving a flat screw driver between rotor & brake pad. And or in my case Ihad to grind off the edge of the rotor as tall as the pad in order to slide out thepads.Then replace the unit..
# Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle. Set the parking brake and block the rear wheels. # Siphon a sufficient quantity of brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to prevent the brake fluid from overflowing from the master cylinder when removing or installing the brake pads. This is necessary as the piston must be forced into the cylinder bore to provide sufficient clearance to install the pads. # Remove the wheel, then reinstall 2 lug nuts finger tight to hold the disc in place. NOTE: Disassemble brakes one wheel at a time. This will prevent parts confusion and also prevent the opposite caliper piston from popping out during pad installation. # Remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts and then remove the caliper from the mounting bracket. Position the caliper out of the way and support it with wire so it doesn't hang by the brake line. NOTE: It may be necessary to rock the caliper back and forth a bit in order to reposition the piston so it will clear the brake pads.
Firing Order 1-3-4-2
The firing order is 1-3-4-2
The Rear Caliper Bottom Bolt head size is 12 mm. The Top bolt is enclosed only making it a slide bolt therefore you cant and really have no need to remove it. So the only bolt you should remove is the bottom 12mm head bolt. Then there will be a 14mm bolt that will hold the Emergency Brake Cable Bracket to the Caliper. Loosen this bolt and remove the Emergency Brake Cable Bracket from the Caliper. Then pry the bottom of the caliper up off the disc. This will allow you to swing the caliper up then push the caliper back to slide the caliper off the enclosed bolt slide at the top of the caliper. This will allow access to the inside and outside pads to remove them and allow you to press and rotate the Piston (Push and Twist-in Pistons) back into the Caliper with the right Brake Caliper Compression tool. The rear two Caliper Bracket bolt head sizes are 18mm. You must remove the Caliper bracket in order to remove the rear brake disc. The Front Brake Caliper Bolt is a 3/8" Allen head bolt. There will be two bolts holding the front calipers to the Spindle. The Front calipers are standard push-in Pistons.
To compress gases in order to create a controlled expansion of gases thus allowing the piston to descend
Loosen lug nuts. Jack up vehicle, support on jack stand. Remove wheel. I like to spray down the entire brake assembly with brake cleaner first, have a catch bucket underneath. Remove caliper body. Remove rotor. Installation is the reverse of removal. You may have to remove the brake pads in order to depress the caliper piston to get the caliper back over the new rotor (depending on how worn your old rotor is)