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Why won't your 1993 Mercury Tracer shut off when you have turned the key to the off position and taken the key out of the ignition?
Check the control rod from the key down to the switch at the base of the steering column?
Check the wiring at the harness at the lower left of the steering column for frayed or burnt wires
Answer #2. Ain't no control rod unfortunately.
Switch is blown, as is the little flat cheap rod which connects the key housing to the key switch (switch is mounted to the back of the key/tumbler housing). Rod breaks because the switch breaks (locks up) first; your key twisting torque then shears off the flat rod; switch is then locked either on or off. Alas, cheap flat rod is part of the key/tumbler housing, and CAN'T BE REPLACED SEPARATELY.
Happened to a friend of mine, after sampling some medicinal herb in the middle of nowhere -- car would't start, and the key felt like it wasn't turning the switch anymore. It wasn't. Long walk home. Or so I heard.
Good News: switch is cheap. Held on to the back of the housing with one self tapping Phillips screw (unique. hint. hint) and one tab which usually breaks off unless you are careful. Not death, but be careful.
Bad news: Key housing needs to be replaced also. Parts houses have them, but now you have one key for the ignition, a different one (the original) for the doors.
Further bad news: replacing the key housing is a bear. But doable (I've done half a dozen of these. Love the cars I guess.) Steering column needs to be dropped (all black surround plastic removed - 4 Phillips screws. Center one is unique. again), then 4 more 12 or 13 mil bolts will drop the column down about a foot.
Remove the steering wheel (center horn assembly removed first), remove the turn signal switch assembly (3 tiny assed, unique screws -- don't lose them, parts store won't have them), then the FUN begins. Key assembly is held on with two metric bolts, that no longer have any head on them -- they intentionally shear off when installed so that gang bangers can't steal your ride and cruise the hood. If they do this in a tracer, they are truly dangerous. To get these bolts out, you need a pointed chisel and hammer. Actually they screw out easily. Then head to ACE and pick up matching METRIC bolts with round heads which use an internal hex head -- need a metric Allen wrench for this, better pick one up at ACE also. CAUTION. If you don't buy this specific bolt (decide to use a standard 12 or 13 mil hex head, you will say many bad words because the hex head won't clear the ignition switch clamp. Bolts probably 50 cents each. Walmart won't have them.
Then simply reverse the above and reinstall the column. Ouch. Takes lots of tools, time, and work. Not really, and not really much cash, because the swith is cheap. It's the Key/tumbler assembly which makes a man mean. Or. Get a new switch, let it hang, then turn it on or off with a screwdriver.
Don't be afraid. Keep this car on the road!!
FieroGtChuck
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