How do you remove ignition lock from 91 Jeep Cherokee?

Answer 1

Assuming that you do not ( as suggested by the first answer) want the information in order to steal a car (which would take a while with the following procedure) it is

possible to change the ignition key lock on a 92 Honda Accord Automatic, although even the Honda service manual indicates that you must change the entire ignition switch (the entire apparatus that goes around the steering column and is held in place by two sheer bolts that have to be drilled out and require that you remove the steering wheel, the shields behind it and the instrument panel). Since I have changed the lock myself, without doing any of that, I know that it can be done. Also, the entire switch costs a fortune, whereas the lock and keys can usually be had on eBay for around $30.00.

First, take both cables off the battery. Before you do, make sure that your radio isn't one of those anti-theft jobs that needs a code when you hook the battery back up. If you don't have the code, no more radio.

Next, remove the shields behind the steering wheel. There are seven screws in the bottom shield, four threaded and three pointed. Remember where they go. After you have removed them, ease the portion of the bottom shield out from around the key lock, then it will be loose. If you have a tilt-wheel model, you will have to push the lever down (while holding the steering wheel where you want it) and then the shield can be pivoted so that it will come off the lever. Then push the lever back up.

The top shield will pull out from the top position with only minimal easing upward and outward.

After the shields are removed, you will see that the lock is behind the wiper apparatus and that the set screw (Philips head) can not be accessed in the normal manner. Don't give up yet. First, remove the illumination bulb from the plastic shield around the lock itself. Turn the bulb holder about ¼ turn and it should then come out of the housing. Then, remove the plastic shields themselves. There are three of them and they will all come off after you figure out how various plastic parts clip minimally onto the lock. It just takes a bit of working back and forth. When you have the shields off, you are ready to remove the lock itself.

At this point, insert the key into the lock and turn the lock to I. Leave it there.

Two maneuvers that would be very easy if the steering wheel were removed are more difficult this way, but they can be done with slow care and effort. First, the set screw has to be loosened, NOT removed. Using a good pair of needle-nose pliers, you can carefully turn the screw out until the lock will clear it (you can see the inner point of the screw where it blocks the locks removal, so you should be able to see when it no longer will cause such a block). Next, you must push in the pin that is part of the lock itself and comes up in a hole in the casing just a short distance back from the set-screw (you may need a flashlight to see the hole). Now, since you don't have the steering wheel removed, you can't simply push a small Philip's head screwdriver into the hole to compress the pin. You will have to use something like an Allen wrench (with the 45% angle) of the proper size to fit into the hole and carefully fit the end into the hole while holding the longer end. Even then, you probably won't be able to get enough pressure on the Allen wrench to push in the pin unless you carefully insert a flat-bladed screwdriver behind the wrench and lever it into the hole. I know, sounds like you need three hands, but if you are careful, and give yourself plenty of time, it will work.

Once you have the pin compressed, with your fourth hand you can work the lock out of the casing. Okay, sometimes the pin will pop back up and you will have to compress it again, but if you work the lock out as much as possible (just a hair) before compressing the pin, it will tend to catch the pin under the casing so that you can continue with removal.

When you have the lock out, you will find that it still has one wire connected to it by what appears to be a piece of plastic with the screw through it. Remove the screw, then, CAREFULLY pry up the end that the screw goes through and remove the plastic part by moving it slightly in the direction of the screw hole and lifting it up (there is a tiny tab at the other end of the part that fits into the lock, so you will have to put that end in first when you connect the part to the new lock). Okay, get your new lock, making sure that it is the same as your old lock and attach the plastic part and screw in reverse of how you took them off.

Now, with the new lock with key inserted and turned to I, carefully slide it back in in the same position as the old one was when you removed it. It should, perhaps with only a slight amount of pressure, click into place (the pin comes up in the hole). When that is accomplished, you should try the key to see that it turns through it positions easily.

If it does, carefully (using the needle-nose pliers) tighten the set-screw that holds the lock in position. Then replace the three plastic lock shields and put the illumination bulb back in simply by reversing the turn by which you took it out.

At this point, you should hook your battery back up and see it everything works as it should before you go through the trouble of reinstalling the top and bottom shields. Start the car.

If it starts, give it a short test drive to make sure it runs and shifts properly then turn it off, replace the shields and congratulate yourself on having done that which they all said couldn't be done.

Good luck.

Answer 2

Actually this is not a hard thing todo but can be time consuming depending on the condition of you column. The ignition lock is just a lock and a way to actuate the ignition switch, it isn't the ignition switch its self, that is mounted on the lower part of the column under the dash. You will need the following: Steering wheel puller, Lockplate removal tool, (rent from you local autoparts store) 5/8 in socket, cross-tip screwdriver #2, T-20 torx driver, small pliers, new lock cylinder (make sure you get the right one, last three of the part number should be 300, number 301 does not fit.), Torque wrench, small picks. Remove the horn button. Remove the steering wheel nut. Using puller remove steering wheel. remove dust cover. Using the lockplate tool , drepress lock plate and using pliers, picks, ect remove the retianing ring that holds the lock plate in place. Remove lock plate and turn signal cancel cam/ horn switch, spring may be removed if you need to. Using #2 driver remove turn signal actuator (little arm top left) and slide it out. Using #2 driver remove three screws that hold the turn signal switch in, disconnect from wiring harness under dash so you have some slack to remove the switch. remove the small switch (key-in ignition warning buzzer switch) may need a small flat tip, be careful small parts and springs (they fly). Using the T-20 torx remove the lock cylinder screw. You should be able to pull the cylinder out, us a small screwdriver to apply pressure if it sticks. Your new cylinder should slide in with out forcing it. Reassembly is the reverse. Torque the steering wheel nut to 25ft-lbs The procedure is also in the Haynes manual. You will save more then $10 and should only take an hour. As for you door locks if you have lost all your keys, that is easier and most likely cheaper if you do have a locksmith do an impression and make a key. Replacing the door cylinders are easy and about $20 for the set. the lift-gate is another story and will cost about $90, you may find a new lock cheaper , I haven't yet. The other disadvantage is that you would have three keys for you cherokee. You must call a locksmith in order to change the cylinder in the switch. However you should (if you want) change the cylinder on all locks in vehicle. I tried to do it myself with the help of a Chilton's book but is not worth the time and effort.You will end saving about $10.00 and spending 10 hours doing the job.

Answer 3

To the best of my knowledge.... When I replaced the locks on my 1990 cherokee, I took the door panel off and inside the door there was a c-clip with a tab that hold the locks in the doors. I used a screw driver and slid them out from under the cylinder. Of course you have to disconnect the linkage for the lock from the cylinder itself and then they just pop right out of the door. Dont lose the lil rubber seals that go between the outside of the lock and the door and be careful not to damage them because if you do not reinstall them with the new lock, they will rattle and the lock will move around in the door when you turn the key.

The tailgate lock was a little different. But still pretty easy to do once I removed that back cover to get at the internals of the door.

Answer 4

This is a fairly easy process...

Disconnect the battery (or while the cylinder is out your radio and stuff will be on).

If you can manage to get the key to turn to the starting position (you do not need to start the car)... I had a problem where my key would not turn unless I rapped on it a few times with a screwdriver.

There is a little spring loaded button you can press just underneath the cylinder that you press and the cylinder will slide right out with the key.

how do you put it back together

Answer 5

look under the dash and connected to the ignition harness you should be a relay. Find the 2 wires going to the relay from the harness(crank,start circuit same color), should be on the 30 and 86 terminal. Disconnect them from the relay and re-connect them to each other. Test..........................good luck, Mike

Answer 6

Take off the plastic cover around the column, there are three screws on the bottom.

There is a small role pin facing you on the side of the lock housing you pull to remove it.

Than turn the lock with the key in it. and in the correct spot the lock will slide out.

Answer 7

not a diy job at all. Find an experienced tech to do it for you, extremely difficult and special tools are needed.