Alfred F. Smode has written: 'Motor habit interference' -- subject(s): Employees, Habit, Learning, Psychology of, Motor ability, Psychology of Learning, Training of
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I am having the same problem. I just saw something listed for a Chevy truck where water is coming in through the firewall. Apparently there is a bad gasket.Answer 2If the water is on the passenger side floor the rain deflector weather-stripping is the problem. The weather stripping on the metal near the bottom of the windshield is notorious for falling off and allowing water into the blower motor inlet which will cause all kinds of headaches. Check out the following website for detailed pics and instructions on how to fix this problem. The writeup is about the cabin airfilter but also mentions the rain defelctor stripping that becomes mislocated and causes the above problem and how to fix.http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/TM.asp?m=2398123&p=2&tmode=1&smode=1Hope this helps."G"Answer 3Two GP owners have told me to just use cocking across the bottom of the windshieldAnswer4Had the same problem and it ended up that the cowl at the bottom of the windshield was leaking. Just had a windshield glassman reseal the area and it stopped.Larry
Check out the following website for pics and a description on how to complete this task. http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/TM.asp?m=3076805&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1&cookieCheck=156943076 (courtesy of www.clubgp.com) There are vendors that will change the "O" rings and clean/inspect the injector flow -for example: http://www.witchhunter.com/index.php4 Hope this helps. "G"
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Did you check and see if the cowl (where the car gets the air in from the outside, near the windshield) is full of leaves, dirt, etc. The buildup can cause water to enter. At the bottom of the windshield under a plastic cover there is a rain defelctor shield. Check out the following website for pics and a detailed explanation of how to fix your problem. http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=2398123&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1&cookieCheck=795342611 hope this helps "G" ANOTHER POSSIBLE CAUSE: I had the same issue and I resealed the cover mentioned above but in my case it did'nt work. Last year I had my 2000 gtp repainted and when the body man removed my side mirrors to paint seperately he found that the piece behind the mirror on the passenger side had rusted completely away. He said when it rained water would get behind the mirror and run down between the door and door panel and settle in the footwell. Hopefully this won't be your problem because the fix can be pricey. Good luck 00gpgtp
There is a complete list of supporting mods that should be in place prior to installing that 3.4. Can you get away with less? Possibly. Have people gotten away with less? Yes. Do you want to take the chance? Enough said. Courtesy of clubgp.com Check out he following website for a discussion of what you can run and what you need to do. http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=2867792&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1 Many people have gone down this road before, learn from their mistakes. Hope this helps "G"
"you can put a 99-03 throttle body on a 98, but you need to remap the MAF table (either using an AFC or tuner program) because the MAF curves are different." Courtesy clubgp.com. Check out the following website for further insight to your question. http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=4071927&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1 Hope this helps. "G" Yes it will but right up, the motors are the exact same.
that would be your heater core, or one of the hoses going to itAnswer 2If it is water and not anti freeze then it is not the heater core or a related hose. If the drain for the A/C is clogged water will back up into the passenger side floorboards. Also if the rain deflector strip at the bottom of the windshield is misaligned, water will accumulate on the floorboard after a rain.If the water got into the electrics your blower motor could be fried.Check the following writeup on the cabin airfilter replacement for pics and details on how to check the defelctor stip location and clean your A/C drain.http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/TM.asp?m=2398123&p=1&mpage=1&tmode=1&smode=1&key=&language=Hope this helps."G"
You really need to plan out your modding strategy. If you just start throwing parts on your car chances are you're going to be in for some real headaches. Knock is very detrimental to these engines. You need a scanning tool to find where your engine is at the moment before modding. Then check afterwards, you may need additional modding in order to keep your motor from blowing up, even from just a small change in pulley size. There are many people that have gone down this road. Learn from their mistakes and do it the right way from the begining. Check the write up on pulley size at: http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=2867792&p=1&mpage=1&tmode=1&smode=1&key=&language= Hope this helps "G"
First of all, I just hope you upgraded the intake the exhaust and the transmission because if not than say ADIOS to your engine and trany especialy. But anyway you can find out by how much boost your putting out ether you purchase a little computer and software for it and hook it up to your lap top(that is if you know as what you are doing) or go the easy way and put the car on the dyno and that will tell you absolutely everything about your car and the specs. You do not need to upgrade the transmission if you only swapped to a 3.4, which would be the first recommended lower size supercharger pulley. But you do need to at the very least have some exhaust mods (especially a U-bend delete), a CAI, and it helps to run a colder t-stat, and a more dialed in PCM, such as a DHP. To determine your boost you can hook up a powertuner (generally around $400) or have it dyno'd. You will get approximately 10 HP per .1 drop in pulley diameter and yes if you dont have supporting mods you will damage your engine if you go too far. Check out the following webiste for a thorough discussion on pulley size and suporting mods. http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=2867792&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1 Hope this helps. "G"
You have to have special fixtures to hold the engine while you are removing the pan. It is not an easy project. If you want to attempt it go to a parts store and get a shop manual on your car. It has been a while since this answer had been posted but I came accross this post that talks about this issue and how to make a support from wood for a "do it yourself" kit. http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=2546391&p=4&tmode=1&smode=1 . "G" Did this not long ago with my 98 Grand Prix using a transverse engine support bar. It is still very difficult and requires disconnection of the forward (RH) engine mount and lifting of the engine slightly to get clearance. It is worth taking to a reputable mechanic to have done--not a good do-it-yourself job. Also, there is a GM S/B out on this now for installing the pan with Permatex "Right Stuff" type caulk sealant (not the silicone stuff). Simply installing a new integral windage tray/oil pan gasket probably won't fix your leak. GM just did the gasket twice for me while the car was under warranty and it never fixed it. By the time the S/B came out, my car was out of warranty and GM wouldn't help. If you go to a mechanic they should be able to get this stuff and use it--all NAPA stores carry it. This of course also applies to 2000 GP's. I just found this out when my mechanic called to tell me it was $428 to replace a $1 gasket. I had no idea it was sitting on the engine cradle.