your Jeep is computer controlled and depending on the internal engine temp your fan may run off and on while the key is off and removed. This is normal for most vehicles today. If you mean the HVAC blower and not the engine cooling fan then you probably have a bad (shorted) power control module for the blower motor.
Many newer model vehicles have fans that keep running. I would bet yours is supposed to run for a minute or two to assist in cooling.
It could be any of a number of reasons. Such as: You are out of freon. Your compressor doesn't work. Really the only thing your light being on is telling you is that the fuse isn't blown. And your heater has nothing but the blower motor and duct work in common with the air conditioner. I would suggest a good mechanic or a Haynes or Chiltons Manual if you are mechanically enclined. Good luck. Jeeps are notorious for the AC going out more than likely your heater core box is full of debris and the fore you have to go to the dealer ship and they cahrge you $850 to clean it then they tell you how you need a new condenser and that is another $850 this has happend 2X to me my suggestion is get rid of it additional info: there are a number of posts on Wiki concerning AC problems with Jeep GC's. My experience is that you probably are having a problem with a clogged drain tube leaving the evaporator box. This is assuming that your freon system is fully charged. I would have a reputable AC tech check the freon first and then turn my attention to the drain. The previous answer is correct about the debris in the evaporator box and it is a result of extremely poor engineering on the part of Jeep. Keep looking on line and you will find out more. Of course, you have to be sure that the compressor is working, the system is charged and things are getting cold. A simple check of the refrigerant lines going into the firewall with your hand will give you an indication of whether the system is cooling or not. If the lines are cold, your problem may be with the blend door or re-circ door. The blend door diverts some or all of the air flow through the heater core. When this door breaks, you lose control over the air flow and can see problems with both heat and AC. Usually the broken blend doors fall to the bottom of the heater box on the GC and block heat. However, it is not uncommon for the doors to fall crooked and kill the AC function also. The re-circ door is also susceptible to failure. This door chooses between external and internal air going into the system. When it fails, you are contstantly pulling hot, outside air into the system, greatly reducing AC efficiency. Both of these fail modes are common. Check the HeaterTreater listings on Ebay for more diagnostic information and an inexpensive fix for the problem
I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo that was doing the same thing. The problem was a faulty ac/heater switch. You put the switch on ac, compresser engages, lines get cold and frosty, but only hot air is coming out of the vents, because the switch has changed back to heater even though it shows ac. The cure is to have the center panel which contains the ac/heater switch, fan speed switch and temperature control replaced.
Steven Randall Jackson is also known as Randy. He was part of the Jackson 5 for many years, and even had his own solo career. Nowadays he stays out of the limelight.
unfortunatly the golfs do not come stock with a block heater. get one, and have a local machanic install it for you I have a 05' Golf GLS 5-door and the cord is right next to the battery box (mine was tucked inside) on the front driver's side of the engine bay.
Blown fuse, bad heater blower motor control switch, bad blower motor, or a bad blower motor resistor pack.
Usually it is the fan\motor combination that circulates heat or even cool air when needed.
Most likely cause is a faulty blower motor regulator.
Ok..I figured it out. Turns out the rear defroster is the problem. When I unplugged it from the back windshield, blower/heater works great!! So...to all those out there..if your blower motor blows fuses...check the blower motor first...then the HVAC and heater fuses, then rear defroster if you have a cavalier!
You will need to replace the blower motor control unit located inside the blower motor housing, this part is not the same as the part on standard explorers, it is not the same blower motor resistor.
replacing the blower motor resistor which cost about 20 bucks or so.....hope this helps
You still have a blower resister assembly, wiring, and a blower motor itself, in that system. Any one of those could have a problem. You need to use a test light at the blower motor connector and see if you are getting both power and ground. If you are missing a ground, most likely you have a bad blower resister assembly. If you are mssing power, check fuses and wiring. If you have both power and ground, and the motor isn't working, you need a blower motor. I have also found that sometimes tapping with a screwdriver handle on the motor will make it come on, and if that is the case, then again, you have a bad blower motor.
If it will only run on fast, or it won't go on in fast position. It most likely the blower motor resistor. Blower motor is OK because it is running even if it is one speed..replace the resistor. It only coast 20 - 30$
it's a problem with the blower motor resistor,
Generally automotive blower motors are designed to run on the lowest speed even though the heater is turned off. The purpose is to circulate fresh air into the cab.
Yes, a malfunctioning blower motor resistor can prevent your AC from working properly. The resistor controls the speed of the blower motor; if it fails, the blower may not operate at all or may only work at certain speeds. This means that even if the AC system is functioning, you may not get any airflow, resulting in a lack of cooling. If you're experiencing issues with your AC, checking the blower motor resistor is a good place to start.
faulty switch