I can tell you that having a test light instead of the blower motor can help out. Instead of trying to take the blower moter and re-hooking it back up have the test light over there and upon turning it back on, if the light shows and the fuze does not blow then you can have a short in the blower motor itself, if it does then try to route the wires. It would be easier to do that by the removal of the dash but that is work upon itself.

Could you be more specific? What isn't working?

Relentless

Use a short peice of wire with an appropriate size fuse and connect the motor directly to the battery. If the motor turns, your motor is fine. If the fuse blows, your motor is the problem. If the motor turns,disconnect the connector from the back of the selector switch. Put in a new fuse and try it again. If the fuse blows you know that the short is before the power gets to the selector switch. Use a multi-meter to test for power at the connection to the selector switch. If you have no power at the selector switch something is wrong before the power even gets to the selector switch. If the fuse didn't blow move one to the next test. Use a multi-meter and check each wire with one lead of the meter at either end of the wire. They should all read very low resistances (less then 5ohms). If one of the wires reads "Overload" you have a broken wire. Now you need to check the wire to see if it is shorting to ground. Put one lead at one end of the wire and the other lead to the chassis ground. If it reads "Overload" the wire is not shorted to ground. If it reads low resistance, cut the wire at both ends and replace the whole peice of wire.If all this fails you can always try the penny trick. Put a penny in place of the fuse and look for the smoke. (JUST KIDDING)Get a good wiring diagram, start at the motor and work your way up stream back to the battery. Test each connection until you find the problem.Good luck, electrical problems are a pain in the butt.

I have the exact car, 2001 Audi A4 Quattro 2.8, and removed the belly pan several years ago when it cracked (bottoming out on a steep driveway). I haven't found a compelling reason to put it back on, and I find it much easier to change the oil now - in fact you don't have to lift the car at all because on the A4 the oil filter and drain bolt are right out front and easy to access, if the belly pan is off.

If you read Audiworld forums etc. they say the belly pan is necessary to protect against splashes, rocks, etc. but I have not found that to be the case, and there is no apparent damage or wear. I suppose there might be accelerated wear and tear that is not visible to the eye. They also say it improves mileage, which may be the case. But changing oil without having to get ramps or lift the car is awesome.

The fusebox is located on the left side of the dash board. As you open he driver's door, you'll see the panel covering it. Feel around the edge of it and you'll see a small slot laarge enough to fit a flat screwdriver. Pry the panel off there.

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi was created in 1651.

I'm at 90k and going strong!

Answer 2...

Audi's are high performance cars that require regular maintenance. They will fall apart quickly if you let the maintenance go, but will last 30 years or 300,000 miles if you repair or replace faithfully.

when i looked in my manual it said 6.3 quarts...but i think that's without filter. when i was changing mine it was closer to 7 a little less than 7. like 6 and 3/4 quarts.. just add 6 quarts change the filter.....start it up....check the level.... and fill it till it is to the full line.... i work in a lube center i do this for a living...that's the best way to go about it.... ****im looking for the capacities for a 6 speed manual transmission for the 3.0 engine......anybody!!?!?!?!!??!******

If it's an automatic, try putting it in Neuteral and then starting it. If that works, you have a contact in your shifter (park) that's going/ gone bad. Hope this helps!

either your start enging is dead or it doesnt get any power, u can try checking the power cables that connect to the start engine (if I'm not mistaking it should be just before your transmission), if it gets power then the u need to replace the start engine

Teatro delle Quattro Fontane was created in 1632.

Behind the switch for the flashers. The turn signals and flasher relay are on the same switch where ever the hazard switch is. This is a super easy fix, and the very first fix I did to a car. The part cost $65 at the dealership but you can purchase it online aftermarket for $38. Took me literally 5mins to fix. Audi dealership wanted to charge $190.

There will be one before and one after the catalytic converter.

Trouble code P0492 means:Secondary air injection system (Bank 2)

There're two got same name, same spec, but different shape. One on intake hose/adapter to throttle body, it's called intake air temperature sensor. Another can see through from front bumper lower section, in front of air conditioner condenser, on the bracket of power steering cooler. It's called Ambient temperature sensor. If you don't see it, it's gone, the wire or connector is quite easy corroded.

The thermostat is located on the passenger side of the engine, behind the timing belt.

The frustrated tow truck driver is played by Dave Florek, who was also the crusty Coach Smiley on The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air

A lot of S*(&. The pistons hit the valves, and essentially the engine destroys itself. Its an interference engine. Replace the timing belt, rollers, H2O pump, thermostat, coolant, and tensioner. Thank yourself for the $1000 or so spent.

See this link http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/ECTsensor.html

The first and least expensive thing I would do is replace the turn signal flasher. If the flasher is weak, then it could act-up just as you have suggested. The turn signal flasher is a separate system then the four way or hazard flashers even though they use the same bulbs. Generally, the turn signal flasher (which simply plugs in) is located near the steering column but on your model I would suggest you purchase it from your dealer and ask them to print out the picture of the flasher which will show you it's location. I you. Mark

its like any other car but there is a belly shield underneath that can be taken out with a flat head screwdriver and you just remove the oil drain plug replace the oil filter and put the drain plug back in and fill with new oil its like any other car but there is a belly shield underneath that can be taken out with a flat head screwdriver and you just remove the oil drain plug replace the oil filter and put the drain plug back in and fill with new oil

There is not one in my A6 2001. Assuming the 1998 Audi A6 is similar to 2001 model. This is slightly tricky. There are two plugs at the bottom of the gearbox sump. One is for draining the other is for filling. Both are found at the very bottom and almost side by side. The filling plug is not the one closer to the edge. Obviously the filling one has an opening which is located at a higher position within the gearbox. Filling up past this point will cause the excessive oil to overflow. You will need to jack the car up on a hydraulic platform so that it is level. Use the right tool to loosen the filling plug (and even have a spare plug ready as the old one would have chipped or been worn), remove it slowly to see any oil overflowing. THE OIL CAN BE VERY HOT. Have an oil pan ready. Rarely will you find it overflowing except for a small amount which is splattered over. You will need a special tool or a plastic hand pump with a long tube to pump the new oil in. Fill up by pumping oil until it overflows back out. Replace the plug by finger and start the engine, continue filling until it overflows again. With the engine spinning, the oil level will come down a bit. When that is done, tighten the plug. Now the level is right. You can find posts elsewhere on this. BTW, you also need a special Audi gearbox oil from Audi.

My 1998 Audi A6 quattro changes from F to C or back by the following: Press the button on the dash that shows a 3/4 circle symbol in the air condition area buttons and hold the button down. At the same time press the temperature selector button "+" on the drivers side briefly.

Pentosin.

The fuel filter on an Audi A6 2.7T is changed by disconnecting the fuel lines from either side of the filter. It is then unmounted from the vehicle's frame and a new filter attached.

Have a pro go at it, PITA to replace.

Need full make, model and year of the vehicle to answer this question properly.

Trouble code P0347 means: Crankshaft position sensor "A" low input (Bank 2)