Care of Ferrets

You can either build a folding cage or one that stays set up all the time. I'd probably make them just about the same way, but I'll note differences as they come up. Of course, this is just what I did; as you read through it, you may come up with better ideas of your own. First, the list of materials. This is for a 2 X 3 X 2-foot cage with two levels but no ramp. * 2' 1.5" X 3' 1.5" piece of quarter-inch plywood * 10 feet of 1 X 3 * 6 1-foot square pieces of vinyl floor covering * 10 3/4-inch-long narrow wood screws * 8 1+1/4-inch-long narrow wood screws * 16 feet wire grid garden fencing, 2 feet wide, 1 X 2-inch holes (available from Agway) * 2 X 2-foot piece of carpet * 48 ft (folding cage) or 36 ft very narrow soft vinyl tubing * 10-20 small black triangular binder clips (from an office-supply store) * strong duct or gaffer's tape * about 7 feet of string * assorted tools, glue, heavy gloves, bandages (that wire is sharp!) * a free weekend, or a couple of evenings First make the base. Cut the 1 X 3 into pieces the right length to fasten edge-on to the top of the plywood, making a tray. The idea is that the inner dimensions of the tray will be 2 X 3 feet. (That is, make two pieces about 3' 1.5" in length and two about 2 feet long, so they fit inside the long ones.) The 3/4-inch screws come up through the plywood into the edges of the 1 X 3's, and the 1.25-inch screws go at the corners to hold one 1 X 3 to the next. (Be sure to drill pilot holes first, and use narrow screws, so the 1 X 3's don't split.) You can use some glue, too. The flooring squares should have very sticky backs. Trim them to size (they cut easier if you warm them with a hair dryer) and line the tray floor with them, maybe using some glue, too. If you're making a folding cage, cut three 3-foot lengths of fencing, one 2-foot piece, and two 2' 2" pieces. (That is, add one extra grid section on those 2-foot pieces.) The 2- and 3-foot pieces, which will be the extra level, top, back, and front, should have smooth wires on all four sides, and the 2' 2" pieces, which will be the sides, should be smooth on three sides and have wires poking out on the fourth. (Cut a 3-foot piece, ending just after a cross-wire. Trim the poking out wires, wearing safety glasses because they tend to fly all over. Cut another 3-foot piece, again ending after a cross-wire. Leave the poking-out wires and cut a 2' 2" piece (including the sticking-out wires), ending -- you guessed it -- after a cross-wire. Another 2' 2" piece, two more big ones, and one 2-foot one.) You'll have one foot left over to make a door. For a non-folding cage, cut three pieces, 2 feet, 3 feet, and 10' 2" long. The 3-foot one has smooth sides, the 2-foot one has wires sticking out on both ends, and the long one has one end with wires sticking out. You'll have a foot left over for a door. Bend the long piece into right angles between the cross-wires at the 2, 5, and 7-foot points, so it makes a 2 X 3-foot rectangle that looks surprisingly like a cage. :-) The wire-poking-out edge will meet the other short edge at a corner. Before you put the cage together, you'll want to do something about all those little sharp points of wire. (I still have a faint scar from a shallow, but long, gash I got on my leg while building our travel cage a year ago.) That's where the tubing and tape comes in, and it's a real pain -- if you come up with any better ideas, please let me know! I carefully slit the tubing lengthwise and slid it over the so-called "smooth" edges of all the wire pieces except the bottom edges that would be in the tray. (Leave space for the clips -- see below.) I then took gaffer's tape (more resistant to heat and humidity than duct tape, but expensive) and used it to hold the tubing on, placing it along the tubing and then pulling it around to press its sticky sides together in the spaces between the wires, making an inch-wide black edge all around the cage. (This part might be clearer from the picture of the travel cage.) All the permanently-attached pieces of fencing go together the same way. For the folding cage, that's the two sides and the top all hinged onto the back; for the non-folding cage, it's the top and extra level attached to the main cage piece, and the main piece closed up at the corner. I'll use as an example the top hinging onto the back or main piece. The long side of the top doesn't have any wires sticking out, since it used to be the long edge of the roll of fencing. Cut off the very edge wire, leaving inch-long cross-wires. Remove most of the cross-wires as well, leaving one every three to five inches or so, including one at each end. Use more tubing and tape to cover the sharp points in between the sticking-out wires, if you want. Bend the tips of these wires into little loops around the top edge wire of the cage's back, leaving them loose enough to serve as a hinge. The sides of the folding cage are hinged in the same way. Be sure to point the hinge loops for the sides and top so that the sides fold in and the top goes back, or vice versa, so they don't get in each others' way when you collapse the cage. (For instance, make the edges' loops go inward and the ones on the top come up from inside.) The extra level of the non-folding cage, and the corner of the main piece, can be attached the same way, though of course they don't need to act as hinges. You could also trim off the hinge wires and "sew" the pieces together with electrical wire instead. The piece of carpet makes a floor for the second level; you can hold it on with string, electrical wire or twist ties poked through holes in the carpeting. Now make a door. Cut a hole in the side of the cage at least four inches up (to leave space for the 1 X 3's) and make a door: a piece of fencing which is two grid sections larger than the hole in each dimension (i.e., one section of overlap on all four sides). Leave hinge wires on the bottom edge of the door, protect all the exposed edges with tubing, and hinge it on. Attach it to the wire just below the bottom of the door hole, rather than the bottom one itself. It'll slide from side to side, but the clip used to close it will fix that. When it's open, it makes a ramp for getting into the cage. That's pretty much it. Unfold the cage, if necessary, and set the wire part into the tray. It should be too heavy for your ferrets to lift, but you can hold it on more firmly simply by tying string to the wire near the bottom, running it under the base, and tying it to the wire on the other side; or you can put screws in the sides of the base and tie the string to them. All the hinged pieces, including the top, door and (for the folding cage) sides, are closed by clipping binder clips every few inches around matching wires and turning them sideways so the wires don't just pop out when pushed. You'll have to leave spaces in the tubing-and-tape so the clips fit around. For the door, use a clip on a vertical wire rather than a horizontal one, to keep the door from sliding sideways. An extra level could be put into a folding cage by fastening it in with clips, too. I hope all that is clear enough, and that you'll forgive me for being so specific if it it was obvious. The total cost was US$70-80 when I did this, but I had enough material (a roll of fencing, two 8-foot 1 X 3's...) to make a travel cage for use in the car as well as a full-size one. If you have any questions, please ask!

Copyright

Weasels are in the family Mustelidaeof the order Carnivora. The weasel family includes ferrets, stoats, European polecats, minks, ermine, black-footed ferrets, long tailed weasels, least weasels. Other relatives of the weasels are martens, otters, badgers, and wolverines. The terms stoat and ermine are terms for the long tailed and short tailed weasels in their winter coats.

Genus: Mustela - Ermines, ferrets, minks, stoats, European polecat ferrets

Ferrets have an odor that comes from their sebaceous glands in the skin that secretes an oily/waxy matter, which is a musk odor. Ferret that have not been altered will have a more pronounced odor during mating season (especially males - hobs), altered ferrets have less of a smell. The odor will accumulate on their bedding and must be kept clean and washed. The litter box must be cleaned daily and avoid feeding any ferret food that has fish ingredients, which makes their feces smell more.

• Ferrets that have been altered do have a musky smell from the oil their skin secretes. Some people like the smell and some people don't. Bathing ferrets frequently actually makes them smell more because their oil glands start to overproduce from their dry skin

• Ferrets do smell especially hobs but the smell changes and gets a lot better when they have been neutered . once they are neutered the smell is so much easier to tolerate.

Ferrets have been used to run wiring in the airline industry

A ferret named Misty was used to help pull conduit at Peterson Air Force Base. Additional wires had to be run through 40-foot-long narrow pipes, called conduits, under the floor to connect computers. A piece of yarn was tied around the ferret's midsection. The animal crawled through the conduit, towing the yarn behind her. Then the loose end was tied around the wires and they were pulled through the conduit. Misty made several trips, and her work was done in an hour.

• A weasel-like, mammal (Mustela putorius furo) related to the European polecat ferret often trained to hunt rats or rabbits. They make great pets, and are very funny.

• Ferrets come from the Mustelidae family including weasels polecats otters badgers NOTE: Skunks are no longer in the Mustelidae family. Skunks (Mephitinae), which were moved into a new family, Mephitidae, following DNA analysis. Ferrets are more directly related to the European polecat. Mustela (Latin for weasel) putorius (Latin meaning stink) furo (Latin furonem which means thief) translates into weasel-like stinky thief. The name ferret is derived from the Latin furittus, meaning "little thief"

• THE FERRET IS A DOMESTICATED VERSION OF THE EUROPEAN POLECAT. MUCH IN THE SAME WAY AS DOGS ARE A DOMESTICATED VERSION OF THE WOLF. THE FERRET IS NOT A WILD ANIMAL.

• Ferrets are good pet for people who are at home a lot, can give them a lot of attention, do not have small children at home, and has the money for proper care.

• They can make great pets for the right owner. They are highly intelligent, affectionate animals and bond to their owners, and there are few pets as playful as ferrets.

• Ferrets have lots of good points, but there are some negatives as well. They require a lot of time and attention. Ferrets are not caged animals "you cage them for their protection", they need to be out at least 4 hours a daily. Ferrets have slight musky scent, which bothers some people, and many of them aren't quite as good about litter pans. Children require supervision with ferrets.

• Ferret-proofing must be emphasized. Ferrets love to get into EVERYTHING, you need to make sure they can't hurt themselves or your possessions. They need consistent care and maintenance. If you're not willing to take the necessary time, a ferret may not be for you.

• YES ferrets are the best animals to have. Ferrets make you laugh. Do not get a ferret if you don't have the time, ferrets have to be out of their cage for at least 1 and a half hours a day. They need lots of love. Ferrets are good with children but you should never get a ferret just for a child. They are a very big commitment. Ferrets don't smell as bad as people say they do. Keep the cage clean, clean the poop out there cage at least 2 times a day. Ferrets are great pets but lots of people think differently. Ferrets do bite, you need to scruff them and say NO. BUT REMEMBER NEVER HIT YOUR FERRET

• Ferrets are wonderful and great and they can bring joy to the lives of all... I disagree and have to say they DO NOT make good pets. I will however wholeheartedly commit to the statement that they make wonderful FUR KIDS!

• The awesome responsibility of parenting a ferret should never be taken lightly. They require massive amounts of work, dedication, and commitment. I have been rescuing ferrets for some time and restricted placement to families where the ferrets are the primary concern for all parties involved.

• Far too often people get kits (aka baby ferrets) thinking that it will be "fun". Sure ferrets are fun, but in order to properly care for a ferret through the entire 5-7 year duration of its life, requires tremendous amounts of very hard work. Most ferrets need daily medical care in their tiny little 'golden years'. To take on a commitment of ferret parenthood without the dedication to do it proper is in no way "fun" for anyone... Specially not the ailing ferrets.

• Ferrets require much more care than a cat or dog.

• YES, YES, YES--I've raised over 20 and I just love them, but listen what the persons ahead of say. And read, read, and read before you ever make the commitment. I once had a couple bring me their ferret, brought everything including a book and do you know that they never even creased the cover. What a shame, they would have loved him if they kept him. He was a joy to have. Great site also, use to be a magazine that went on line: http://www.ferretsmagazine.com/ferrets/home.aspx

• Ferrets often require much attention and work. Imagine a tiny fuzzy ferret that can fit into exactly everywhere they should be. While they have easy going personalities for the most part they are also insistent. When they decide against something (like a certain litter box) there is no way you are EVER going to convince them otherwise.

• They have a short life span and yes that is a con, you will find that you become attached, so addicted to them that 7 short years just isn't right, it isn't fair, and can be devastating to lose them.

• They a musk smell

• They have sharp teeth like kittens. They know how to use them. On one another, on your socks (with or without your toes stuffed in em), your finger (if you play to roughly), your purse, your shoes, couch pillows, some electrical cords, most things made of plastic, etc. They put everything in their mouths. (ferrets have poor vision, but excellent smell, and use their teeth to investigate their surroundings) They all think there is buried treasure in every houseplant, everywhere, in the entire world. Yep, every potted plant must have a trinket inside with their name on it! And they WILL look for it every chance they get! (due their burrowing instinct, ferrets like to dig)

• Their litter needs to be cleaned EVERY DAY.

• They become so emotionally tied to their primary care taker.

• They are not easy to care for once they get older.

• I have personally found that it is easier to get a cat to swallow a whole pill than it is to give a ferret medication it doesn't like.

• They will get under foot. They will steal your things and hide them. Smart ferret parents have a spare set of keys located high up in a safe place. They will climb up the Christmas tree, up your pants, down your shirt, through your hair, and all over the shelves. They will be naughty just because they feel you are not paying enough attention to them.

• True ferret fanatics read through that list answering "yeah but its worth it" after every point. And I'm right there - totally worth it!!! But I rescue ferrets all day long from people unlike myself... People who don't think its worth it. There are more people to rescue ferrets away from than there are to place ferrets with.

• They brighten my every day, make me laugh, and complete my life.

• They are not for everyone, they are not even for most people, but they are perfect for a couple of people and we think they are totally, absolutely, worth every bit.

• Ferrets are super playful throughout their life! They can also be very affectionate. They must be let out of their cage but are very fearless and can get into trouble when out. You need to watch them so they don't crawl anywhere dangerous and get crushed!

• I like to tell people that ferrets are like kittens that never grow up. You love them, they love you. They are a bag of laughs every time you see them. They will give you so much love. They are interactive! There are 1025 ferrets on petfinder.com. Too many people do not prepare themselves for owning a ferret.

• You need to have an emergency fund put aside if you want to own one. Just a little put away each month and you will be prepared for anything that may come up. They are not cheap animals.

• You need to read, read, anything and everything you can about ferrets. And read "Ferrets for Dummies" It's a great book.

• You really need to be committed to owning one.

• Ferrets are good pets if they are properly cared for with human interaction, training and socialization. They can become aggressive if not handled enough and prolonged caging.

• As long as you tame them they are fine i have two and except for the odd love bite they won't try to bite you. Unless you threaten them.

• Yes, I love ferrets, they are so playful and fun, sometimes silly. If your feeling down, go play with a ferret and they will instantly make you feel better.

• Let's just say that when I was doing work experience at a pet shop, I had to feed three baby ferrets at once. ADORABLY cute when sleeping, but try feeding THREE at ONCE and it may take you a good painful fifteen minutes to detach them from your fingers.

• FERRETS ROCK! Seriously, I want a ferret!

• Any ferret that is abused or not properly taken care of, just like animal, will be mean

• Ferrets like a lot of human interaction - to be with it's owner with plenty of time out of it's cage to play and explore the environment to satisfy their natural instincts. To be with other ferrets for company and companionship. To be cared for properly and not abused.

• Ferrets can be messy because of their inquisitive nature, and natural instinct to dig. Some ferrets like to dig in their food, and play in the drinking water.

• Do ferrets kill? The have been used for centuries in rodent extermination of rats, mice and rabbits. A ferret has natural instincts that may kill any rodent including guinea pigs, hamsters, rabbits, mice, etc. They may kill small snakes, bird, reptiles.

• Ferrets that are treated properly and handled frequently early in their life will bond strongly to their owner and like people. An abused ferret or one that has not been handled by humans will most likely be a "fear biter", and be afraid of people.

• I love ferrets. They are fun to play with and will make you laugh. That's my opinion. And then you have the other people that claim ferrets are dumb and stinky.These are the people that abuse animals.

• Ferrets are very smart. Ferret can be taught many tricks. Ferrets can learn to understand words and commands. The key to teaching ferrets is understanding their behavior, having patience and being persistent, along with food rewards. They can figure out how to unzip zippers, open cabinets, learn tricks, open doors. Some people claim that they are dumb, it's just that they act silly sometimes when playing. You just have to know ferrets and their natural instincts to figure out what they are doing sometimes.

• Ferrets get attached to their owners. In fact, some ferrets that are given up to shelters are so attached to their owners, they will become so depressed and will stop eating and die. Ferrets need to have a "Forever Home" a home they will always live at and never given up

• Are ferrets dirty? Hello, I have 2 Ferrets and they aren't dirty. They have very fast metabolisms and eat a couple of tablespoons of food approx every 2 hours. So they potty a lot. They pee and poop at the same time. Scoop the poop out of there cage several times a day, No they aren't dirty. Ferrets are very smart animals. Mine only potty in the corner of the cage I have a friend with Ferrets and hers goes all over the place so she is constantly having to change all the bedding, and that gets expensive. Ferrets can be trained and mine can do tricks. well I know I gave more information than you probably wanted or needed, I just love Ferrets and like to talk about them.

• Ferret are overly-curious by nature. They will crawl into any crack, hole, door, bed/couch, etc. etc. if it's there. Ferret's don't really have a concern for whether or not something around the corner intends to eat them, they basically charge around the corner to go sniff it's nose.

• Ferrets are awesome pets. I have 3!! But this is my opinion

• Absolutely! Just please be sure to read a lot about ferrets, or any other pet you decide to get, before you get one. They have a lot of energy, and are very curious. They require about 4 hours out of the cage per day, if you decide to keep them in one. Also, a ferret's favorite toy is generally their human companion, so expect to spend lots of time on the floor playing with them! I think it would be a great family pet.

• A ferret would not be a good pet for families with small children under 8 years old, or for families that travel a lot

• Yes, if you know how to properly take care of ferrets, and have the time for them. They love to play and are fun to watch.

• Ferrets are much like any other animal - if kept well, handled regularly and treated kindly, they can be extremely nice and affectionate. They also have a great sense of fun and will play various games such as hide and seek with their human owners. However, ferrets are by nature quite a fierce animal and are equipped with very, very sharp teeth - so a mistreated/neglected ferret is capable of giving a nasty bite.

• Ferrets are the greatest pets in the world, but they are outlawed as pets in the states of California and Hawaii. - Ferrets are good pets, I had one they are funny and like to play a lot

A large, well designed cage for ferrets is a necessity.Some features to look for are solid floors and shelves / balconies (wire mesh is hard on the feet), and preferably solid ladders, too. Multi-level cages are good, but depending on the arrangement of the levels, falls may be possible. Use extra shelves or hammocks if necessary to make the cage safer.

A ferrets cage size at minimum should be at least 3 foot width X 2 foot depth X 2 foot height. Buy the largest that you can afford, ferrets are not caged animals, you only cage them for their protection and need time out of it's cage at least 4 hours daily. If you cannot provide that, don't get a ferret.

Ferrets natural instincts that they like to be in an enclosed area while sleeping and they need undisturbed sleep, about 16 - 19 hours a day, in a dark quiet area without artificial lighting.