Chevy 305

NO. unless it's a 4.3 liter engine.

Depends on how the motor is set up.

Two possibles:

It needs to be shimmed. Chances are if it is a replacement starter it needs to be shimmed. you can buy shims at almost any parts store, they go between the starter and its mounting point on the block. usually one will be sufficient.

also possible you have burrs on the flywheel or starter gear that are hanging it up, should be able to tell that when you pull it to add the shim.

I recently had a starter grinding problem with my boat which has a Chevy 305 engine. You could lose a lot of time trying to find the correct shim thickness, not to mention you have the possibility of breaking a bolt off in the engine. I fixed my problem by having the starter bolts just loose enough to move the starter with my hands while I had someone bump the ignition switch. I had to move the nose of the starter down and it corrected the grinding.

BORE is 3.740 and the stroke is 3.480

95 degrees

The Chevy starter does not have a ground wire, the starter grounds through the starter casing.

No you can get screw in studs mainly for high performance engines.

The cost to rebuild a Chevy 305 engine typically runs between $400 and $800 depending on the level of rebuild. This will greatly extend the life of the engine and improve performance.

Yes, just different setup with dipstick, vacuum hose, alternator, etc etc Lots of them used in the 1980-85 cars and trucks

Entire cooling system should be flushed to remove dirt, scale, rust and sediment buildup which will corrode and clog/ruin your engine/cooling system

if its an older worn out bottom end (bearings and oil pump) its probably time to do an overhaul, start it and see if the gauge reads oil pressure, a Chevy smallblock can run with just 4 lbs of oil pressure

yes.

Yes, they should fit ok. 305 heads should bump up the compression a little.

try tuning or cleaning the carb

Sounds like a vent problem. Check the breather on top of the case to see if it's blocked.

yes just get head gaskets for the 350 not the 327

Honestly, junking the 305 and installing a 350. The 305 is basically an underbored 350. Because of it's small bore, large valve heads can NOT be used because larger diameter valves will actually hit the engine block. The 305 is a good fuel economy V-8, but it simply is NOT worth messing with if you want to go fast. 305's also have weak blocks, connecting rods and crankshafts as well. Ask any engine builder and they'll tell you the same thing. The 305 is good for what it was designed for, but for performance, it's basically junk.

150 psi should not vary by more than 10 psi between cylinders

igot some 305 neads trying to find out if thay are big viles the numbers are 14014416

The harminoc balancer. The 305 balancer is thin and the 350 is thicker and heaver.

The ones it came with from the manufacturer. If only it were that simple, I would be out of a job. Guys like that make me money so I guess I won't complain. Rule #1 of carb. tuning eliminate all variable that are not the carburetor. Your main target is the distributor, is it a stock GM HEI, if so you will need to pay attention to the mech. and vac. advances. The mech. is usually stuck, rusty or worn out. In any case it will need cleaned and greased, also the springs are probably too stiff for performance use, install lighter ones. You will need to limit the vac. to between 8* and 12* degrees, I like the vac. can from 454 motor homes it's a 10* can and works well on street cars. If set up properly you have a advance curve of 12* to 18* initial timing, with the vac. advance disconected and the motor reved up to 3,000 RPM or whenever it stops advancing, you should see between 32* and 36*. Now plug your vac. advance in and repeat, now you should see between 40* and 48*. Make sure to plug your vac. advance into the small passenger side vac. port at the front of the carb. as it is ported vac. you don't have enough valve overlap to need the manifold source on the drivers side. After you get your timing somehwere in the ballpark hook up a vac. gauge to the driver side vac. port and take a reading. If the motor is warmed up and off the choke you should see about 15" of vac. with that cam. The more inital timing you have the more vac. you will see but don't just crank a bunch of initial into it to get a high vac. reading you will be going the wrong way. Set your curb idle speed to between 750 and 850 RPM, make sure it's not dripping fuel out of the booster venturiis, recheck your initial timing and make sure you have no vac. signal on the front passenger side vac. port. Your forgot to mention if you have a 1405 or 1406, the 1405 manual choke carb is jetted .007 richer on the primary side, way too much jet area for a mild 305. If you have a 1406 just swap the main jets front to rear and install a different set of power piston springs, factory jetting is .098 front and .095 rear. Leave the stock metering rods alone for now, they should be okay, 75/47 for the 1406. You can use the plain silver or pink ones, the silvers will give you more power the pinks a little better economy. They are usually a little rich on the primaries even with the leaner factory jetting and a little lean on the secondaries especially with headers, cam and manifold. Just make sure to change out the step up springs, they sell for like $8 at the auto parts store. Also make sure to adjust your trans. kickdown properly, and check for wide open throttle, make sure your secondaries are open at WOT, with the engine off of course. Good luck let me know if you get it figured out.

Andy Stafford

Performance Tuning

509-521-2910

Yes it did.

Advertised horsepower is--- 155 HP @ 4400 RPMs

Toqure is--252 FT.Lbs @ 2100 RPMs.

Yes it does work. However you will also need to use the 22 lb injectors for the 350. To get the full benefits from the upgrade you should get a 350 chip burned. The computers are the same but the chips are different. This is all considering if the swap is for a lb9 (305) to a l98 (350).

The main bearings are what supports the crankshaft. The rod bearings go on the rod that the pistions are hooked to. Rod bearings are smaller then the main bearings on all engines.