Chevy 305

With the valve fully closed and the lifter fully at the down position, tighten the adjusting nut until there is no up and down travel in the push rod. Then tighten the adjusting nut 1/4 turn. This is only if you have hydraulic lifters.

Tighten the rocker studs to 50 ft/lb of torque. These are the bolts holding the rocker assembly in place.

Remove the distributor cap, remove the rotor, remove the two machine screws that hold down the module, wiggle module out of connectors. To install, clean area where module attaches, apply the silicone grease that comes with new module to the area under the module, wiggle module back into connections and thread in the two screws until snug. Reinstall rotor and distributor cap. Note, the distributor cap and rotor only fit one way.

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This is not a hard task if you are nimble enough to reach the back of the motor. First locate the distributor cap its close to the fire wall sticking up on the back of the motor. Remove the cap 2 screws 1 on each side (I do not take the wires off the cap it will lay off to the side, if you do not remember how they came off this is your firing order if its wrong the engine will not run or at best run poorly). Now you will see the rotor on top of the shaft remove it buy pulling straight up (it only goes on one way reinstalling will be easy) You may or may not have a plastic dust cover under that if so remove it. Now you have access to the ignition module small circuit board on the base of the distributor housing it will have a couple of wire leads Take care not to snap these off. Now remove 2 small mounting screws and your in buisness You should have dielectric grease provided with the new module spread it on the new unit where it makes contact with the distributor base and reinstall ever thing in the reverse order. AS ALL WAYS read any direction that come with your new part. Hope this helped and good luck Don

Replace the gasket, make sure the cover isn't dented from people just trying to tighten it down to stop the leak.

That will of course all depend on how you set it up. In my experiences the possibilitys are endless.You can put some serious cash in to one and run just as much as you want.

intake manifold is DIFFERENT for models 1985 and 1988

No. There were major engine changes between those years.

everything

Loosen the bolt holding the distributor in place, and turn the distributor counter clockwise. If it bucks the starter, it is too far advanced.

In 89, Chevy introduced the 1st generation vortec head. It has a different angle, thus using a different intake manifold, and self adjusting rocker arm.

adding headers will allow engine to breath better and boost up horsepower but not by much, headers also make you vehicle louder with pipes.

No thay will not fit. All different then the 84 engine.

Yes it will, if the 350 intake is from a pre-1987 engine.

Yes it does.

If it has a distributor, check the rotor button for a burn mark underneath. The high energy coil will sometimes burn a hole through it causing the fire to ground. Replace rotor button.

take out the # 1 spark plug turn the motor to top dead center remove the dist. cap and where ever the rotor is pointing is # 1

NO. unless it's a 4.3 liter engine.

Depends on how the motor is set up.

The Chevy starter does not have a ground wire, the starter grounds through the starter casing.

95 degrees

BORE is 3.740 and the stroke is 3.480

Two possibles:

It needs to be shimmed. Chances are if it is a replacement starter it needs to be shimmed. you can buy shims at almost any parts store, they go between the starter and its mounting point on the block. usually one will be sufficient.

also possible you have burrs on the flywheel or starter gear that are hanging it up, should be able to tell that when you pull it to add the shim.

I recently had a starter grinding problem with my boat which has a Chevy 305 engine. You could lose a lot of time trying to find the correct shim thickness, not to mention you have the possibility of breaking a bolt off in the engine. I fixed my problem by having the starter bolts just loose enough to move the starter with my hands while I had someone bump the ignition switch. I had to move the nose of the starter down and it corrected the grinding.

No you can get screw in studs mainly for high performance engines.

The cost to rebuild a Chevy 305 engine typically runs between $400 and $800 depending on the level of rebuild. This will greatly extend the life of the engine and improve performance.

Yes, just different setup with dipstick, vacuum hose, alternator, etc etc Lots of them used in the 1980-85 cars and trucks

yes.