Chevy Cavalier Z24

About 350Lbs

5x100

If the head is completely rounded beyond hope, you will have your best chance of success by using a bolt extractor. A common brand name is "Easy Out".

There is a pretty good how-to at the link below. One thing I recommend is when you drill the hole, use a moderately dull bit to enlarge the pilot hole. That will cause the bolt to heat up and take in the penetrating oil that you have squirted on the threads.

Yes they are located front of block Remove air cleaner and fan and they become

easy to reach

1. remove door panel

2. tape window in place so it does not fall on you.

3. disconnect the window motors electrical harness.

4. drill out the rivits holding the motor in place.

5. remove bolts holding the window.

6. take window completely out of vehicle.

7. then you should beable to pull out entire assembly.

8. drill out rivits connecting motor to regulater.

9.bolt new motor to regulator.

10. place entire assembly back in use bolts and bolt motor back in.

11. rebolt window in place.

12. plug in wires to motor.

13. test before placing door panel back on.

14. replace door panel.

on the front of the engiine about the middle of the block. it should have a pully on it and a fan if it doesn't have electric fans

Have someone check your fuel pump pressure,if you lose fuel pressure while driving,and then it comes back that would explain why it seems to start by itself.

yes?

Your question needs a little more clarification. As far as bolting it in....nothing. They are pretty much the same engine. Are you replacing a 2.8 with a 3.1 that has the same fuel delivery system? Are you using one with the same computer control generation?

A Z-24 is a Cavalier. So yes...depending on what parts, it's the same car. The body parts, interior, etc is the same. Depending on what years of Z-24 you are talking about, pre-95 Z-24s came with a 3.1 V-6 instead of the 4 popper, various body spoilers, and a little stiffer suspension.

It is Fuse #14 in the fuse box located under the drivers side dash

Depending on the year, the 99 runs 155lb without performance parts.

no its a throttle body injected engine

smokingallowed say's...Fenner82 is on the right track but not completely correct. His "TBI" engine has 1 fuel injector "squirting fuel strait down into the throttle body", and your Z24 has a multi-port injection system(1 fuel injector for each cylinder) which "squirts" fuel into the intake at the engine head.

it would be a really hard swap to go from the 2.8 to a 3.8. one the 2.8 is a 60 degree motor and the 3.8 is a 90. i am going to swap the 2.8 for a 3.4 because as far as power the 3.8 isn't much more powerful than the 3.4 and the 3.4 is a very straight forward swap almost everything is interchangeable.

1998-2000 2.4L is 0.050

if u'v opened the idle compensator on top of ur carb check for leak there

check the carb seat gasket for cracks and check bottom screws some of them will leak if they're not tight enough

You must be able to turn the lock to remove it. First,unscrew the tilt lever,then remove the 3 screws underneeth the colum trim cover and remove them. Then turn the key to the "RUN" position. On the back of the lock is a release button press it in with a small screw driver and remove the lock cylinder.

No...The problem comes in with the bolts that hold the flywheel onto the crankshaft. You just cant get to them with the tranny still mounted. And then at the other end,you have the timing chain. And in the middle (inside the oil pan you have the chain that drives the oil pump. Also...cleanliness is a big factor....pulling the engine and tranny as a unit out the top is not that difficult, but it is designed to come out the bottom. All the plugins are different..remove the crank pully, the intake manifold(so to give more clearance for the exhaust pipe to clear the "arm" part of the tranny in the back part of the engine), the tranny mount from the car(driver side) and bend the corner of the battery tray alittle. Then peel back the brake master cylinder without removing any brake lines... It comes out without any problems.

150 horse

I can't upload photos on this sensor, because it is very hard to see. It is located below the heater tubes that lead to the heater core. On the 99 model it is bolted into the engine block with 1 bolt going through the center of it, and the sensor is round, with a wire, and is about the size of a standard lug nut. You may need a mirror on a stick just to see it.

I would still be interested in a picture.

Thanks

go to autozone.com type in knock sensor in the product search, then year,make model. There is a photo there.

Right below the EGR valve bolted to the transmission.

I have a 2.3 quad 4 in my 95 z24 and a 2.4L in my 01 z24.

There is only one wat to set the timing on this engine, and if it the crankshaft has been turned without the cams turning you will have bent valves....but the timing mark on the crank is.... keyway up at the 12 o'clock position,(there is a mark) and the cams will be down. What I mean by that is the cam gears have little holes in them so you can slide a 8mm bolt in until it slides into a set hole behind the gear that is machined into the timing chain housing. A stud from the exhaust or intake manifold works great and are just the right size. If you are installing cams or timing chain & gears...turn the crank keyway to the 3 o'clock possition before removing the chain and gears so the pistons will be half up and down giving the valves plenty of room to move and you wont get bent valves. After you get your pins in the cam gears, turn the crank backwards to the 12 oclock position,then install the chain.

yes.......