Flooring

It varies greatly from product to product and from market

to market. The best way to get an answer is to put an ad on Craigslist

telling what you want installed, the more detail you can give the better the quote will be...ie..

"3/4 inch, unfinished oak hardwood over wood subfloor,

new construction, 400 sq feet, need it done this week, paying cash.".

The lesson here is that the more detail you put in the ad, the better the quote.. You will have to understand that not every installer has Golden Hands, some are thieves & butchers, so you may not always want the low bidder..

Dude! Gotta know what it is... sorry Bron Goo is not a lot of help. Specially in a shipping container, that could be anything in the world!

The smallest size would be 15x15 feet which is 225 feet2.

That is 9, 5x5 feet tiles.

Or it is 25, 3x3 feet tiles.

First, use a PLASTIC putty knife to scrape off all you can. A hair dryer will warm the tape and soften the glue so it scrapes off easier. Don't use metal or razor blades, as you risk gouging the floor. Then follow up with a product such as Goo-Gone or Lift-Off, or any other mild adhesive remover, with a non-abrasive scrubber pad. Oddly, I've found (by accident) that California Scents air freshener in the aerosol can works better than anything else for removing the sticky adhesive left behind by stickers, tape and labels without damaging the finish underneath. Be cautious of products such as acetone (nail polish remover), because even though they'll remove the sticky residue very well, they'll also dull the finish on your laminate - permanent damage. As with any product, test it first in an inconspicuous area (inside a closet?) before applying to your problem area. And wear appropriate protective gear - goggles, gloves, long sleeves, ventilation, etc. - as indicated on the product label. Then clean up the solvent residue with a mild cleaner on a rag (do NOT spray or pour directly on the floor!), and rub until it's clean and smudge-free. Window cleaners with alcohol work well; they won't smear, and the moisture evaporates quickly to minimize water damage.

It varies greatly from product to product and from market

to market. The best way to get an answer is to put an ad on Craigslist

telling what you want installed, the more detail you can give the better the quote will be... ie..

"3/4 inch, unfinished oak hardwood over wood subfloor,

new construction, 400 sq feet, need it done this week, paying cash.".

The lesson here is that the more detail you put in the ad, the better the quote.. You will have to understand that not every installer has Golden Hands, some are thieves & butchers, so you may not always want the low bidder..

Yes

One or two probably, depending on how many square feet are included in each carton. Check the label for your answer - they are all different. Your room is 20 square feet, but you should include some extra for waste - about 10%. So you'll need enough to cover 22 square feet.

One 13 ft x 13 ft tile covers 169 square feet, so 2 will be enough.

one (square) yard = 9 sq ft

678/9 = 75.3 yards

That roll of carpet has the square yardage of its width measured in yards multiplied by its length measured in yards.

You may need to unroll it to find the length exactly, or if you are only looking for an approximate area and hence length, you can assume the roll is made up of concentric rings of carpet, measure the diameter of each ring from the inside to the outside (to the backing of the carpet) and use these find the circumference of each ring and sum them - this sum can be calculated by summing the diameters and multiplying that sum by π. The last ring will not usually not be a full ring, so it can either be measured directly or added in as a fraction of the whole ring multiplied by its diameter.

Always and most building codes require it.

First, rub it with ice cubes to harden the wax. Scrape off all you can with a sharp edge or razor blade. Then apply dry paper towels or a brown paper bag, and iron it with a clothes iron, or use a hair dryer on the hottest setting - melting the remaining wax which will be absorbed by the paper. If any remains, try rubbing it with a product like Goo-Gone or a homemade solution of water with a little bit of vinegar and dish soap; or water with ammonia and powdered dish detergent which contains NO bleach.

Be aware the chemical solutions will probably strip off any sealer you have applied to the tile and/or grout. You will need to re-seal after removing wax.

Many things can go over ceramic with ease, but the "best" option is one which works in the room you're doing. For example, laminate flooring is most forgiving of the unevenness (groutlines) of ceramic tile and easiest to install - but I would not put laminate in a bathroom (it's not moisture resistant). For a bathroom, the best option over ceramic is sheet vinyl. Be sure to use leveling compound to smooth grout lines even with the surface of tiles first.

There are a few different ways to level your subfloor to make it ready for vinyl or linoleum flooring - depending on what kind of subfloor you have, and how much leveling has to be done.

If your subfloor is concrete, and is smooth and in good shape, you need put nothing down first - install your linoleum right to the concrete. If your concrete has cracks or even major areas of unevenness, you can apply a concrete leveling compound (trowel it smooth, or pour a self-leveling variety). Then flooring on top of that.

If your subfloor is wood, you'll need an underlayment. Most folks use 1/4"-5/16" wood underlayment designed for flooring, but a better option would be 1/4" tile backerboard (it's moisture resistant and won't rot like wood will). You can also apply the same sort of leveling compound I mentioned above, and trowel or pour that to your subfloor. With compound or underlayment, either way, once the floor is smooth and even, you're ready for flooring.

Yes, but only if it's glue-down carpet. You cannot install tack-strip and pad, and then stretch carpet over a floating floor because it will pull up sections of the flooring at the edges and very likely buckle in the middle. Then your carpet comes loose. Floating floors are incredibly EASY to remove - just bust a piece out at an edge, and the rest will come up like puzzle pieces. Only tools needed are a pry-bar, gloves and eye protection. Take it out - easy to do.

Width X Length = Area

9 x 7 = 63 square feet

10 x 8 = 80 square feet

12 x 15 = 180 square feet

6 x 4 = 24 square feet

It varies greatly from product to product and from market

to market. The best way to get an answer is to put an ad on Craigslist

telling what you want installed, the more detail you can give the better the quote will be... ie..

"3/4 inch, unfinished oak hardwood over wood subfloor,

new construction, 400 sq feet, need it done this week, paying cash.".

The lesson here is that the more detail you put in the ad, the better the quote.. You will have to understand that not every installer has Golden Hands, some are thieves & butchers, so you may not always want the low bidder..

YES

Because it's been cleaned with the wrong cleaner. Any oil-based or citrus cleaners or harsh cleaners may streak or leave a film on the floor - and show every footprint. Remember that Pergo is NOT WOOD, even if it looks like wood. It's made of laminate, the same stuff many countertops are made of. Plastic. Clean your Pergo with a cleaner made for laminate floors. Mist the cleaner on the floor or or onto a damp sponge mop or swiffer, then wipe clean. You may also use a vinegar/water solution or window cleaner, such as Windex.

Nylon carpet tends to be more resilient than other fibers, such as polyester or olefin (polypropylene). That means it will bounce back better when you move a piece of furniture, and won't wear down as quickly in traffic areas.

It's also much more stain resistant than polyester. Look at the color swatches while shopping for carpet. Notice which fiber has a more brilliant array of colors available - polyester, right? That's because poly takes a dye much better than nylon. (Hence, it will absorb and hold stains better, too!) If you must shop for polyester, then be sure to look for those which have been treated to be stain-resistant. Watch the warranties.

Olefin is more stain-resistant than nylon, but tends to feel scratchy while nylon is softer.

First, find the square footage of a 6" x 36" plank. 6 x 36 = 216 square inches. There are 144 square inches in a square foot (12" x 12" = 144). So divide 216 by 144 to get the square feet per plank. 216 / 144 = 1.5 sq ft per plank.

Your room is 16' x 12'. Multiply the two numbers to find square footage of the room: 16 x 12 = 192 square feet.

You have 192 square feet, using planks that are 1.5 sq ft each. 192 / 1.5 = 128 planks.

Generally, you will want to add from 5% to 10% for waste, depending on your layout (is it one big room, or several smaller rooms with lots of cutting?) (are you doing a straight layout, or diagonal?) and your skill level. If in doubt, add 10% to be safe.

128 planks + 10% --- that's 128 x 1.1 = 140.8 planks.

12 x 12 ( units inches) is one sq ft

you need 180 tiles

Yes! If you want it to last. Although there are different types, so just make sure your sales person explains the difference.

Im a tile expert based in Perth so you can contact me via info@holesaws.com

Thanks

Joanne!!

Using wax on hyperbaric chamber floors is generally not recommended. Wax can create a slippery surface, posing safety hazards for patients and staff. Additionally, the buildup of wax may interfere with the chamber's materials and maintenance requirements. It's best to consult the manufacturer's guidelines or a professional for appropriate flooring treatment options in a hyperbaric environment.

if i understood your question right you were asking how much would it be per sq foot if you got 307 sq feet of carpet for 1,316 dollars......... if so it would cost you $4.29 per sq foot. you take your amount you paid divided by the sq foot amount.