Flooring

Hood is usually measured in a range of 30 inch min to 36 inch max from the stove top. Hope that helps.

L x W = area 10.5 x 10.5 = 110.25 sq ft.

Yes, you do. Which glue depends on the substrate.

Wait until it drys and gently scrape with a putty knife.

About 100 but that depends on the shape of the 80 sq ft surface being covered and whether you are willing to cut the tiles several times or not. 100*13*9=11700 sq in

80*144=11520 sq in

so you don't even have two tiles over if the shape were perfect for the tiles.

Vinyl windows are a good choice. One of the biggest advantages of vinyl windows is their insulation performance. Vinyl is good at keeping heat in during winter and sealing your room from heat during summer. Improved insulation will result in reduced energy bills. They look good and come in all sorts of colors. You can even choose vinyl that looks just like wood. They're inexpensive to install and vinyl lasts a long time. It can withstand extreme temperatures without cracking or warping since the material is made of PVC.

48 yards assuming the carpet comes in 12' widths.

You would need 345 bundles to cover your floor.

The differences between medium density and high density fiberboard (mdf and hdf) do vary slightly between manufactures. These are some general facts. MDF is a product of soft woods that are broken down by a defibrator, added to wax and resin, and formed from heat and pressure. The majority of the wood comes from saw dust. It is moderately resistant to termites and mold. It can be quite moisture sensitive. HDF is made in a similar process as MDF, but is much more dense and made from exploded wood fibers and quite a bit more pressure. HDF is highly resistant to mold and infestation and not nearly as sensitive to moisture as MDF.

Not easily - the only realistic method is to use acid - preferably hydrochloric. In the UK it is very often sold as brick acid.

Vinegar doesn't normally stain marble, it etches it. The only way to fix it at this point is to sand it out. It needs to be done professionally.

You would need 450 tiles

To solve this problem, you would need to understand the concept of exponents, expressions, and powers. do 12.2 to the fourth power, and you will get 22153.34. And there is your answer.

Yes, provided the structure is able to hold up the weight as per the relevant construction codes.

Tile is best placed onto cement or cement boards. With that stated Custom Building Products, one the biggest makers of tile thinsets and cement boards says it is allowable, although not preferred to install on CDX plywood but your total floor must be 1 1/4" with all subfloors. Back splashes in areas that are not exposed to steam or water can install onto plaster walls.

If this is for an actual tiling job, the answer is 225.

First, convert feet into inches. 1 foot = 12 inches.

24 * 12 = 288 inches

So your garage is 288 inches by 288 inches.

288 inches / 19.5 inches = 14.77

So you would need 14.77 tiles across and 14.77 tiles deep.

Since you are buying whole tiles, you have to round up. So it would be 15 tiles x 15 tiles.

15 * 15 = 225 tiles.

Since many of the tiles have to be cut (0.77 of a tile), it is possible to use the other (0.23) as part of the flooring and get away with a few less tiles, but that's not practical in a real tiling job. It would look terrible.

The most practical way if holes are larger then 1/2" is to replace the tile. If the space is 1/2" or less sanded grout can be used.

It is a near miss. If it is a JSA required job then it's time to note the problem, if possible fix the problem and note steps to keep it from happening again.

If these are VCT tile, 12 x 12 or 9 x 9 inch, you can use a stripper to take off the yellowing affect. You can do the same with most vinyl but you will want to test it in a corner or closet first. Depending on why it is yellowing it may or may not work.

This is somewhat perplexing. Pergo is a sealed surface. It has no pores to allow blood to absorb. A good careful cleaning with a laminate cleaner should take care of it. Try using a little vinegar and water to help, but don't use to much water or you can ruin your floor.

This all depends on the floor. Concrete that is level is a wonderful substrate for many types of flooring. * Ceramic or porcelain tile: are great on concrete. In fact it is the preferred substrate. Laid on a level floor with a good latex fortified thinset, you should expect this floor to last a lifetime. * Vinyl: Another great floor for concrete. Glued directly to the floor you really don't need to do much special. The surface needs to be free of defect, as any will show through to the surface. Today there are great vinyl floors that look like wood (not a perfect representation mind you) that you can put onto a water or moisture prone area like basements. * Wood: With wood you do have some limitations. You cannot lay a solid wood floor over concrete. You also cannot put solid wood subgrade (below the soil line of the outside of your house, basements, sunken living rooms etc). You can though lay an engineered wood onto concrete, even subgrade. Engineered wood is plywood with real wood planking atop. These are laid with a high quality latex or urethane based glue. * Floating Wood or Laminate: Like a lot of floors, floating floors must have a very level substrate. 1/8" in a 6' radius is the standard idea. If you have a substrate level enough, you should be good to go. Most pads for laminate or wood are already a moisture barrier. If it is not, or the pad is attached to the floor already you need to lay 6 mil rolled plastic over the entire floor. Beyond that, the floor should be very similar to installing onto a wood subfloor.

You would need 8 boxes, but you would have very little waste. 9 boxes would give you the extra you need and allow you to have one dye lot. That is so important with tile.

I belive it's 30x11, which is 330 meters squared

If your laminate didn't shine out of the box, nothing will really shine it. A clean floor shines more then a dirty one. Use a good laminate cleaner, like Pergo's.