Depends how new the truck is, but carb systems are all mechanical, so basically just finding an intake/carb set up should be pretty much a bolt on job on an older fuel injected truck with mechanical/vacuum driven ignition. However you also need to consider new linkage to the carb, new fuel pump, and possibly new linkages to the transmission. Newer ones also are computer ignition controlled so you may have some problems there.

The question is why? Unless you are running a truck for the track, it doesn't really make too much sense to do this.

If you're looking for performance and faster throtle response,it might be a solution but you have to consider changing the cam to a more apropriate one.Also make sure you do not have a e4od or aod since this tranny operates using the CPU and the sensors on the intake.You must also know that you will need an auxilary fuel pump operated by switch since your block is not ported for a fuel pump.The fuel pump that you need must be arround 6-8 pounds of pressure compare to the injection that was arround 45 pounds of pressure(way too much for a carb).Ignition is also operated by the CPU so your best bet is to go with a new ignition syteme (module and distibutor)like a msd.It is a lot of money to invest even if you know what you're doing.Hope it helps.

It may be rusted on to the shaft coming out of the auto. Break it off, but do not bend the shaft.

no

usually what happens is the butterfly gums up with dirt/ soot looking stuff. grab a can of carbi cleaner and an airline and blow out the throttle body. i usually use a rag or bit of paper towel to cover is so stuff doesn't fly everywhere cos carbi clean strips paint. whilst doing this i usually work the butterfly to get right in there. note: when starting the car it will cough and splutter for a few seconds cos of all the carbi clean you use. at the same time clean any linkages that are part of the choke system. cos they can sometimes stick depending on the setup. if it's a manual choke . ie a choke cable setup, check to make sure the cable hasn't seized of lack of lubrication.

Firstly remove the thermostat from its Housing Assembly, usually held down by 2 or 3 bolts depending on the model of vehicle. Boil a pot of water whilst immersing the thermostat into boiling water, you will notice the centre rod pullback in the direction of its spring, opening a larger hole within the thermostat device. If the hole is visibly opened, the thermostat is operating as required. If you are experiencing Over Heating, good idea to check the Clutch-fan is operating normally. Over heating in the EA and EB models is either one of 4 things needing attention, Clutch-fan, thermostat, Radiator and/or Head or Head gasket. Dont remove the thermostat from these models as the onboard Computer requires these for sensors to operate correctly.

Hi, Try rewording your question in proper english, maybe ask a friend how to word your question so that we know what you mean and can then answer it properly...

To set the timing you must earth the ECU otherwise the ECU will be constantly changing the timing as you alter the angle of the distributor. You need to make a flat spade connector with a piece of wire and a alligator clip on the other end. On the drivers side there will be 3 spare plugs near the firewall, find the singular female spade connector and earth it by simply clipping it to the body. Earthing the ECU puts the motor into its base timing self test mode. For 30sec the motor will rev to 3000rpm then will drop back down. Then you have 3min to change the timing before the ECU kicks back in.

theres 4 tamper proof torx bit screws under the trim

Hmmm

Transmissions do not use oil. They will use either automatic transmission fluid, or gear lube for manual transmissions. Without more information we cannot give you a real answer, other than you need to talk to a shop, and give them the full make, model and year.

Red is your 12 volt regulated, yellow is the 12 volt constant which serves as memory, black of course is a ground, your blue wire is a power antenna, and the rest of the wires are for speaker leads. You really need to buy a wire harness kit for it and a mounting kit as well. If not, pending on what factory oem spec are or if it as a factory amp then you have to bypass it as well but the wire kit comes with all hardware needed to do so. Don't ever cut wires and try to figure out whats what! You will do severe damage to fuses and burn out other components.

The fuse block is part of the headlight switch. Look under the dash just below the headlight switch and you will find it plainly visible.

I assume it's either stuck or broken off. Is it the off/lock position? The Accesory On psotion is the first past the Lock/Off position and older lock cylnders sometimes stick in the Accessory On position. If you can't move the key to the Off/lock positon, try wigglign the key a littel to see if you can rotate the key all the way back towards you. Teh alternative is to remove the ignintion lock assmbly completely adn take it to a locksmith.

To remove the ignition swtich assembly, disconnect the battery, remove the 5 screws holding the steering binacle, pry apart and remove. Next drill small holes into the tops of the breakaway bolt heads and use a screw extracter tool to unthread the bolts. Remove the two screws holdign the switch assembly to the base of the igtnion lock body.

Good luck

Malcolm

I had a '99 and my cousin has an '03 Galant.I first removed the trim around the radio and the a/c controls which pops right off.Second, I removed the four screws that hold the a/c controls, which gives you enough clearance to be able to push the a/c controls low enough to remove the radio.Next all you have to do is raise the radio a little and pull it out from the front brackets holding it in place.That should be it and I had to use the side metal brackets attached to the factory radio in order to attach the new radio.

about 6 quarts

Its eaiser to replace the radio, or ring a friendly ford dealer and see them about accesing some codes but that will take time and effort, so its eaiser to replace with an updated version.

It's in the bottom of the ICC. You have to pull the ICC out to get to it. Be careful not to drop it or turn it upside down. Not sure why this is, but that's what the warning sticker on it says!

Bring your timing mark up to top dead centre then drop your distibutor in to the block linning up your rotor on the distributor to were your number one spark plug lead will sit make sure you have enough movement for advance and retard to make sure of this you have to bush the intake manifold all the way to the head if you dont have the movement you are one notch out on the distributor remove and re set if it doesnt fire up you are a 180 degres out so take your number one spark plug lead of and put it to were number six lead sits and work your timing out from there 1 5 3 6 2 4 firring order