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about 6 quarts

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with ignition off hold done the button on the instrument cluster. turn ignition on. wait about 10 sec. the trip meter may reset but it will reappear to what it was before resetting the spanner symbol if done right. if done right. the spanner should dissappear.

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below right side of steering wheel small plastic panel opens to reveal fuse panel

how do you remove fuse panel and which fuse goes where?

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To replace the window regulator in a ford falcon depends on the model, however the process is fairly similar. 1. Remove door trim (there should be some screws along the outside edges and behind the door handle) 2. Tape the door glass to the door or have someone hold it up as the next step will let it go. 3. Remove the two bolts that attach the door glass to the regulator. 4. Disconnect the power motor connector. 5. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the regulator to the door. 6. Remove the regulator and replace, perform all steps in reverse order.

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Red is your 12 volt regulated, yellow is the 12 volt constant which serves as memory, black of course is a ground, your blue wire is a power antenna, and the rest of the wires are for speaker leads. You really need to buy a wire harness kit for it and a mounting kit as well. If not, pending on what factory oem spec are or if it as a factory amp then you have to bypass it as well but the wire kit comes with all hardware needed to do so. Don't ever cut wires and try to figure out whats what! You will do severe damage to fuses and burn out other components.

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Just came back as I found out how to do this a couple of weeks ago.

The glovebox comes out. The fanspeed regulator comes out which leaves a small square about 4cm x4cm with which to work through. The evaporator is about the size of a pineapple (from what I could see) and cleaning it involved using a bottle brush, screwdriver, wire , and just about anything long enough to get right up and in there considering only your fingers can get inside that hole to work. You do have to be careful that you don't put the screwdriver right through and burst the core. In the end I used degreaser as well. There was virtually no air exchange on mine as it was packed tight with mud and lint and many many leaves.

A few hours later and I have good air pressure coming out my vents again.

others. Apparently only a few makes and models have this access, Commodore is not one. Cheers, Jo

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Make your way to the front of the engine, remove the plastic v-belt cover from the power steering pump inlet, the sensor sits just above the crank pulley. There's a plastic plug with two wires which needs to be pulled out from the knock/crank sensor. Then use a small spanner to loosen the 2 screws on either side of the sensor.

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Does it have fuel? spark? compression?

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Read your owners manual if you have one. Red light is normally a warning of low oil pressure. SRS is an indication something is wrong with the air bag system. Check Engine Light means there is a problem with the emissions system. Maintenance Required means some scheduled maintenance is required, normally an oil/filter change. Orange or red light can mean engine is overheating. Can also be a gauge with a thermometer for engine temperature. Charging gauge tells you if the alternator is charging your battery. TC or TCS or ETC stands for Traction Control. If the light is on there is a problem or the traction control is turned off. OD stands for overdrive.

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I just checked the lever on mine that switches from fresh air to recirculated , this morning :) The procedure is the same.

You need to get behind the controls to view the connections at the back.

Below the dash on each side of the steering wheel are two rectangular removable bits. On the right hand side, it is the part that houses the 'boot release' button. On the left it is the same shape but without the button. Unscrew these. Look up into the gap left and you will see another screw for each side. Unscrew these too.

You will be removing the black 'lining' that goes around whole dash above the steering wheel. It goes around the airvent control switches as well as the speedometer etc.

You will see all the screws holding those air controls into place. Remove them and slide the compartment out. You can then check if any of the wiring or other bits and pieces have come loose behind your temperature control lever.

It isn't hard but will save some $$$ if you do it instead of the mechanic.CHeers,JO

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Ford Motors was incorporated in 1903 by Henry Ford in Deaborn, Michigan in USA.

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The best place I've found for these specs are in the manual put out by MOTOR. Great set of manuals. You can find specification in a HAYNES manual as well. You can order a manual for this car at either website. You may even be able to get your local car care associates ie. O'reilly, Autozone, Advance, NAPA to order you a manual. Check your local library for the manual as well. I've used many a manual from the local library to fix a vehicle when in need of a specification. Check for vacuum leaks from vacuum hoses before making any adjustments. Without knowing what specifications you need I'm guessing. Are you are wanting to adjust the needle valve adjustments? Float Adjustment? Needle valve adjustments are Low speed and High speed adjustment. ONe is for Low speed and will affect how the car idles and the other will affect Higher speeds. I've always adjust the low speed side by turning it in till it is hand tight, don't wrench on it or you can destroy the seats. Turn it back out till it's about 2 1/2 turns out, start the car then adjust it till the engine idles without rocking back and forth. For the high speed adjustment I always tighten it hand tight then back it out about 2 1/2 turns and adjust until when I accelerate the engine it accelerates without hesitation from low side to high side. This will get you in a ball park setting. Check for vacuum leaks while you are in there and replace any hoses that are more than 3-5 years old. Most vacuum hoses can be had cheap and cause a lot of retuning for no reason if you have leaks. For the float valve, I've always removed the seat that the float is valve is using and cleaned the screen first. Then I adjust the float so that it will shut off before the top of the float is 1/8 inch from the top of the float bowl. It has worked for me in almost evey carb I've rebuilt. I hope this is helpful.

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I assume that you are talking about the seat squab, or base.

There are clips welded to the floor. These clips look a bit like the number 1. They face towards the rear of the car though. Metal loops on the underside of the seat base hook under the top part of the "number 1".

To unclip the base, you have to firmly push the base down and rearwards, then upwards. This sounds harder than it is.

To clip the base back in, you need to carefully line up the loops on the sloping part, at the top of the clips. Then push the base down, firmly. You will feel the loops slide down the slope and then pop under the clip.

The backrests should unbolt. Just flip them forward and you should find bolts under the carpet. Although, you probably wont need to remove these, if fitting seat covers.

The side bolsters are held in place by a bolt at the bottom and by the striker plate, for the backrest lock.

Best of luck.

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the intake air temp sensor is in the inlet manifold

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There are a few factors that will complicate things...

First, what size is your engine? a V8 will obviously have more towing power than a straight six.

Is the car a manual or automatic? A manual is more versatile and lets you use the whole range of engine power, an auto may require a transmission cooler for heavy duty towing.

What are you towing? The tongue weight of a trailer is a big factor when towing with a car.

What condition is your car in? A forty year old car with an original engine probably couldn't pull a drunken sailor off a dead hooker.

The straight answer: if your car runs well, a reasonably in shape adult male can lift the tonge of your trailer and your car has a manual transmission and a straight six engine then you can pull about 2000 kg max, a little more with a V8. a little less with an auto transmission. The best way is to test it out, tow the trailer around for a while, if you really struggle up hills then it is best not to do long distance, trailering is tough on a car and will be double tough on a car that old, make sure your brakes are in good working order!!! - hope this helps, good luck!

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mine only had central had to install remote entry afterwards mine only had central had to install remote entry afterwards

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Depending on what type of central locking you have there a two mwethods and by reseting I gather you mean reprogramming the fobs to the cars locking system.

First you need to ascertain if you have IR (Infra Red) or RF (Radio) Central locking, the R plate came with both.

IR cars have little square black windows on the exterior door handles at the front.

RF cars dont, but the cool thing about RF equipped cars is that a 3 button key from a newer ford will open the boot/trunk remotly too!

Anyway to reprogram IR keys do this:

Put the key into the ignition and turn to position I. After 10 seconds the red alarm LED should illuminate. As soon as it does remove the key from the ignition - the LED should remain lit. Open the drivers window. Point the remote key at the front door sensor and press the rear button until the light on the transmitter illuminates, keep the button pressed until it does! With the rear button held in press the front button 4 times then release both at the same time. The control lights in both the clock and fob will flash 4 times to indicate sucseful programming. Turn the ignition back on to exit programming mode

To reprogram RF keys do this:

Insert the ignition key and turn from position II to position 0 and back four times within three seconds. Remove the ignition key. During the next 20 seconds press one of the transmitter buttons on each key you wish to program. The warning system LED wil flash to confirm programming. You have to code each and every key each time you do this.

I used this method for my P reg mondeo (IR) but used position 11 not pos 1 and it worked a treat!

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1.1mm +/- 0.1

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Loosen the bolts holding the alternator in place and then loosen the bolt on the bracket with the slot. Slide the alternator down the slot until the belt is loose enough to remove. Install the new belt and the slide the alternator back until the belt is tight. Now you need to set the belt deflections. When free span is less than 12 inches between pulleys, belt deflection should be 1/8 to 1/4 inch. When free span is longer than 12 inches, belt deflection should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Check the deflection by pressing the belt halfway between pulleys. Tighten down all bolts to 30 lb/ft of torque.

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Behind the steering wheel is a part called the "clock spring" or something of the sort. I had the same problem with my EF. I had that replaced and it all works well now. Just out of curiosity hold the ON switch and push RES. When i do this my horn sounds. Just wondering if i stuffed up when i put my clock spring in.

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You might check all the ground wires going to the headlights to make sure you are getting a good ground.

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IT IS UNDER THE BONNET LOCATED NEAR THE BATTERY IN A SMALLISH FUSE BOX

THERE IS ALSO 1 NEAR THE AIR BOX RIGHT BEHING THE HEADLIGHT

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This "motor" as u call it is simply the ABS. This is found on EF Futura and above. It is not a motor at all, but does have brake lines going in, and four coming out. You should be able to trace the one closest to the front right wheel. The sensors work by having a disk with holes in it spinning with the wheel on the inside of the brake rotor with a magnetic pick up sending information about the speed of the wheel back to the computer which then triggers a release of brake to a wheel that is turning slower than the others (IE - The computer thinks it has locked up).