Bring your timing mark up to top dead centre then drop your distibutor in to the block linning up your rotor on the distributor to were your number one spark plug lead will sit make sure you have enough movement for advance and retard to make sure of this you have to bush the intake manifold all the way to the head if you dont have the movement you are one notch out on the distributor remove and re set if it doesnt fire up you are a 180 degres out so take your number one spark plug lead of and put it to were number six lead sits and work your timing out from there 1 5 3 6 2 4 firring order
It is not an easy job, if you are not a confident mechanic I would suggest you pay someone to do it or buy an workshop manual which will explain step by step.
It requires the removal of several major components of the engine (e.g. Radiator, coolant reservoir, Airbox, Rocker gear, Cam and cam sprocket) some of which if not refit correctly will cause serious damage to your engine.
There are also a number of electrical connectors, Coolant hoses, Vacuum hoses and cables that need to be disconnected and reconnected on reassembly.
The main tricks to remember if attempting this job,
1. Have a lifting jig (engine crane or gantry) as the head is heavy and bulky with all the accessories bolted to it (it is easier and quicker to remove with the manifolds still attached and remove them on the bench later) and it's very easy to damage Vacuum connectors and gaskets and surfaces on removal and reassembly.
2. When removing the cam sprocket, cable tie the chain to the sprocket to reduce the chance of the chain going out of time and don't turn the engine at all once the cam sprocket is taken off.
3. Clean, Clean, Clean and Clean again, the main thing to remember is that for the new gaskets, O rings etc to seal up properly, everything needs to be clean and gasket surfaces then sprayed with a product like Hylomar to help locate the gasket correctly and seal up any small imperfections.
4. The head needs to be properly crack tested, hardness tested and machined flat before refitting as if it has been over heated (which is the most common symptom of a blown head gasket) then the head WILL be warped on removal, MAY be Soft in spots and MAY be cracked which will all result in either the head gasket failing again or the engine still over heating and/or leaking or burning coolant which will result in the job having to be done again.
1. You walk into a Holden dealer
2. Buy a Commodore
3. Grow some balls
Problem solved! :)
If your looking at the engine front on, it is the top right but right underneath. The only way to get at it from underneath the car.
Found out the hard way it is very difficult to remove and replace due to the position of the bolts, very hard to get to.
A "1998" FALCON ? ? ? HARD TO BELIEVE. I HAD ONE BUT THAT WAS "1970"
First off what part of the A/C system isn't working?
Does it just need to be serviced? Out of gas? Electrical? Your description isn't enough to diagnose.
I'm not sure when they started using r134a gas but i can tell you that's what they use now.
Central locking is the security system on many vehicles, which makes it very important in many lives. Central locking allows for sound of mind when a vehicle is out of sight and in a potential insecure location.
I'm pretty sure it doen't matter, the total resistance of the circuit is what counts, the diagrams I have seen however predominantly put the resistor on the + (anode) side of the LED.
The brake warning light
Go to motor vehicle licensing in the country concerned.
Open road cruising (110k) shoukd return 600 - 700 k's Mainly city driving should return around 450 - 550 k's
it has 2 relays under the hood, 4 un der the steering wheel where the fuse box also is, and 2 in both front doors if you have electric windows and ciggy lighters
The XF falcon bullbar will fit a AU falcon with a little bit of fabrication.