Head Gaskets and Valve Covers

The first thing I would do is completely flush out the cooling system and check that the water pump is working efficiently

9 ft-lbs

my car overheated and now i have excessive water coming out the tailpipe of my 97 Nissan altima . is the head gasket blown ?

There are two basic head gasket materials used. First is the steel shim type, with is thinner, and will up your effective, or mechanical compression ratio. The second is a composite type, that will lower compression, as it is thicker, bjut, seals better.

Maybe for a few minutes, then never again!

Anything that causes the engine to run hot, like a faulty thermostat, can cause the head gasket to blow. also say a coolant hose ruptures, all the coolant is then drained from the radiator and the engine is then essentially running with no way to cool down, gasket blows. there are many ways for the engine to run hot, but it is the main reason a head gasket would blow out.

check coolent level

make steam

Overheating.

to much heat

10 inch lbs

I'm sorry to say I didn't have a good experience with the product, and it was fairly spendy (had it worked the price would have seemed more reasonable). It was used on my kids 86 1/2 Toyota Supra. The first thing that was kind of sketchy were the instructions. On the bottle it just said if you have a 4 cyl. with no air conditioning, only use a half bottle. Well this was a 6 cyl. and had AC so I planned to use the whole thing. After the engine cooled, I drained out about a gallon of coolant to make space. The second issue was that even after shaking up the bottle really well the product was very thick. When pouring it in the top of the radiator, the cooling passages quickly got covered up and then the stuff wouldn't go down into the tubes. To get around this, I started adding back in coolant trying to flush it into the radiator. This process was taking forever... adding a little bit of the Head Gasket Fix (HGF) and chasing it down with coolant. Finally about 4/5 of the HGF was in and I'd had enough, so I moved on and finished off with the rest of the directions. Well a few days later my kid called and said that the radiator hoses were sucked flat in the car. Had them bring it over and found that a bunch of the HGF had collected like mud in the bottom of the coolant overflow tank. This overflow tank had a flush cut hose that went from the cap on top down to very close to the bottom of it to draw out coolant when the engine cooled. I believe that the mud had clogged the overflow hose and caused the radiator hoses to suck flat since no coolant could be drawn in from the overflow. I drained and flushed the radiator and the hoses sucking flat stopped. It still loses coolant and isn't worth a head gasket replacement, so we'll just add coolant from here on in until we get rid of it.

first stage 20 NM and second stage 240 degree that's all starting from the midle going out evanly

well a couple things could be wrong depending on what year. if it is a hydraulic lifter then the oil pressure might not be high enough for the oil to reach the lifter causing a knock. another problem could be that your rod and main bearings could be worn out causing a knock and low oil pressure.

Sure it will drive. It will drive right along wearing out the rod and crank bearings. Destroying the piston rings and eating the metal off the cylinder walls, wearing out the lifters, and generally self destructing. As you can see, you should not even start this engine let alone drive it one mile. Have it repaired or you will be buying another engine.

Yes, but indirectly. Without the radiator cap in place, or using a faulty radiator cap, you run the risk of overheating the engine, which can cause head gasket failure.

No,

The 650 has larger valves and larger diameter combustion chamber, so you have not enough compression and the valves wil stuk on the cilinder!

yes there is 2 gaskets and 2 filter screens 1 between the electrical solenoid and one between the valve body and the head and it is common for the seals to leak when they get old and the rubber drys out

Yes you can damage the car by driving with a blown turbo. The most damage would be done to the engine because at high rpms it can begin to scrape metal on metal causing shards of the turbo to enter into the engine. Also if you accelerate at i high rate, it may begin to smoke because of the oil in the turbo. Damage may also be done to the exhaust. Accelerate slowly, check your oil and coolant, and you should be ok. But you're going to want to change that turbo out asap!

Cylinder head 43Nm Cylinder head cover 10Nm

Loss of coolant with no apparent leak, overheating, white smoke from exhaust, foamy substance on underside of oil fill cap, oil level overfull, & air bubbles escaping from radiator.

Using new head bolts & lubing the threads tighten to 25Nm then a further 90 degrees+ another 90+ another 90+ 45 degrees.

It's done in 5 Stages.

Renew Bolts: Yes

Stage 1: 25 NM

Stage 2: 90 Degrees

Stage 3: 90 Degrees

Stage 4: 90 Degrees

Stage 5: 15 Degress

This information has been taken from AutoData 3.24

Hope this helps.

Maybe, but not necessarily. Why did it need to be replaced the first time? Was that problem ever fixed?