There could be a problem with the jetting (for your altitude) or the condition of the air filter (dirty?). These are what I would check first.

Check with http://www.ktmcyclehutt.com for plastic kits

250cc per fork

The head stem is located under the handlebars. You have a nut on top of the top triple clamp, that is your head stem nut.

mine goest 86 stock!

If you just bored it once or twice over, your stock spark plug will be all you need. A NGK BR10ECM (or corresponding plug from another brand) with a .032" (0.8mm) gap.

105 mph with out modification

Look at the vin number on the right side of the steering head tube. 10th character identifies the year. For example: 1988(J), 1989(K), 1990(L), 1991(M), 1992(N), 1993(P), 1994(R), 1995(S), 1996(T), 1997(V), 1998(W), 1999(X), 2000(Y)------2001(1), 2002(2), 2003(3), 2004(4), 2005(5), 2006(6), 2007(7), 2008(8)

the ktm 65 sx goes 60mph and its faster then the other 65s

60:1

it needs to be revved its probably loading up if it is blue smoke oil its supposed to do that thats the oil and gas mixture

Basically, the XC-W is the same as the older EXC models. XC stands for cross country, XC-W stands for cross country- wide ratio transmission. The EXC is the enduro cross country bike, that is now set up with a headlight, tail light and very restrictive silencer for road riding. The EXC is street legal out of the crate. The XC-W is the race bike that comes with a motocross number plate on front but has the wiring harness and headlight switch, plus a wiring harness for the tail light as well. You can take the EXC and derestrict it and change the jets and set it alongside an XC-W that has the lights added and you will have the same bike.

I have the XC-W that I have made street legal for dual sport rides, but it still rips through the woods.

The EXC is also more of an Enduro and the XC-W is more of a racing bike so the revs can be pushed higher.

KTM recommends Motorex Top Speed 4T 15W50.

580

850

.7L

64.9 cc

About 70mph

3002 gears

It really isn't that hard though it sure looks like you have to disassemble the whole thing. Four screws hold the outer case on, two on each end. ...though before we begin, I bet you know the obvious, such as all heaters can do you bad if they have been heating recently. I assume your heater has been idle for awhile. If it has been used, give it 30 minutes. First, assuming you have a fresh wick in hand, pull the fuel tank out of the right end (if you are looking at it from the front, with the burner front and center). Set aside. Next take those four screws out of the ends of the heater. You may Be able to swing the front grill open. Lift on the right edge of the grill and swing it toward you and left. Grab the burner and set aside. Now (with the four screws removed) tilt the case toward you and lift it off, being careful about the knobs. After doing that, unbolt the return mechanism and set aside. Pull the knob and return cog straight off the shaft. The knob especially will be tight but you should be able to pull it off. Remove anything else you need to (like the heat shield) to get to the outer wick guide's bolts (often wing nuts are here, I think Corona uses the Philips Head bolts.). Lift to get to the wick. Pull shaft to disengage it from the adjuster, then lift the wick itself to remove. Installation is reverse of dissasembly but CHECK FIT AT EACH STEP! You WILL have some tuning to do (wick too high/uneven, knob shaft needs to turn one way or the other, etc). The new wick also has instructions with it. Finish assembly after checking operation of everything by filling the fuel tank with fresh, water clear #1 kerosene. Insert tank and give it 30 minutes before trying to light it. If you try to light it too soon you may scorch the new wick and it won't do right.

Kx 100s are easy and cheep to fix. Ktms are great motorcycles but they can be more expensive to repair. Kx 100

ktms are faster then yamahas because yamahas are from japan which use basic but strong parts, which deliver a set amount of power ,

ktms are from germany which are upgraded parts with a bit less strength but deliver a great amount more power, but although the ktms are a great deal quicker , you could change a yamahas sprockets for more top end which could end up being that same

If it's kickstart, you need to follow this routine: key on, no throttle. Pull choke when cold, pull compression release and kick through the stroke 5-10 times, release comp release and push through stroke til you get to a spot where it's to hard to kick through. This is top dead center of the piston. Pull the comp release and push the kickstart lever about 2 inches, then release the comp release, let the kick starter come to the top, then kick as hard as you can! If it doesn't start, do it all over again. Once you get this figured out, the bikes usually start pretty easy. If you've got a stock edelbrock carb, they are apparently junk and you may need to get a newer carb (FCR or Mikuni, I think). Look at thumpertalk.com for addtl info.

dry weight: 104.6 kg or 230.6 pounds