85

NGK BR8ECM

Check with your local KTM shop would be your best bet.

I have a KTM 300exc and when I had this problem my water pump seal had stARTED LEAKING CREATING PRESSURE IN CRANKCASE AND ADDING WATER TO OIL pushing oil out the vent. might check it...

Bruce San Jose Calif

32 to 1 or 50 to 1

2008 Base price MSRP(US) $5,498.00

I like The four stroke because of the torque. but the two stroke is a bit quicker on the jump, the both fast but the four strokes and take you more place's. The two strokes are very jumpy so they like two slide out goin up hills

10th character- Identifies the model year. For example: 1988(J), 1989(K), 1990(L), 1991(M), 1992(N), 1993(P), 1994(R), 1995(S), 1996(T), 1997(V), 1998(W), 1999(X), 2000(Y)------2001(1), 2002(2), 2003(3), 2004(4), 2005(5), 2006(6), 2007(7), 2008(8) or Take your 17 digit vin and enter it here: http://www.motoverse.com/tools/vin/ktm.asp You will learn a lot more than just the year with this website.

around 160-165mph.

They have 293.20 cc.

Go to the link I just posted in "links" and do exactly as it says, except on my 1995 KTM 620 I kick through about 8-10 kicks with decom lever pulled in, then find tdc (see the link) then give it a BIG kick. If you've got an edelbrock carburetor, I hear those are VERY tough to get to run well. For more info, go to ktmtalk.com and advrider.com. Here's a link to advrider.com KTM 640/lc4 threads - lots of good 620 info here. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86958. Good Luck!

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Maybe the pilot jet is clogged or you need to change pilot jet size. It sounds like it may be a fuel/ air delivery problem. Air filter clean? Filter over oiled and causing rich? Another thing though, don't overlook the electrical side. It may run great once started but I would check the spark while trying to kick it over. You may have a coil getting weak.

there is no such thing as a 1 stroke only 2 and 4

80 +/- without mods

they say the valves should be checked every 40 hours butt rarley need to be ajusted. change oil and filters every 10 hrs . clean air filter when nessacery .easy to inspect du to snap on filter cover. i personally reckomend its first service be done at dealer then pick there brain for what they would personally do if it where there machine. invest in a scotts stearnig stabalizer if you want to ride 5th and sixth gear with no fear. woods riding i would get an after market electric fan this is what ive done with my 05 and no one comes close to keeping up and i dont have to even try the bike rides itself so treat her nice

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The EXC range was designed and built for racing.. hence the "racing" moniker as in KTM525EXC Racing. As such the design is one to reduce weight. When reducing weight the cooling and mass asorbtion rate for taking heat out of the drive train is reduced. A road bike will have stronger and thicker metal components and be designed for sustained high speeds for use on the road. A race bike is built down to a target weight and servicing schedule periods reduced dramatically.

The bike has a very small oil capacity.

As above the service intervals would be frightening to any road bike owner. When I got my KTM525 MXC in 2005 (second hand) I serviced it as per the schedule in the KTM manual.. I changed the oil after every long trail ride and the filter was swapped for a fresh clean and oiled one. I changed the oil and filters after every other ride out and checked the valve clearances once a month.

After the first year the bike was running just as well as it had when I got it but I was using a lot of oil and lots of oil filters. I'd be out on the bike at least twice a week with an enduro once a month.

5 years later and 30,000+ miles and the bike is still running well. I recently had a rolling road tune and jetting carried out and the bike has recorded 45.3bhp at the rear wheel. The authorised KTM mechanic told me there was nothing that needed doing to the engine and the valves were spot on. Note all the engine parts are original and the head has not been off.

For the past two years I have reduced the number of oil changes to once every two trail rides ( 300-400 miles, 15-20hrs) or after every wet day, but still replace the air filter after every ride and have a tight cleaning schedule where I will jet wash the bike after every ride and allow the bike to warm up (with new filter) after (until the rad fan kicks in) then turn it off and remove the oil filler cap to allow and condensation to escape.

Even when jet washing I've only replaced the wheel/shock/head/swing arm bearings once.

The only real problem I have had is with screw threads failing in the last year or so. Two of the rear filter cover threads have gone and were re hellicoiled and one of the filter cap bolts snapped on unwinding. The sump plug thread failed and needed a hellicoil and two of the lower screen bolts heads and one side screen bolt heads have rounded off and needed drilling out.

You will note the failures of the screw threads /bolt heads are all associated with the oil changes. I did a calculation and found I was surprised when it showed I'd had those bolts out and in (twice a month for 5 years) over 120 times!

I always have spare new sump plug and screen bolts and replace them at the slightest sign of rounding off.. I've replaced the light alloy filter cover bolts with stronger steel bolts and do up hand tight only.

But for 30,000 trail miles on a 2005 KTM525MXC designed for racing, I think these bikes are very well built and if looked after will survive longer than most.

I always use Motorex oil and KTM filters. I have about 10 air filters and wash them in a putoline bucket and re oil in a Putoline Action Filter Cleaner Kit.. then keep clean and oiled air filters in individual plastic seal bags.

Kronreif and Trunkenpolz (men who found the company), Mattighofen (town where company founded).

In answering this I would like to ask a question. Has it always made this "clinking" moise or did it just recently start. Most likely if it was something loose in the gear box you wouldn't be able to shift through the gears. Since you didn't say anything about that I'm assuming it does shift ok. First I would drain the gear oil (starting the bike up and warming the oil up before draining) and look for metal shavings in the oil. If it does not expel any metal with the oil, I would add oil back into the gear box, start it up and ride it long enough to warm it up and take note of the noise. Note the following: 1) estimate what rpm range the noise is occuring 2) note if the noise goes away at mid-full throttle 3) Does it shift into all gears 4) is it shifting smooth or does it shift notchy and try to hang up while shifting My 525 makes a little bit of a chatter when it has been lugged down and you roll the throttle on, this is normal for the 525. Not sure about the 105's though. If it persist's I would run it by your KTM dealer and have them check it out. Tell them you changed oil and if you found any metal shavings when changing it and also tell them the responses on the 4 questions above. This will give them some info on their diagnosis.

Yes, the X-Bow debuted in 07. Check the link below for 09 specs.