The age can be determined. Take the serial number into your local dealer and they can look it up for you.

The John Deere LA130 is a model of riding lawnmower produced by the John Deere Company. The mower uses a 48 inch mower belt. Replacement mower belts are available online and at specific retailers.

Check with your John Deere dealer. No, not Home Depot or Lowe's but an actual business that works on and sells John Deere mowers.

John Deere made two of them for the 318 John Deere, a Model 47 which is a "2 stage snowblower", AND very expensive if you ever do find one for sale, and the other one is a Model 49, which is as "single stage snowthrower" that's not worth much in deep or wet snow. Bercomac makes 2 stage snow blowers that fit JD and many others, I'd check with them first and also find out if there's a dealer near you so you can go see for yourself, on the Internet it's: Bercomac.com

The 108 is an 8hp Briggs & stratton tractor made from about 1980 to 1986. It was replaced by the JD 130. Your JD dealer should be able to look up the microfilm listing for the tractor and give you an exact year of manufacture from the serial number.

The Scott brand was made by John Deere from 1999-2002. They produced push mowers and riding mowers and a 2554 medium duty Garden tractor with a Ground engaging capable (plowing, tilling and heavier work) tuff-torq K66 transmission. They also made a great line of reel mowers.

I am including a link (see below) where the manuals are available for download.

Indoor containers and raised beds are two ways of planting. Planting can be achieved in a number of ways and through a variety of mediums, from ground-associated to hanging and watery techniques.

100 dollars if its in great condition

The deck must be slipped beneath the machine from the left, the lift lever locked down and the rear hangers and front hanger plate attached. The belt will take take a 90 degree twist with the front part to the left side.

Not nearly enough info to answer this question. For one, John Deere doesn't use one nomenclature exclusively for one piece of equipment. Also, we don't know the model year, overall condition, what attachments and accessories you have with it and the condition of those, engine hours, etc. You'd be better off calling John Deere dealership to have someone come and appraise it.

The short answer is yes. the John Deere 100 series mowers are made in Greeneville Tennessee. this is a highly automated factory employing up to 800 people at the peak of the season. the lawn tractors are shipped directly from the factory to dealers and to big-box stores. the units are identical and all use Briggs and Stratton engines.

I changed the drive belt and idler pully,now only one back wheel works.how do I fix it

If it is the same as the height adjustment for a 160, 170, or 180 there is a knob connected to a rod that slides up and down along a plastic gate with numbers on it. If yours is like this the spring doesn't provide tension to the rod but merely places side pressure to keep it from falling to the right out of the slot. To install the spring take the black plastic gate with the numbers on it off the mower (it's held with a screw at the top and a tab at the bottom). Next place the short end of the spring (there is a longer and shorter end to it) in the hole in the fender right next to the screw hole that holds the black plastic gate in place. Then take the long end of the spring and insert it into the groove at the end of the plastic gate. Keeping the spring in the groove insert the tab into the opening with the rod sticking up through the gate and push the gate into the hole and secure it with the screw. The big thing that throws everyone is that they think the spring holds tension on the rod, it doesn't. The spring just runs the length of the gate and crowds the rod to the side.

I just fixed the brakes on my GX75. I removed the linkage from the transaxle, then I removed the nylock nut that held the brake lever on the transaxle. I had to remove the braket that the brake lever rides in also. On either side if the threaded stud that held the brake lever were a couple of pins that should float freely. Mine did not. soak with PB Blaster or some other penatrating oil. Go do something else for a while. I would strike mine with a hammer and the put vice grips on as tight as they could go, with the hangles pointing out away from the transaxle. I would wiggle up and down and add more oil. They were very, VERY hard to get out, be patient. I chucked them up in my cordless drill and gave them a spin with some sandpaper. Then I greased them up and replaced. I put a big blob of grease on top to both lube the brake lever and keep moisture out. After reassebling everything I tightened the nylock nut until I felt the brakes drag a little, then backed off till the mower rolled freely. They work great now.

here is a diagram that might be helpful: https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/featbene/L120_L130_48_3N1deck.pdf

Put the mower up on a wooden block to get the wheel off the ground. Pry off the plastic bolt cover, remove the bolt with a #12 metric socket I believe, remove the wheel. Unbolt the gear drive from behind the wheel and install it on the replacement wheel.

Which model do you have? Please provide details regarding tractor model and what it does when you try to start it. Is everything fresh? ....fuel, oil, air filter, spark plug, battery? Will it crank over? If so, does it try to fire (start)? Let me know and I'll try to guide you through.

Best Regards,

Bob Lituri

lituri54@aol.com

You must disconnect the rubber coupling between the engine and input shaft to the transmission. There is three bolts that connect the coupling to the engine, they are threaded right into the crankshaft. The remaining three are bolts with nuts that connect the coupling to the drive shaft. You must completely remove the coupling in order to change the alternator/water pump belt. I just changed mine, however I had the radiator out due to head gasket and water pump replacement. I think you should be able to do this from underneath the tractor.

# Raise the seat (as you would to add gas) # Remove the 2 springs that the seat rests on (use a socket with extension).

# Remove the gas line, use needle nose pliers to squeeze open the clamp, then pull the hose (this is under the body panel, access from the rear, on top of the tank)

# Have a helper lift up on the rear of the body panel, reach under the panel and lift the gas tank out.

# Install in reverse order. The body panel is quite flexible...I called a John Deere service shop and this is how they do it. 10 minute job.

Take it to the dealer where you bought your lawn mower from. All you can do from the bottom is spin the engine with a hex bolt. Professional tools are required for this procedure.

take off the rear tire, unbolt the fuel tank and slide out. there are some screws in the top of the pump i believe 3 of them. unplug the electric connector and lift it out of the tank. be careful the tire does not get away from you.

Side to side leveling, measure blade tip at its outermost point to the ground on both right and left side (level surface). Turn right lift link in or out to adjust...1 full turn equals 1/8 inch. Difference side to side should not be more than 1/8 inch. Front to rear leveling, Turn right blade to front/rear position, measure front to ground then turn blade 180 degrees and measure rear to ground. Rear should be 1/8 inch more than front. Adjustment is by turning the yokes on the front of the deck (below draft arm connection) after removing draft arms. Again one full turn equals 1/8 inch. To adjust cutting height, With the mower lifted as high as possible, there is a T shaped screw at the left rear of the tractor which controls the height. Turn this stop counterclockwise as far as possible then lower the deck to the desired cutting height, stop engine and turn the screw clockwise until it stops. Now the cutting height is set.

A model number would tell what deck you have.

Ok I have the service manual in front of me this this one is a doosie.

1 Removal of everything down to the transmission.

1. The tractors console all the sheet metal down to the frame removal.

A) Pull out the battery

B) The steering wheel and shaft will need to be pulled. The easiest way to do this is to pull the bottom cotter pin, under the mower that you can see if you pull the mower deck. It will allow the steering gear to fall off and then the whole steering shaft assembly will come loose. If you want the tractors steering wheel and shaft to come out of the front pedestal, you will have to pull the top cotter pin also. Immediately place it back together outside of the tractor so you don't forget the order.

C) Take of the seat at the bottom of the seat u springs. Its 4 bolts. The two on the RH side will fall out but the other two on the LH side will rest on the gas tank.

D) To pull the metal console remove the 4 bolts at the bottom, disconnect the harness at all points (starter, neutral safety switch, lights, ignition, electric, PTO, starter relay) and also unscrew the buttons for the deck height adjustment and parking brake. You do not have to take the brake and deck levers out just pull the buttons so you can get the console out. If your tractor has an electric fuel pump bolted inside the console (116H) you will have to turn off the fuel petcock on the fuel tank (under the tractor) and disconnect the fuel line running to the top and bottom of the pump.

E) At this point you should only see the large piece of body sheet metal that is under your feet when you're sitting down. The front 4 bolts for the side console hold the front down and the 2 small bolts in the back behind the seat bolts secure the rear. Also unscrew the knob that is between your legs if you're sitting down for the Dump Valve for pushing it by hand. Remove the knob from the Forward Neutral Reverse control lever. The deck raise and lower handle will keep you from completely removing the floor but I just rotate the floor around 180 and let it sit on top of the motor out of the way.

F) Now you should see your hydrostatic transmission. Take notes and pictures of precisely how the drive belt is routed or you will screw it up!!!! (The drive belt is not adjustable so if it has excess play, go to the dealer and get another one JD PN M84075)

Remove the fuel tank

A) Make sure the petcock on the front of the fuel tank is turned off (Screwed in) and remove the fuel tank. Note how 3 of the seat bracket bolts sit on the top of the fuel tank.

Removing the Hydrostatic Transmission and differential

A) First remove the electric PTO unit to allow you to remove the belt. The whole system is not adjustable so this is the way to take the belt off. The only thing holding the pot up is the crankshaft bolt and the electrical connection that runs up to your PTO switch. Be advised that the PTO unit has a hole in it that meets a key post that keeps the PTO unit from spinning and breaking the wires off. Make sure that you realign this when you put it back on! Make notes of how the belt is routed.

B) Block the frame of the tractor up and remove the wheels.

C) There are 3 bolts on the top of the unit that bolt the rear to the top of the tractor frame in that make the points of a triangle. Remove them. Remove the 4 u bolt nuts that hold the differential to the frame on the bottom of the axles and note the little rectangle gussets that go between the frame and the rear. Remove the heat shroud that covers up the differential cooling fan and covers up the belt. Remove the cotter pin and washer that hold the brake rod. Remove the 2 bolts on the bottom of the differential that connect the transmission linkage and remove the rod that comes down from the Forward Neutral Reverse Lever. Be very careful of the cooling fan when you lower it down as it is plastic and very very brittle with age. I'm sure its 100 bucks for a new one at the dealer so watch out.

Hydrostatic transmission.

A) The fill reservoir is left and thread so its Righty Lossie Lefty Tighty

B) The little plug right beside the reservoir is for when your filling it to let the air out) Fill it with Hyguard JD oil or SAE30 oil. Let that cap out and it will get rid of the air.

C) The drain plug is located on the underside of the hydrostatic unit. BOTH THE DRAIN PLUG AND THE AIR RELEASE PLUG ARE 6 POINT HEADS)

Differential

The drain is on the bottom of the pumpkin and has a square head. The fill is on the front top of the pumpkin with a square head (7/16 wrench) slightly below the hydrostatic drain plug. Fill it with SAE 90 gear oil until it runs out of the plug and then quick put the plug back in.

The technical manual for the whole tractor is TM1206

where can I get a john deere 4300 wiring diagram