Axes, forks, nails, your teeth, knives and many more.

The absolute best way -- and really easy way -- to do this is to turn the mower up in a vertical orientation (standing up on its rear end). However, you shouldn't do that without first draining the oil and gas and removing the battery (and mower deck, of course). If you do this, changing the drive belt is super-easy, whereas it's very difficult otherwise. Because of the need to remove battery, gas and oil, I strongly recommend changing the drive belt once per year (at the beginning of the season). That way, you will typically change the belt on a planned basis, not when it breaks unexpectedly in the midst of mowing. Here's the procedure:

1) Remove the mower deck (otherwise known as the "mower housing" -- where the blade resides, in case you didn't know) and deck belt.

2) Remove the bolt and nut attaching the transaxle bracket to the rear of the chassis (also known as the "frame assembly").

3) Drain oil (better if you've run the engine for a few minutes beforehand, of course, to warm the engine -- this will better release gunk in the oil).

4) Drain most of the fuel from the gas tank using a siphon hose. (As long as you get all but 1/2" or so of the fuel out of the bottom of the tank, that should be enough).

5) Remove the seat and the battery.

6) Fully depress the clutch/brake pedal and use a wooden block of appropriate size to lock the clutch/brake pedal into the fully depressed position.

7) On a flat, level surface (concrete garage or carport floor) lift the front of the mower by hand until it rests in a 90-degree vertical position. As you raise the front of the mower up, it's a good idea to place a foot on the transaxle to minimize rear wheel roll until you rest the mower onto its rear end. The mower will actually sit stably and safely in this position. If you're concerned about scratching the paint finish on the rear body of the mower, you can position an old blanket or carpet scrap there first. (With the mower deck and battery removed, the front of the mower is actually pretty lightweight and quite easy to lift by hand.) Without battery and mower deck, most of the weight is at the rear of the mower, so it will sit in a quite stable configuration, resting on the body rear end and the towing point at the lower rear of the chassis.

8) Loosen the four transaxle bolts/nuts that mount the transaxle to the underside of the chassis enough to separate the transaxle from the chassis by 1/2 inch or so. This will serve to provide the spacing necessary to get the drive belt into position between the transaxle pulley and the underside of the chassis.

9) Loosen the bolt attaching the right side of the belt guide to the chassis by one or two turns, then loosen and completely remove the bolt attaching the left side of the belt guide to the chassis.

9) Remove the old drive belt and replace with the new drive belt, making sure to run the new belt appropriately around all the pulleys and belt guides.

10) Reassemble everything in reserve order.

While this seems like a lot to do in order to change the drive belt, it's actually much easier this way than try to do it from underneath. Working on the underside of the mower with it oriented vertically makes the drive belt changeout incredibly easy, and the disassembly and reassembly mentioned here actually requires a lot less time -- and a lot less aggravation -- than trying to change the belt by working from the underside with the mower oriented horizontally. This procedure also gives you a good opportunity to clean, inspect, tighten and lube the mechanical parts under the mower.

I am not sure what the question is exactly. The original Deere 111 was made from 1979 to 1985. It had an 11 HP Briggs engine and came in a gear version all years and a hydro version in later years. For info see the link below:

Briggs and stratton is actually the engine make, it also has a hydrostatic drive to them. It also has a rear wheel drive and has forward variable speeds, the power of the engines are normally 19.5 (hp)

The neutral switch is screwed into a fitting in the top half of the transaxle.

I'm trying to find out the same thing, but am currently only interested in the 48" version to replace what I currently have. Local dealer provided an answer that there are 3 models..2 smaller than the 48". The model number for 48" is bm18365. You can still buy them new for around $1,029.00 plus tax. Am told that you cannot order certain parts for this deck as they have been discontinued. Hope this helps.

Your blades probably need to be sharpened.

probably not cant u figure that out youself

first check all your tires pressure. then park the mower on a level concrete surface and drop the deck to the ground. then reach up under the frame but above the deck in front of each back tire and loosen the big wing nut. do this on both sides. then go to the deck height adjuster and pull the plastic cover off the lower end slots and lower the handle all the way down and lock it in. now all you have to do is tighten the wing nuts under the frame and then pull up the height adjuster handle and you have leveled the deck. one more thing if your deck has gage wheels on it you really need to take them off for this leveling job

remove deck...remove pto clutch and both idler pulleys and u should be able to put on

6 hp Kawasaki engine

Many a tank was replaced under warranty. We used to remove the two bolts beneath the seat and lift the operator deck enough(and block it up with a piece of 2x4) having removed the fuel cap. It should slide out to the rear and left.

throtle setting not high enough, bad spark plug,

Something else to check

Newer mowers come with a safety interlock system that prevents mower engagement when no operator is on the seat or when the parking brake is engaged. Check your seat switch by junping across the terminals, if the blades start then the seat switch is bad.

Could be the pto/drive shaft not connected or engaging, or the belt could be off. Pivot the wheels sideways, drop and remove the deck and remove the cover panels to replace the belt. Belt is on, but, PTO drive does not engage (does not turn-on).

Here's a good solution. Buy/borrow a hydraulic car jack and place it under the front axle frame or the frame of the tractor itself to jack up the front. To jack up the back place the jack under the rear axle frame. Remember to always put blocks under the mower next to the jack (make sure the blocks are the same height as you want the mower off the ground) so that if the jack fails or slips the mower will not fall on you. Keeping Safe is Keeping Alive.

It is supposed to neutralize itself when pressure is taken off the pedals unless it has the fender-mounted cruise control. If so equipped, the brake pedal is supposed to move it to neutral when depressed.

Adjustment is accomplished on the right side on the linkage back near the transsaxle inside the frame.

I believe you have a defective seat switch. The switch is designed to sense if the operator is setting on the tractor when the PTO is engaged. For instance, if you stop moving and step off the tractor with the PTO engaged, it will kill the engine for safety reasons. When the switch is defective or has a disconnected/broken wire, the switch will not send a signal that there is a person on the seat.

The switch is located either on the tractors seat pan under the seat or may be located in the seat itself. It is easy to test the switch with an ohm meter, if the switch tests good, work your way back the wires until termination to look for failures.

If you are a person of light weight, the switch can be adjusted for sensitivity by loosening the lock nut and raising the switch higher on the seat pan or further into the seat.

Other things to check;

1. while setting on the seat with the key on but not running, you may hear a click when you turn the PTO switch on.

2. If the above is true, remove the spark plug wire(s) and attempt to turn the blades by hand, they should move freely.

3. If the above is not true, something is binding the deck/blades which will cause the engine to die.

4. Remove the belt the goes from the PTO to the deck and try turning on the PTO as normal, if the engine dies, it is likely the seat switch. If not, it is likely that the deck is the cause.

Hope this helps.

Remove the deck from the tractor, then remove both blades. They can be sharpened using a grinder. If you don't have a grinder, then there are shops out there that can sharpen them for you (try asking at a shop that sharpens chainsaw chains).

For round fender 110. To remove \ replace drive belt that has slipped off. Remove 2 of the 3 bolts from large pulley on transmission right side. This will allow enough access to slip belt onto pulley. Replace bolts.

https://groundscare.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/groundscare.cfg/php/enduser/fattach_get.php?p_sid=vB8vIw5j&p_li=&p_accessibility=0&p_redirect=&p_tbl=9&p_id=267&p_created=1091535812&p_olh=0 Step by step belt replacement with photos.

try rcpw.com

The age can be determined. Take the serial number into your local dealer and they can look it up for you.