Modification of Old Electrical Work

This is a voltage drop question. To answer this question a voltage has to be stated. The higher the voltage to the circuit becomes the smaller the wire size needed. After a certain voltage point the wire size will remain constant and the voltage drop at the load will become smaller.

For a 15 amp circuit over 200 feet, it is recommended to use a 14-gauge wire to ensure proper voltage drop. This gauge wire will help maintain the integrity of the electrical supply over that distance.

In the absence of better information and without testing it I would say yes, connect the black to the yellow. When you make decisions like this, be very watchful (as you should always be) when turning on the power so you can quickly turn it off if something goes wrong.

No, it is not recommended to replace a 250V 3.15A fuse with a 250V 2.5A fuse. The replacement fuse should have the same voltage rating, but the amperage rating needs to be equal to or higher than the original fuse to ensure proper protection against overcurrent.

Not wanting to state the obvious but the wall switch has to be turned on to supply voltage to the outlet. The lamp will need a three way light bulb in the lamp. A three way bulb uses two filaments of different lengths. One element is used for low brightness, the other filament for medium brightness and the high brightness setting uses both filaments in the bulb. If a single filament ordinary light bulb is used in place of a three way light bulb there will be a position on the three way lamp switch where the bulb will not light. Find the position on the lamp where the bulb will light and leave it there. Use the wall switch to turn the lamp off and on through the controlled receptacle.

A three-way lamp switch requires a dedicated three-way bulb and socket to function on all three settings. If used in an outlet controlled by a wall switch, the voltage may not be appropriate for all settings to operate correctly. Additionally, the wiring configuration in the wall switch setup may not be compatible with the three-way lamp switch.

Trade size 1/2 inch EMT conduit will work just fine.

If conduit is not required, try 14/3 w/ground NM cable. I cannot use the name here but NM cable is that stuff that is used in homes all the time and starts with an R and ends with an x.

Trade size 3/4 inch EMT is about as easy to run as 1/2 so in the business we often run 3/4 because it doesn't sag as much and gives room for additional circuits later.

The cost of wiring a house in conduit would be so high the owner would crap.

That depends more on the current usage of each a/c unit than it does on the number of a/c units.

Check the current draw of each should be listed somewhere on the units. Add up the current draw, and don't exceed 80% of the rating of the breaker.

No, you cannot simply change the wall plug to make a 110 volt outlet support a 240 volt appliance. The voltage requirements of the appliance and the outlet must match for safe operation. You would need to install a dedicated 240 volt outlet and ensure that the wiring and circuitry can handle the higher voltage. It is recommended to consult a licensed electrician for this type of electrical work.

Assuming you are talking about lamp cord wire. The ribbed conductor or the one with the writing on it will be the hot, the other will be the neutral. You can verify this with an electrical meter that can measure ohms. the center of you light socket should be the hot and the shell should be the neutral. Also if your plug is polarized (one wide and one narrow blade) the wide blade is the neutral and the narrow is the hot.

Yes you can. There is a conversion adapter that allows this. We visited a local lighting store Saturday. Unfortunately, the only finish the canopy comes in is white. The track was bronze. Does anyone know of a conversion kit with a bronze canopy.

Voltage rating is a maximum limit of voltage the fuse can handle, and as long as the replacement fuse has equal or higher voltage rating, it can be used. The amperage capacity of a fuse is what needs to be matched to the original fuse, in this case replacing a 2.5 Amp fuse with a 2.5 Amp fuse is important for safety.

You'll need to know what the total current demand is for the circuit, then select the circuit breaker that will take the load without tripping, i.e. its rating will have to be equal to or larger than the demand. There are other factors to consider, but for domestic installations (in the UK) you'd normally install 'B' Type MCBs. If this answer hasn't clarified things, then you need to seek the services of a professional electrician.

If you have a 120/240v service for a home, and you have 4 wires, That is, 2 hots, a neutral and a ground. The National Electrical Code requires a #6 AWG copper equipment ground wire, or a #4 AWG aluminum wire. In addition the wire that connects to the ground rod (that is, the grounding electrode conductor) should be a # AWG copper or #2 AWG aluminum when you are using a 2/0 or 3/0 hot wire. If it is the sole connection to the ground rod, the grounding electrode conductor may be reduced in size to a #6 AWG copper. Keep in mind that your local electrical codes, and other factors unknown, such as, mobile home or commercial applications, may require a more stringent application. Your safety and the safety of others depends on a properly sized and installed grounding system, and should only be installed by an electrician who has a record of experience with this type of installation.

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The CEC states that a #6 bare copper conductor is to be used for the connection between the ground rod or plate and the neutral connection block of the distribution panel for a 200 amp service.

On a 200 amp or any size service the ground wire is easily identified. Look in the distribution panel for the neutral bus bar. This is where the service neutral (white wire) is connected to the distribution panel. There you will see a bare copper wire connected to the same neutral bar. This is the ground wire that is connected to the ground rods out side of the house.

No. The 20 amp breaker is probably protecting a #12 wire. Connecting a 40 amp breaker to the 20 amp #12 wire would seriously overload the #12 wire. This means that if the load increased to a full 40 amps the insulation on the smaller size wire would most likely melt off and the wire could short out.

The answer is likely NO. I assume you're talking about a 60 amp subpanel. To upgrade to a 100 amp, the wire size will need to be increased. (replaced with the correct size) This is not a job for amateurs but should be done by a qualified electrician. The typical size wire employed for a 60 amp supply is # 6 awg, whereas the minimum wire size for 100 amp is # 3 awg (which is larger).

It is not recommended to replace a 30 amp fuse with a 25 amp fuse in a central AC unit. The fuse should match the specified amperage requirements to prevent damage or overheating of the unit. Using a lower amp fuse could potentially lead to electrical issues or failure of the AC unit.

No, the six outlets are not amperage rated to be connected to a 20 amp circuit. A normal 15 amp receptacle can not be protected by a 20 amp breaker. Change the 20 amp breaker to a 15 amp breaker. This combination will pass code regulations.

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In the United States, in a home, you can connect two hard-wired (not cord and plug connected) fans and six receptacles (outlets) to a single 20 amp circuit provided the 2 fans do not draw more than 10 amps together. If they are cord and plug connected, this limitation on the fans does not apply.

In commercial and industrial installations, power to hard-wired equipment is provided on different circuits than receptacles.

You can use the wire rated for 20 amps on a 15 amp receptacle but you can not use a 20 amp fuse on any device rated at 15 amps.

This is a tricky part of the code about receptacle outlets, You can use a 15 amp duplex outlet on a 20 amp circuit. (duplex outlet two devices can plug in) If it is a single outlet then the outlet must be rated 20 amp. NEC table210.21(B)(3).

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A 15 amp duplex receptacle can be wired to a 20 amp rated circuit. This means the breaker OR fuse protecting the circuit can be rated 20 amps if the wire is also rated at 20 amps (12 AWG). --Sparkfighter

Different plugs are designed so that you can't plug an appliance into the wrong voltage. A dryer is usually 220-240 Volts and your standard outlet is 110-120 Volts. You can't do what you suggest.

If you are asking if you can change an 8 Amp Circuit Breaker to 15 Amps, the answer is no. If there is an 8 A breaker in place it is sized to protect the wiring and devices on the circuit. Increasing to 15 A would defeat this protection and could cause a fire or cause a connected device to be destroyed with higher amperage.

In Bangladesh, the live wire is typically red, brown, or black; the neutral wire is typically blue or black; and the ground wire is typically green or green with a yellow stripe. It is important to consult with a local electrician or electric code regulations for accurate information.

Usually a stackable washer and dryer system will need a special outlet. Dryers usually run on a 220 outlet so they will need a special outlet installed where you plan to place your washer and dryer.

Bonding of the neutral or grounded conductor to the earth ground or grounding conductor means that they are mechanically and electrically connected. That is, they have full continuity between each other. In most residential panels, the neutral bar, (where you screw down all of the neutral (white) wires) and the ground bar where you screw down all of the bare copper ground wires are on opposite sides of the panel. They are typically connected mechanically and electrically or bonded with a "crossover" bar which bolts in connecting the two bars. Bonding the neutral and ground is required by the NEC (National Electrical Code) on all panels which have a main disconnect. For example, if you have a typical 200 amp residential panel and it has a main 200 amp breaker or "main disconnect", then the neutral and grounds are to be bonded. If you have a main disconnect panel and the neutral and ground are not bonded, then you should bond them by running an insulated wire between them to connect them. That wire needs to be no less in size than the size of the incoming supply neutral wire in the panel. If you are at all confused, post again and be very specific about your question and someone may be able to answer you.