Modification of Old Electrical Work

Nothing will happen if the neutral and ground wire is shorted. The electrical code makes it mandatory that the neutral and ground are brought together at a common point within the distribution panel. On a 120/240 volt distribution system the ground wire is terminated at the point where the service neutral terminated in the distribution panel. It is usually a double lug the neutral wire connecting into one hole and the ground wire connecting into the other hole. Through this lug assembly there is a machine screw that is inserted through the lug assembly and it screws into the metallic enclosure of the distribution panel. This action bonds the metal enclosure, neutral wire and ground wire bringing the point to a common potential of zero.

In California, the National Electrical Code (NEC) typically requires a minimum of 6 feet and 7 feet clearance in front of and above electrical panels, respectively, for safety and accessibility. However, local regulations and building codes may have specific requirements that vary. It is best to consult with a licensed electrician or the local building department for precise guidelines in your area.

It depends upon whether you mean 240 volts at the first end or the second end.

Assuming 240 volts at the source, and allowing no more than a 3 percent voltage drop over the 200-foot circuit, at 100 percent load of 100 amps, you would need a #1 copper conductor. You would only have 233 volts at the far end at full load.

Note that if the ampacity of conductors supplying your connection point is not sufficient, the "supplied voltage" on your new extension could be substantially diminished under load. For instance, if you are already 100 feet from the original 240 volts, your extension would have an effective circuit distance of 300 feet, requiring #2/0 conductors.

To calculate the maximum amps for a wire, you will need to consider factors such as the wire gauge (thickness), the material of the wire, and the ambient temperature. You can use a wire ampacity chart or an online calculator to determine the maximum amperage the wire can safely carry without overheating. It is important to follow the guidelines to prevent electrical hazards.

Never heard of a power tool that runs on 100 volts AC. It would have to be 108 to 120 volts or 220 to 240 volts. It will work on the 120 volt outlet if is it 60 hertz in the U.S. or 50 Hrtz in some other countries. If it is 50 Hrtz then do not use it in the U.S. without a converter.

No, it is not recommended to have a circuit breaker with a higher amperage rating than the device it is protecting. In this case, you should use a 30 amp circuit breaker for a 30 amp air conditioner to ensure proper protection from overcurrent.

Connect the black wire to the smooth wire. The ribbed wire is the identifier for the neutral wire which is connected to the shell of the lamp holder. The smooth wire connects to the center pin in the lamp holder. Using this configuration the hot wire is kept away from your fingers as far as possible when changing out the light bulb.

The key is that you still only have 100 Amps to work with. You could have multiple small panels if needed for convenience, but the total capacity for constant load should not exceed 80% of maximum or 80 Amps. Also make sure neutral and ground only bonded together at main panel.

For carrying 100 amps underground, typically a 2-gauge copper wire or a 1/0-gauge aluminum wire would be suitable. It's important to consult with a licensed electrician to ensure the correct wire size based on distance, voltage drop, and local electrical codes.

From your description it seems the white wire is a neutral and may be required for the controls. Typically the black and red wires provide 240v power to the heater. I've never seen a water heater with a 4th wire but ranges very often have a neutral because accessories such as lights and the timer run only on 120v.

It may also be that you can connect the water heater to more than one voltage. I wouldn't know without looking at it or the paperwork. You need a competent electrician to look at it for you.

To know Amps you need to know the voltage and power factor. For a pure resistive load and a normal house voltage of 120 VAC then you just divide wattage by voltage to get Amps. Power factor is a maximum of one for resistive load and decreases with various inductive loads that cause current and voltage to be out of phase.

Example 1: 1600 watts / 120 volts = 13.3 amps

Example 2: 15 amp outlet x 120 volts = 1800 watts

Best guess in your case is 13.3 Amps at 120 Volts assuming a load like an electric heater or incandescent bulbs.

The ground wire on a 3-wire dryer plug is typically the middle pin on the plug. It is important to ensure that the plug is installed correctly to prevent electric shock and ensure the safe operation of the dryer. If you are unsure, it is recommended to consult a qualified electrician.

It is not recommended. Light fixtures have a specific wattage rating for safety reasons and should not be overloaded. The internal wiring in a fixture is the bare minimum required to make the lamp light and is not rated for the higher wattage. The device that screws into the lampholder does not have a grounding point so the equipment that you plug into it will not be grounded. Wall recepticals have a rating of 15 amp and are designed to take the current. Use it instead.

What size is the AC? Look at the power consumption rating of the AC unit; if it pulls anything close to 15 amps, a new breaker will not solve your problem.

There should be an information panel that shows the current draw of the AC. If the AC pulls more than the breaker can handle, you need to re-wire the outlet for the AC. You can't safely just replace the breaker with a larger one since that would result in a fire hazard.

It is generally safe to use a 250 volt fuse in a 240 volt air conditioner unit. To properly install the fuse, make sure the power to the unit is turned off, remove the old fuse, replace it with the new one of the same size and rating, and then turn the power back on. Verify that the unit is functioning properly before regular use.

No, it would not be safe because 250v is too high for that breaker.

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In North America all household breakers are rated at 120/240 volts. A 250 volt 15 amp breaker would would be a two pole breaker and take up two slots in the distribution panel. This can be pulled out and replaced with two separate 15 amp breakers or one 15 amp breaker and a slot panel filler to cover the second slot.

Old black, green, and red wires are typically used for electrical wiring and connections in buildings. Black wires are commonly used for power feeds, green wires for grounding, and red wires for specific applications such as three-way switches or lighting circuits. It's important to check the local electrical codes and guidelines when working with these wires.

That would need a busbar, an aluminium one with a cross section of 1 cm by 9 cm (or larger).

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A 600 MCM copper conductor with an insulation factor of 90 degrees C is rated at 475 amps.

A 300 MCM copper conductor with an insulation factor of 90 degrees C is rated at 320 amps.

A 3/0 copper conductor with an insulation factor of 90 degrees C is rated at 225 amps.

These size wires can be installed in parallel 600 MCM, tripled for 300 MCM or grouped in four 3/0 wires groups to achieve the amperage required.

Special parallel, three barrel and four barrel lugs have to be used to make the connection to the required load.

You would need to change a circuits voltage if your adding a load that requires 220 when the present circuit supplies 120.

If you need to do so it's pretty simple! First purchase a double pole breaker at the proper amp rating. Next find the breaker in the panel that supplies power to the circuit you wish to change to 220. Turn off the breaker and pull it out. Find the neutral for that circuit. Then double check and make sure it's the right neutral. Then check one more time. Now take the neutral and the hot wire for that circuit and connect them to the double pole breaker. install the breaker into the panel and turn it on. If you connected the right neutral you'll have 220 on that circuit. If you didn't you'll know because you'll trip the breaker.

I assume you mean 125v, 12 amps and 1625 watts max extension cord. This is not technically a proper installation but it should work. The concern is how long are you running the extension cord and how and where are you making the splices. There are a lot of issues at hand that cannot be answered without more information.

Electricians generally dislike extension cords. Usually the conductors are small enough they will MELT AND BURN at a current flow that will NOT TRIP THE BREAKER. You should consider it temporary at best. It should not be forgotten nor hidden in a wall or ceiling under ANY circumstances.

Black to Black - Black from the ceiling is a hot wire and should be switched Red to Blue - Red wire is another hot wire and should also be switched White to White - White from the ceiling is the neutral and should not be switched. Your wall should have two switches, one will control the red wire, one will control the black wire. If you wire your fan as above, one switch will turn the fan on, the other will turn the light of the fan on.

If you have corrosion problem then you also have a moisture problem. Clean up the corrosion problem first before the resistance of the connection causes heat and wire burn off. Once cleaned, there is a product on the market that can be sprayed on to the connection which will create a barrier to the moisture laden air. Once this barrier is in place the problem should be resolved. An effort should be made to remove the moisture from the air, maybe with a dehumidifier.

No, it is not recommended to use 10 gauge wire with a 15 amp receptacle. The wire gauge should match the amperage rating of the receptacle to ensure safe and proper functioning of the electrical system. In this case, a 15 amp receptacle should be used with 14 gauge wire.