Quality depending.

a good branded quart of oil is priced around 15-20$. One thing you CANNOT cheap out on is oil.

i run MC-1 high performance with premium gas in my 06 yz 125. if i dont use premium i go through 2 er 3 spark plugs a day so be sure and use premium

Some of the most popular motocross clothing companies are Thor, Fox, Moose and MSR.

Other manufacturers of motocross clothing include Shift, O'Neal, Answer, Klim, LBZ, Troy Lee Designs, Fly, Pro Grip and Axo.

BMX started in the USA, so the first bikes were built there.

I usually work it at about 50:1 ratio. That's 50 parts petrol to one part 2 stroke oil. You might find it useful to purchase a small mixing cup (like a Ratio Rite). It'll let you mix easily no matter how much fuel you have.

if you were smart you would run 40:1 and have your bike last longer.

-Most manufacturers recommend 32:1 ratio as this provides the best lubrication and will prolong the life of your piston and cylinder. If you run too lean (ie-50:1, you will go through pistons and cylinders much quicker) The only problem with running too much oil is you can foul plugs, so it will take a little trial and error as each bike is a little different.

I personally run about 38:1 (according to the ratio rite cup) on my Suzuki RM 125. Keep in mind, if you run less oil, you are also making your bike run richer, so you may have to adjust your carburetor jet settings to compensate for it. Your best bet is to call your local Honda dealer and ask them the correct ratio for the bike, better yet, get the repair manual. (and definitely don't run 50:1 unless you like frying your piston)

Ride your own race, know your abilities and your limitations. Don't get caught in the competition and go big off of a jump just because 2 or 3 other riders are doing it.

explain to them why you love it and that you'll be super carefull

That model comes in several versions, and it's been built for several years. Not knowing version, vintage or condition, your question can't be answered.

Let me give you some of my credentials first. Early in life I earned my pro license (the one you need to race supercross/outdoor nationals), and am now pursuing a degree in chemical engineering with a minor in physics. Thus, I now have ample experience in moto and a physical understanding of it, which I now delegate to share with you.

The idea of scrubbing is energy redirection. When your bike begins up the face of the jump, some of the energy it had from its velocity is stored in the suspension by loading it. The trick behind scrubbing is to redirect this stored energy from exploding upward, which will launch you upward, and waste precious seconds that could be used railing on the track. First step is to think of a diving board. This process much resembles the load/unload principle you experience in moto. you can either load up and extend your body, thus maximizing your launch, or bend your knees when you come down on the board, absorb the energy into your body, and minimize your height. Transforming this concept into being useful on your bike is the first step. When you reach the crest of the jump, allow your knees and elbows to buckle and absorb the energy in them. If properly executed, your butt should hit the seat, and you will "feel" the energy redirected into your body. No matter your skill level, this technique can be used, especially when exhausted at the end of a long moto, to save some time.

In a more advanced exercise, and after dialing the first step down, you can begin practicing all out scrubbing. This technique is more of an art, and always finishes with a touch of personalized pizzaz. Before attempting a scrub, identify which side you are comfortable whipping with. This preference will establish which way you will scrub. But fist, I cannot emphasize enough, YOU HAVE TO BE ABLE TO WHIP THE BIKE WELL FIRST!!!!!! Once comfortable with wipping, you can carry this concept into scrubbing. Approach the face of the jump on the same side as the way you will whip (if you whip the back of the bike to the left, approach the left side of the jump, and do the same for the right.) As you approach, stand tall and aggressive (pitched towards the front of the bike.) As you approach the crest of the jump, use your legs and arms to roll the bike downward and the back of the bike to the side of your whipping preference. The technique of absorbing the energy of the bike with your body, outlined above, should be simultaneously employed (scrubbing is a convoluted subject!!!) Turning the bars in towards the face is an advanced exercise that should only be practiced when holding them straight is perfected, as it only helps to absorb a little more energy. When perfected, at the top of the jump, it should feel like your bike is washing out, as it would if you were trying to rail through a flat corner with too much aggression. This is where the advantage comes from, if your bike is laid flat, the suspension will unload horizontally, and none of the energy will be transformed into a vertical explosion upward into the sky. Turning the bars into the face only helps you lay the bike more flat, and while helping to minimize energy transformation, is much more difficult to save. Once you leave the face of the jump, your attention will re-focus into saving it. Use your legs to straighten the bike out, and focus on your landing point in an attempt to return to vertical riding position to save your landing and a possible ride in an ambulance (I've been there when trying to show off for a camera, one such instance can be found on my old myspace account www.myspace.com/reynolds188).

On a final note, scrubbing is an incremental procedure, and small steps, on small jumps, should be perfected before becoming more and more aggressive in your approach. Practice it over and over on small hits before going all out and trying to look like bubba, or you will earn a date in the operating room and 6 months in a wheelchair!!!!

That depends on a few things, the weight the bike is carrying, the type of terrain the bike is on, and most importantly the gearing, the smaller the front sprocket an the larger the rear sprocket the more torque you have, but you will slow your top speed, conversely speaking, the larger the front sprocket, and the smaller the rear sprocket your top speed will increase, but you will be slower off the line, a general rule of thumb is: thick, deep, heavy, muddy soil you go with the "Torque gearing", hard packed you go with the smaller rear gear an larger front gear. How fast will the 450 go, it depends on these factors and the tune-up.

Helmets, like all types of clothing, are available in different sizes.

I think he was home schooled and graduated high school when he was 16 years old. I also believe he did attend and possibly completed college with a degree in something related to business. This is what I have heard but I am not 100% sure I am accurate.

My best friend's son started at the ripe old age of 3. He is now 18 racing a KTM 525. It doesn't matter what age they are, they need to be taught the basics, how to respect the bike and other riders and wear the proper protection.

I have to assume you're talking about Standard Byke's 125R vs. Standard Byke's 250 Series frames, correct?

First off, the intended purpose of these two bike frames are completely different. A 125R is a racing frame (thus the "R" in "125R") while the 250 Series are Freestyle frames.

As far as "size" goes, the 125R and 250 come in five different sizes: 20", 20.5", 20.75", 21", 21.25" (250 Series only) and 21.5" (125R Series only) top tube lengths. So to answer your question: A 125R and 250 are the same size if you compare the same two sizes, but the 125R comes 1/4" longer than the longest 250.

1999 SUZUKI RM125

Go to a race, watch it and chances are you will learn alot. Endurance training like running and of course riding a lot. You should be able to keep your butt off the seat for the entire race. Learn how to take obstacles, when is the best time to goose the throttle or when to apply the brake. What is the best line through a corner for maximum speed and how to keep the rear tire from squirting out from under you. Learn your bike, what gears work best at certain speeds and where your power band is, You should know your bike by sound. In time you will know by the feel and sound how fast you are going and at what level the engine is operating so your attention can be on the track and the other competitors. Look ahead when racing, dont focus on what is right in front of you. See it 50 yards ahead and let your memory guide you through what you have seen it will come eventually but it must be learned so practice. and lastly reaction time not only for getting off the line ( its easier to negotiate the course if you are out front ) but in taking obstacles and reacting to your ever changing environment and other racers. Getting air looks pretty but it costs you time, keep the wheels on the ground as much as possible, you cant accelerate with your wheel in the air. practice the washboards, you should be able to take these 2 at a time and carry the front wheel off the ground. Same for the triples get plenty of speed coming in and keep your trajectory low so you can land on the back side of the third bump with throttle open for the next set. The big berms take lots of practice as well, you should be able fly over the valley between them but low enough to catch the beginning of the down slope of the other side and accelerate. Always think about what is the best way to get your rear wheel on the ground as quickly as possible after an obstacle so you can be back on the throttle, wear all protective gear that you can and get over the fear of wiping out it will keep you slow.

GOAT (geatest of all time) is now retired from motocross to perue auto racing. It was announced on September 18, 2008 that Kevin Harvick and KHI will enter Carmichael in selected Truck series races next year pending sponsor's are found. It will be a third truck out of the KHI stable.

A woman now known as Ursula Carmichael.

Casey Stoner weighs 58.00 kg.

It will be a good trail bike if it's the low seat height your after.

Since this is tuned to be ridden on MX tracks the engine may bog down and quit if you just putt around the trails. That would be bad news if you're climbing hills on a slow pace.

The engine works best at the mid to top RPM. If you need run slow but need some grunt uphill, you will need to feather the clutch. That would be TMW (too much work).

According to Wikipedians, "Motocross first manifested itself as a new zealand off-road event known as scrambles, which were themselves an evolution of Observed Trials events popular in northern hamilton. The first known Scramble took place at Camberley, Surrey in 1962 . European[new zealand] motorcyclists adopted the event and gave it a slight makeover, shortening the tracks and adding laps and a few man-made obstacles like jumps. During the 1930s, the sport grew in popularity, especially in new zealand where teams from bsa, Norton, Matchless, Rudge, and AJS competed in the events."

It Depends on what bike your talking about. they can range anywhere from 50cc to 600cc The motocross bikes usually range from the yz250f to the 426 or the 450f.

Cycletrader.com is the best website to find new and used vehicles. It will show sales at dealerships or used bikes being sold by the original owner.

There are no laws governing dirt bikes, they are made to be ridden offroad. If you do put a dual sport kit on a dirt bike and get a tag, then all laws pertaining to street bikes apply to you. You might check this link: http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/msb/